I converted from EFI <-> Carb, and am wanting to get a higher amp alternator. I know about the 3G install, but didnt know if i have to have the same wiring harness or anything to put a higher amp alt on a car with no computer. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Alternator choices for a carb'd setup
- Thread starter Busted07
- Start date
Modular2v said:
i just didnt know if that would let everything run. i want an elec. fan, and ill have a radio & small amp. i just didnt want it dying out from too much pull. i still have the stock one, but im asking questions ahead of time, so i dont kick myself in the rear (hindsight) for not asking.
The 3G upgrade is independant of the type of fuel system. There are no computer sensors for the alternator circuity.
Here's websites with pictures of the 3G installation...
See http://www.geocities.com/smithmonte/Auto/3G_130A_Alternator_Upgrade.htm - all the tech data you could ever want to know
OR
http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/alternator.html - excellent pictures of installation
Use these sites for information on the right way to do the wiring. Some people will tell you that you can skip the wiring upgrade, but it will catch up with you sooner or later. A fire in the wiring harness is ugly and expensive.
Under no circumstances connect the two 10 gauge black/white wires to the 3G alternator. If the fuse blows in the 4 gauge wire, the two 10 gauge wires will be overloaded to the point of catching fire and burning up the wiring harness.
The secondary power ground is between the back of the intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. It is often missing or loose. It supplies ground for the alternator, A/C compressor clutch and other electrical accessories such as the gauges. Any car that has a 3G alternator needs a 4 gauge ground wire running from the block to the chassis ground where the battery pigtail ground connects.
Electric fan = 3G alternator if you want long life & reliability from your car.
The electric fan saves some HP. The stock fan's parasitic drag runs from 7-12 HP depending on who you talk to. The electric fan uses about 1/2 HP of power from the electrical system.
Figure this:
Ignition system & computer = 12 amps
Fuel pump = 12 amps
Exterior lights = 15 amps
Fan (heater or A/C) = 15 amps (can run between 5-25 amps depending on setting)
Radio & instruments = 10 amps
Wipers = 10 amps
That's grand total of 74 amps from a 65 amp alternator. Talk about overdrawn at the bank!
See WWW.partsexpress.com for the fuse & fuse holder.
Fuse @ $3.90 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=071-952
Fuseholder @ $5.80 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=263-630
4 gauge black wire @ $1.25 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=100-196
4 gauge red wire @ $1.25 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=100-194
4 gauge ring crimp terminals (package of 5) $3.25. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=095-584
Pre-fab 4 gauge cables with lugs already on the ends are available in most auto parts stores. Look for the starter switch to starter cables.
Here's websites with pictures of the 3G installation...
See http://www.geocities.com/smithmonte/Auto/3G_130A_Alternator_Upgrade.htm - all the tech data you could ever want to know
OR
http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/alternator.html - excellent pictures of installation
Use these sites for information on the right way to do the wiring. Some people will tell you that you can skip the wiring upgrade, but it will catch up with you sooner or later. A fire in the wiring harness is ugly and expensive.
Under no circumstances connect the two 10 gauge black/white wires to the 3G alternator. If the fuse blows in the 4 gauge wire, the two 10 gauge wires will be overloaded to the point of catching fire and burning up the wiring harness.
The secondary power ground is between the back of the intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. It is often missing or loose. It supplies ground for the alternator, A/C compressor clutch and other electrical accessories such as the gauges. Any car that has a 3G alternator needs a 4 gauge ground wire running from the block to the chassis ground where the battery pigtail ground connects.
Electric fan = 3G alternator if you want long life & reliability from your car.
The electric fan saves some HP. The stock fan's parasitic drag runs from 7-12 HP depending on who you talk to. The electric fan uses about 1/2 HP of power from the electrical system.
Figure this:
Ignition system & computer = 12 amps
Fuel pump = 12 amps
Exterior lights = 15 amps
Fan (heater or A/C) = 15 amps (can run between 5-25 amps depending on setting)
Radio & instruments = 10 amps
Wipers = 10 amps
That's grand total of 74 amps from a 65 amp alternator. Talk about overdrawn at the bank!
See WWW.partsexpress.com for the fuse & fuse holder.
Fuse @ $3.90 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=071-952
Fuseholder @ $5.80 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=263-630
4 gauge black wire @ $1.25 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=100-196
4 gauge red wire @ $1.25 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=100-194
4 gauge ring crimp terminals (package of 5) $3.25. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=095-584
Pre-fab 4 gauge cables with lugs already on the ends are available in most auto parts stores. Look for the starter switch to starter cables.
bluevenom867
I will have images of molesting stuffed animals in
Dude,the 3G is enough...
We're runing a electric fan,electric water pump,big electric fuel pump,full MSD ingintion with a bonuch of boxes,and all the other usual stuff.
Then when we're racing,it also runs an additonal fuel pump and six soliniods.
Keeps it at 13-14 volts.
We're runing a electric fan,electric water pump,big electric fuel pump,full MSD ingintion with a bonuch of boxes,and all the other usual stuff.
Then when we're racing,it also runs an additonal fuel pump and six soliniods.
Keeps it at 13-14 volts.
408stroker5.0
The world would be a better place if all males jus
I converted from EFI to Carb As Well.... I found that the Stock Alt. was not enough when I had the car running with the dual fans going. Of course the big Aeromotive fuel pump, Crane Ignition, etc. etc. didn't help either. Anyhow I took a tottaly different approach on my set up. I went with a 1 wire 140 Amp Powermaster Alternator and used the bracket system off of a 84 (It was around that Year)Crown Vic/LTD Ex Police Car. Great/light setup and allowed me to run a short belt at the same time. The only problem is these bracket setup's are kind of hard to find...they can usually be found on early 80's Crown Vic's/LTD with a 302 or 351.
ExplodingGopher
New Member
My stock alternator keeps my fans, fuel pump, and accessories on my 466 fox running at 14 volts no problem. I agree without the computer, theres more voltage available
408stroker5.0 said:
Sweet! i was looking at that powermaster Alt. last night in the new summit, and was wanting something with simple / clean wiring. Ill have an elec fan, MSD 6AL, fuel pump, radio, gauges etc.... so that 140 should be more than enough. Ill probably PM ya about it later on if thats ok with you
408stroker5.0
The world would be a better place if all males jus
FarBeyondDriven said:
No Problem...I'll try and post a pic of the setup on the weekend if I have some spare time.
Shon
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