I read the same ^^^^^ high quality u-joint's usually don't have grease fittings because they don't tend to lose grease. And the fact it adds a fracture point in the geometry. I too have rpm induced vibration in my drive line. Changed axle bearings, trans mount, checked run out on tailshaft, etc... got better after removing stock rubber trans mount with a urethane one, as I'm pretty sure the solid engine mounts with the soft rubber trans mount was an outlet for the vibration... anyone else have ideas? Seems there's a lot of posts here with different culprits for the vibe.
That is NOT right. The seals are the same, and the grease makes the joint last much longer. A dry joint grinds or seizes then fails. Unless you have the torque to twist shafts and splines, the greaseable one is often the premium part. Install the grease zerk on the compression side and crack failures will be minimalized. If you only go quarter miles or do not mind checking the joint regularly, then go solid. But not because solid is a better made part. It will not be.
I have the aerostar shaft. I haven't put it in yet but heard it is a good replacement. Is it comparable to the FRPP at all? I still need to buy the u joints and everything to make it work but it only cost me 13 dollars so why not haha
I have the aerostar shaft. I haven't put it in yet but heard it is a good replacement. Is it comparable to the FRPP at all? I still need to buy the u joints and everything to make it work but it only cost me 13 dollars so why not haha
I do remember reading it is larger in diameter than the Ford racing one. But I do not know that from experience. The price was right on yours, even with new u joints.