Alternators

i bought a 175 amp fuse, i just have to find a fuse holder for it

K... I'm back home! I got new battery cables (the old ones were corroded) and i've got a 4 gauge wire for the new alternator, and I've got a fuse holder, (its not for the mega, its for some other type, but it was bolt in and fits pretty decently) Now... I looked at my old alternator, and the wiring harness (ez wiring mini 21) has a wire called Alt PWR going to the Bat side fo the alternator... where would I put that on the new alternator? same place? or do I also just electrical tape that wire too?
The harness also came with a wire that says, ATTENTION!!!!! If you are going to put in an alternator of 80 AMPS or higher, you MUST put this bypass wire in. Alternator RED battery post to STARTER solenoid where the battery Cable connects to Starter solenoid.

Bump,
I've emailed Ez wiring twice now, I'm not sure whats goin on with them. And living on West coast its hard to catch their office hours, they close at like 2 eastern, and cause of my recent nocturnal tendencies(finals week coming up) i haven't been able to wake up in time. And when i do call i get a busy message. Anyone else make sure i'm right in my wiring? I have a problem with an extra wire that they provided and the Alternator power wire thats on the harness. This is what i wrote to EZ wiring:


I'm upgrading my alternator and just want to make sure i wire it correctly with the harness.
Currently: I have a Mini 21 harness, in a 66 mustang with a stock 65 amp alternator, externally regulated.

I want to upgrade to : a 110 amp alternator, 1 wire, internally regulated.

To do this from what I understand is that:
I have to stop voltage coming from the Alternator Exciter wire, going to the regulator right. As well as take out he regulator and the wires coming from it to the alternator.
However, I have a question about red wire that goes to the BAT section of the alternator...and the bypass wire that you provided with the harness. I intend to use a 4 gauge wire along with a 175 amp inline fuse that will connect to the alternator going to the battery side of the starter solenoid. Do I still need to connect the red wire that used to go to the BAT section of the alternator? and do I still need to use the bypass wire? (the instructions for the bypass wire say that if the alternator is 80+ amps run this wire from the Bat section of the alternator to the solenoid)

Tim? Rusty? anyone?

Sweet, Thanks Tim, thats the answer I was lookn for. I'll post pics tomorrow when I install it.

Hey all, mounted it, first the second bolt with the adjustable bracket, was too big for the new alternator, got a new bolt for it... then the crankshaft belt was too long, and i realized that it was off the crank shaft Then I hooked it all up. Started it up right away, reved it a tad and it screeched... turned it off.. and it didn't seemed really lose (the belt tension) so I tightened it, turned it on, reved it, it was fine, turned on the stereo, and the checked voltage... voltage is 13.9 idle, 14-14.3 reved (not sure how much i took off my tach) However, when the bass hits the headlights still dim... I'm not sure if thats only cause its idling or what... the amp is 600 watts, and the alternator is 110 amps.. Does that mean the alternator is not really 110 amps? or what?

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Thats the alternator and the fuse.

As you can tell, my engine compartment needs some serious TLC

one more question... after starting the car up and letting it sit here, i looked into the engine compartment and i started to hear a clicking kinda noise coming from the driver side valve covers, it sound almost like a diesel engine, (the constant clicks).

no I don't have one, and i think i'll just leave it alone... its not a big deal imo. Just as long as it doesn't kill my battery i'm fine

haha k, they're kinda messy, but here ya go.

Inside
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The head unit, on the right if you look closely you can see the tweeter, the speaker is laying flat so you can't see it there. (plus its super messy) [ Hopefully in the summer i'll get enough time and tools to build myself a nice center console that will encase the head unit]

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Wires running under the window, gotta secure em

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Wires running under the sill plate

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SUB!!! its bangin' to say the least.

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partial part of the amp, (poorly secured carpet, gonna finish installn it(the carpet) later.)

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2 6x9s (The plastic holders broke, gotta get new ones., yah... the car is super dusty)

How'd i secure the sub box?

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Thats using a bolt that the gas tank uses.

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had to drill a new hole for that one.


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Amp pre installation (provided by iskwezm)

while those pics are up, what do you guys think about the two tone interior, the two shades of red? keep it or match em?


The only rattle i get... the gas cap.. my mustang symbol on my gas cap is loose, and it rattles =\