Hello there, i'm extremely frustrated, i pulled my motor to replace the oil pan gasket, now my alternator won't charge, i thought mine took a **** so i bought a 140 amp powermaster one wire, and it still won't charge, any suggestions on where to look for the problem?i checked the fusible links by the solenoid and they were positive for power, but i don't know how it won't charge with a simple one wire, help much needed, thanks for your time!
Alternator not charging
- Thread starter '88WhtNtchBck$
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More info about your wiring set-up will help.
A true one wire alternator needs to see around 1500 RPM or so in order to 'start' charging. This RPM threshold is what excites them. Are you doing this?
If you are needing a jump or a battery charger, and you used the OEM charge wiring, you very well probably blew a fusible link or two. The stock wiring cannot handle even half of that new alt's possible output. Once you run your new charge cable (personally I would use 2 AWG and an ANL fuse), this should all but solve the issue, unless you have a bad alt.
Good luck.
A true one wire alternator needs to see around 1500 RPM or so in order to 'start' charging. This RPM threshold is what excites them. Are you doing this?
If you are needing a jump or a battery charger, and you used the OEM charge wiring, you very well probably blew a fusible link or two. The stock wiring cannot handle even half of that new alt's possible output. Once you run your new charge cable (personally I would use 2 AWG and an ANL fuse), this should all but solve the issue, unless you have a bad alt.
Good luck.
unfortuneately yes, i'm thinkin its something i unplugged or didn't groung when i put the motor back in that has something to do with the charging system, i looked everywhere but havn't found anything yet, Being that everything is hooked up right with the alternator, i need to know where to look for further problems, i'm just using the one wire no oem. My reg wires are pretty beat up though, would it hurt to cut them out in case of a short somewhere?
The secondary power ground is between the back of the
intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. It is often missing or
loose. It supplies ground for the alternator, A/C compressor
clutch and other electrical accessories such as the gauges.
Any car that has a 3G or high output current alternator needs
a 4 gauge ground wire running from the block to the chassis
ground where the battery pigtail ground connects.
The 3G has a 130 amp capacity, so you wire the power side
with 4 gauge wire. It stands to reason that the ground side
handles just a much current, so it needs to be 4 gauge too.
The picture shows the common ground point for the battery & alternator
Picture courtesy timewarped1972
intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. It is often missing or
loose. It supplies ground for the alternator, A/C compressor
clutch and other electrical accessories such as the gauges.
Any car that has a 3G or high output current alternator needs
a 4 gauge ground wire running from the block to the chassis
ground where the battery pigtail ground connects.
The 3G has a 130 amp capacity, so you wire the power side
with 4 gauge wire. It stands to reason that the ground side
handles just a much current, so it needs to be 4 gauge too.
The picture shows the common ground point for the battery & alternator
Picture courtesy timewarped1972
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I appreciate the detail and help, i have the ground at the back of the motor to the firewall, but are you saying that where my battery grounds to the block, i need a ground going to the fender well as well?It makes sense i just wanna be sure though. And would it hurt to cut out my stock wires for the old alternator to clean it up a bit and narrow down my problem in case there is a short, cuz they look pretty hacked up with butt connectors and electrical tape, although there is current running through them. Thanks for your time, i'm in desperate need of good advice!
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