Alternator - 130 amp +++

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RedLine01

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Aug 4, 2003

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MaComb Twp., MI.

Jul 12, 2004

#1

• Jul 12, 2004

• #1

Hey guys, My car sometimes dies at idle ever since i installed the electric water pump. My alternator currently has a underdrive pully on it. Im thinking that I need a 103 amp alternator (105 amp is stock). What do you think? Anyone know where i can get a good price on a chrome alternator???
Thanks

 

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cltgt

Founding Member

Apr 15, 2001

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Geneva, Fl.

Jul 12, 2004

#2

• Jul 12, 2004

• #2

I thought 130 was stock?

 

Infinity

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Apr 7, 2002

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Charlestown, IN

Jul 12, 2004

#3

• Jul 12, 2004

• #3

Sounds to me like you'd be better spent getting your idle bumped up a couple hundred RPM's, or checking into WHY the car is dying. Is the stereo crackling/lights dimming? Is it slowly dying, or all at once? I really don't feel it's the alternator, else you wouldn't get it restarted after a few tries. The battery would be dead.

 

C

cltgt

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Apr 15, 2001

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Geneva, Fl.

Jul 12, 2004

#4

• Jul 12, 2004

• #4

put a digital meter across the battery when the car is idling to see what your voltage is. It should stay over 13volts.

 

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big T

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Feb 25, 2004

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Hawaii, oahu

Jul 12, 2004

#5

• Jul 12, 2004

• #5

I thought 130 was stock too!

 

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RedLine01

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Aug 4, 2003

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MaComb Twp., MI.

Jul 13, 2004

#6

• Jul 13, 2004

• #6

Thanks guys, that is a typo up there on the 103 amp it should have read 130amp. Every auto parts store Ive talked to says that 105 amp is stock. I will check the voltage at the battery and the alternator today sometime with a digital fluke. I have checked it before and If i remember right it was 12 volts not 13....I never even thought about bumping the rpm's.
Infinity02Zinc - Thte car just dies, ie. The other day I was going thru a DQ drive through and after waiting in line a long time at idle I was next up to the window, I went to press the window button to bring the window down all the way and she flatlined. Once this happens the car will not restart for about five minutes of just sitting there. If i try to crank it over and over it will not start but if I immediatly wait like acopule of minutes 4-5, without touching the ignition, it will fire right back up. Of course this always happens at the worst possible times. This has happened several times.
Im not sure if it is coincidental but very shortly after i put this pump in the cabin blower started cutting out now and then. After two weeks of that, the fan will not work at all now- nothing. I have checked all the fuses, relays, and checked for power going into the blower motor itself (0 volts with the selector switched to on). If anyone can help me I would really appeciate it.
Thanks
Don

 

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cltgt

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Apr 15, 2001

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Geneva, Fl.

Jul 13, 2004

#7

• Jul 13, 2004

• #7

you may want to replace the pump. could be "open" drawing too much current. Just a thought.

 

C

cltgt

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Geneva, Fl.

Jul 13, 2004

#8

• Jul 13, 2004

• #8

you may also want to put the stock alternator pulley back on.

 

Infinity

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Apr 7, 2002

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Charlestown, IN

Jul 13, 2004

#9

• Jul 13, 2004

• #9

I still don't think it's simply the alternator. It almost sounds like a short somewhere, or maybe something heating up and losing contact (possibly ground). I mean, I'm running UD pullies and 3900 watts RMS for the stereo on factory charging no problem. Unless that pump is drawing a continuous 100 amps, the problem lies elsewhere.
Load test the battery! Could be a bad cell and the voltage is slowly dropping. If it were the alternator, then when it died, waiting would NOT allow you to start the car. It almost has to be temperature related. After all, if the alt was bad, then what would charge the battery to allow it to start at all?

 

Q's Stang

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Jun 28, 2004

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Indianapolis

Jul 13, 2004

#10

• Jul 13, 2004

• #10

3900 watts RMS on the system?! wow thats a lot of watts...what kinda system do you have?!

 

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RedLine01

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Aug 4, 2003

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MaComb Twp., MI.

Jul 14, 2004

#11

• Jul 14, 2004

• #11

Thanks to both of you for your replies and knowledge. I will take the battery today to get a load test done and check other possibilities tonight and report back tomorrow.

 

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RedLine01

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MaComb Twp., MI.

Jul 19, 2004

#12

• Jul 19, 2004

• #12

Hey fellas, Well after hours and hours off looking for something that I wasn't sure of I found the problems. First and foremost the problem with the car cut out at the wrong times turned out to be fuse 34 in the fuse panel. The wire that comes from the top side of the fuse block was very loose to the fuse and at times would break the connection and shut the car off. This fuse controls the anti-theft package on the car and someother things (gauges, etc.) as well. The problem with the inside blower motor and climate controls turned out to be a loose fuse in its socket. Although the load test on the battery came out good I didn't believe it and went ahead and bought a new one anyway. When that didn't do anything for me I convinced myself it was the alternator and bought one of those toooo. Well anyway I just happy I found the problem ------ I Hope....
Thanks
Don

 

C

cltgt

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Apr 15, 2001

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Geneva, Fl.

Jul 19, 2004

#13

• Jul 19, 2004

• #13

good to hear she's running again...

 

Infinity

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Apr 7, 2002

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Charlestown, IN

Jul 19, 2004

#14

• Jul 19, 2004

• #14

Q's Stang said:

3900 watts RMS on the system?! wow thats a lot of watts...what kinda system do you have?!

Click to expand...

Depends on what day it is. I change my stereo more than my underwear.