Alternator

COramprat said:

Probably as long as I have Randy.

Click to expand...

maybe then a "stickie" is in order
something along the lines of: "Do Not Buy Aftermarket Electronic "ANYTHING" for Ford's at Parts Stores"

CobraRed_96_GT said:

wholly crap at your sig, 13.8 at 101? You got no internal mods and im still .17 behind

Click to expand...

launching @3000rpm with shifting @5400rpm. Best place to shift with Non-Pi heads.

Or you can have the worst luck in the world like i do and buy a brand new OEM FORD (not rebuilt)alternator from the said website above and its dead out of the box. But you only find out after going crazy for days wondering wtf could be wrong with the car and then finally towing it and paying a shop 2 hrs of diagnostic time to finally figure out, it must be crap for luck, but i got a dead brand spanking new ford alternator.

tank_567 said:

launching @3000rpm with shifting @5400rpm. Best place to shift with Non-Pi heads.

Click to expand...

Auto

Actually the #1 reason for a newly-installed alternator to fail is ...


...



...


Installing a new alternator with a deeply discharged battery installed because the old alternator failed and let it run down.

new or rebuilt alternators do not like that, as they are going to run for a long time at an ultra-high load re-charging that dead battery plus supplying the power to run everything else. They will overheat, windings or insulation will fail, diodes overheat. Etc.

If the alternator fails, either charge the battery with a good charger, or replace it. Don't fry your new alternator by making it overheat re-charging a dead battery. It also needs time to break-in without being called on to produce 100+ amps right out of the box. You can smell 'em when this gets done. Put your hand on one treated like that and you can get burned...

281CI96Coupe said:

Never thought of that. So thats what that burning smell through your vents is? the Alternator? Also, what if the Alternator is charging while driving but barely at idle, does that mean that the battery is shot when you put a new one on?

Click to expand...

easy test. Hook up a voltmeter to the battery. You should see about 12.5 volts or so if it is ok. Now crank and let the motor idle. You should be seeing around +14 volts now. If not, the alternator is bad (or the built-in regulator). Finally turn the lights on bright, and anything else in the car (blower on high, A/C on, etc). Voltmeter should still be reading +14 or wherever it was after you cranked it. If so, it is good. If not, again either the regulator has failed or you have a few failed / shorted windings which reduces output.

Any parts store can load test the thing once you take it out of the car... but the above will generally be just as accurate.

I have seen alternators that seem to charge, but can only produce 2-3-4 amps, rather than 50+ at idle. They won't cut it and when you turn the headlights on the battery will start to discharge. That's why we check the voltmeter... Alternator should be able to hold around +14 or whatever the regulator likes at idle with no load, even with the lights and other stuff running... that is a "poor-man's load test" and its pretty accurate at diagnosing these kinds of failures. You can always get a second opinion at the parts stores that test them...