Altenator Upgrade

I have a 3g from the local parts house with a lifetime warranty. If it ever goes bad, all I need to do is bring it back with the reciept. No waiting for the UPS man to come, no hassle in packing it up & sending it back.

Here's websites with pictures of the 3G installation...

See http://www.geocities.com/smithmonte/Auto/3G_130A_Alternator_Upgrade.htm - all the tech data you could ever want to know
OR
http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/alternator.html - excellent pictures of installation

Use these sites for information on the right way to do the wiring. Some people will tell you that you can skip the wiring upgrade, but it will catch up with you sooner or later. A fire in the wiring harness is ugly and expensive.

Under no circumstances connect the two 10 gauge black/white wires to the 3G alternator. If the fuse blows in the 4 gauge wire, the two 10 gauge wires will be overloaded to the point of catching fire and burning up the wiring harness.

The secondary power ground is between the back of the intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. It is often missing or loose. It supplies ground for the alternator, A/C compressor clutch and other electrical accessories such as the gauges. Any car that has a 3G alternator needs a 4 gauge ground wire running from the block to the chassis ground where the battery pigtail ground connects.

Electric fan = 3G alternator if you want long life & reliability from your car.
The electric fan saves some HP. The stock fan's parasitic drag runs from 7-12 HP depending on who you talk to. The electric fan uses about 1/2 HP of power from the electrical system.

Figure this:
Ignition system & computer = 12 amps
Fuel pump = 12 amps
Exterior lights = 15 amps
Fan (heater or A/C) = 15 amps (can run between 5-25 amps depending on setting)
Radio & instruments = 10 amps
Wipers = 10 amps

That's grand total of 74 amps from a 65 amp alternator. Talk about overdrawn at the bank!

See WWW.partsexpress.com for the fuse & fuse holder.
Fuse @ $3.90 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=071-952

Fuseholder @ $5.80 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=263-630

4 gauge black wire @ $1.25 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=100-196

4 gauge red wire @ $1.25 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=100-194

4 gauge ring crimp terminals (package of 5) $3.25. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=095-584

Pre-fab 4 gauge cables with lugs already on the ends are available in most auto parts stores. Look for the starter switch to starter cables.

i used the pa performance power wire, but i bought the alternator at auto zone simply because i did not want to have to deal with sending the alt any where if it ever failed.....but pa makes pretty good stuff........the wire i bought was quality......

I would try one from a local parts house as well. Just in case you have to return it.

I would look here for the supporting stuff to go along with it.

http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=67

Bought a 3g from my store the other day - $175 total, including connections and cables n' such, minus the core deposit, with a lifetime warranty. When you figure in the cost of shipping and such for most eBay 3g alts, you may as well just go with the standard parts store ones ... unless you're all hardcore and really NEED a 200-amp 3g for some reason.

Two hours' worth of wrenching, grinding, and being totally anal about clean grounds and perfectly-routed wiring, and I now have a completely happy charging system. No more dimming headlights, huzzah!

Got my powermaster about a year ago... self exciting bites! But the installation was easy (just one wire! )