Alternator? Connection? Battery?

R

rseifert

Founding Member

Mar 13, 2001

200

0

0

Lung Gyland, NY

Jan 22, 2006

#1

• Jan 22, 2006

• #1

For a while my voltmeter has been goin up and down. Every once and a while i'll notice my battery idiot light on and my voltmeter would be down below charging. At night I would notice because my head lights would dim. Without faile though, it would always go back up a few seconds later. It has dont this for a couple years and i never did anything because my battery never died. Finally the other night it went below charge and never went back up and it died. My alternator is a crap rebuilt job, but it's less than 2 years old. My battery is pretty new too and I dont think it's that because I recharged it and it seems to be holding it. Does it sound like a connection or a ground maybe? What should I do?

 

mbsprinks281

Member

Apr 19, 2005

58

2

9

Lockport, IL

Jan 22, 2006

#2

• Jan 22, 2006

• #2

I would say if the car died its an alternator problem. Look up the alternator conversion where you use a 94 or newer alternator.

 

bill302

Active Member

Nov 2, 2005

2,131

1

46

alabama,gadsden

Jan 22, 2006

#3

• Jan 22, 2006

• #3

go to advance auto parts, oreillys or autozone and have them test charging system and let them tell you whats wrong, you can even use two or all of above for a second or third opinion.and compare prices and brands of batterys,voltage regulator or alternator whatever needs replacing while there and go with the best product at the best price. and if you go to autozone have them check for cel codes its free to, and good to test for preventive maintenance measures or good piece of mind. cel light does'nt always illuminate in some instances.

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

31,179

34

129

Jan 22, 2006

#4

• Jan 22, 2006

• #4

Simply stated, if you see above 12.6 volts (using a real voltmeter), you are at least breaking even. So if at idle with no load, you dont have that, then you are sunk.

Bill has the right idea with the free testing. Then if something tests bad on the in-car test, once you remove the component, have it bench tested inside the store.

Good luck.

 

F

fiveohGT

New Member

Jun 22, 2004

353

1

0

Fairfax Virginia

Jan 22, 2006

#5

• Jan 22, 2006

• #5

Make sure the grounds for the block are solid.

 

R

rseifert

Founding Member

Mar 13, 2001

200

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0

Lung Gyland, NY

Jan 23, 2006

#6

• Jan 23, 2006

• #6

Thanks guys.
I would love to take it to Autozone for the free test rather than my usual rip off mechanic, but the closest one is like 15-20 minutes away and I'm not sure if the car will make it there. If I drive w/ no lights, radio on or anything, will my engine keep running? Or will I be broken down in the very bad neighborhood that the autozone is in? Isnt that bad for the battery too? I want to try and not have to buy a new one of those too.

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

31,179

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129

Jan 23, 2006

#7

• Jan 23, 2006

• #7

I would not drive the car, given what you just posted.

You can do some testing with a DMM or remove the alt (5 minutes) and battery and take them to the store to be tested individually. It really sounds like the alt went south. If it is the regulator, Maryland Stang has recently posted some good info on replacing the reg on a 2G.

Good luck.

 

R

rseifert

Founding Member

Mar 13, 2001

200

0

0

Lung Gyland, NY

Jan 24, 2006

#8

• Jan 24, 2006

• #8

I dont know what year car you have, but how do you put the belt back on when you replace the alternator. Do you install the alternator first and then put the belt on using the automatic tensioner?

 

bill302

Active Member

Nov 2, 2005

2,131

1

46

alabama,gadsden

Jan 24, 2006

#9

• Jan 24, 2006

• #9

install the alternator first and then put the belt on by decompressing the automatic tensioner.

 

CarFreakGT

20+ Year Stangneter

May 26, 2003

395

11

29

Louisville, KY

Jan 24, 2006

#10

• Jan 24, 2006

• #10

bill302 said:

install the alternator first and then put the belt on by decompressing the automatic tensioner.

Click to expand...

This is going to sound like a silly question, but does anyone have a "trick" to doing it this way? When I try to do this, it seems that my pry bar is just a hair short and the angle is 'just so' that the tensioner won't tighten all the way. I've had to get the tensioner in place, and then install the alternator. (89 GT w/ A/C, by the way).

Would this make a difference? I do have some sort of electrical bugaboo that keeps killing my battery--new battery and the alternator has already been tested off of the car. Any ideas or advice? If I need to give more info, just let me know. Thanks!!!

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

31,179

34

129

Jan 24, 2006

#11

• Jan 24, 2006

• #11

CarFreakGT said:

This is going to sound like a silly question, but does anyone have a "trick" to doing it this way? When I try to do this, it seems that my pry bar is just a hair short and the angle is 'just so' that the tensioner won't tighten all the way. I've had to get the tensioner in place, and then install the alternator. (89 GT w/ A/C, by the way).

Would this make a difference? I do have some sort of electrical bugaboo that keeps killing my battery--new battery and the alternator has already been tested off of the car. Any ideas or advice? If I need to give more info, just let me know. Thanks!!!

Click to expand...

Hmmm, I dont use a prybar (I save that for V-belts that use an accessory on a slide). I put a breaker bar on the bolt for the tensioner pulley and leverage the tensioner that way.

Sometimes, due to interferance issues with the tensioner and the breaker bar, I put the belt over the tensioner pulley and then as I leverage the tensioner, I slip the belt over the alt pulley (to circumvent the belt/breaker bar interferance issue).

Good luck.