alternator and low charge

6

67rcks

Member

Feb 20, 2008

373

0

17

Aug 30, 2011

#1

• Aug 30, 2011

• #1

I took 55A 1G Motorcraft to a repair shop because it makes only 13.5V charge at no load, and drops to 12.5V or so at load (all lights, gauges = 13A + el.fan =10A+charging system), and eventually (40 miles ride) discharges the battery. They tested diodes and said alternator should work. I am wondering what else, except bad diodes, could cause the alternator is unable to produce full 14V charge?

 

Tim65GT

Active Member

Feb 24, 2004

1,149

2

39

West Texas

Aug 30, 2011

#2

• Aug 30, 2011

• #2

Are you checking voltage at the battery? Check at the alternator. It could be a bad connection or weak wiring.

 

6

67rcks

Member

Feb 20, 2008

373

0

17

Sep 5, 2011

#3

• Sep 5, 2011

• #3

Thank you for advice; I had just too many accesories and fried the alternator, not realizing it is designed for so low current at cruising rpm.

I am going with the 3g. I is true that 3g with 7" eye-to-eye distance, same as 1g, won't fit the classic (1967) and I need 3g with 8.25" distance? I read like 10 guides and still am not sure on this.

 

hhead

Founding Member

Jul 13, 2002

280

0

17

so cal

Sep 5, 2011

#4

• Sep 5, 2011

• #4

You could always rebuild your original with a larger amp kit.
Ford Alternator upgrade & repair kits, Quick Start Rebuild Kits

 

T

thinblueline65

New Member

Feb 6, 2011

10

0

2

Whitsett, NC

Sep 7, 2011

#5

• Sep 7, 2011

• #5

Disconnect the regulator and get a 1 wire GM. Easier and cheaper in the long run.

 

6

67rcks

Member

Feb 20, 2008

373

0

17

Sep 8, 2011

#6

• Sep 8, 2011

• #6

I have already bought rebuild 3g motorcraft for 60 US off ebay. Rockauto sells the same one for 110+50 core charge (RA one of cheapest autoparts stores). The ebay guy swore there are no compromises on the quality and they are just cheaper.
Not sure what GM you mean. try to walk in to the autozone and tell the guy I want a 1-wire GM alternator, what he politely tells you.