aluminum flywheel weight savings?
- Thread starter slayerripkdc
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EPIK
Member
IIRC, when I installed the stock 03 Cobra aluminum flywheel in my Mach, the difference was about 12 lbs from the stock iron flywheel give or take...
How do you find running around with the aluminum flywheel on the street? Does it make it any harder to drive? Chatter on easy take off? More effort needed?
EPIK
Member
Yup, it chatters a bit more than the stock 1 did on easy take offs, & it does take a bit more effort, but 03 Cobra's did come stock with them from the factory. If I could go back I would just keep the stocker, but this 1 does rev up quicker.
Maxpowers
Member
EPIK
Member
Maxpowers
Member
I'm under the impression that you get a light weight flywheel so the engine revs faster, not for overall weight reduction.
Not sure what your goals are or your reason for wanting a lighter flywheel.
Not sure what your goals are or your reason for wanting a lighter flywheel.
jeremy canter
Member
Night Shifter
Well-Known Member
tank_567
Active Member
mine hasnt chattered with any clutches ive had and it doesnt seem any harder to drive
+1 i have no issues driving. Does rev some what faster. Picked up a .1 @ the track lol,
I switched to a 12lb aluminum flywheel and loved the results. It revved a lot faster, but my fuel economy went down a bit. It made shifting feel a bit different after, but the IAC restrictor I put in fixed that. I did pair it up with a 6 puck 'high coefficient' clutch, but regret it. The pedal effort is insane. It does grip like glue though.
Maxpowers
Member
I don't see how a flywheel and clutch can change fuel economy. Maybe you run your car harder now?
I've yet to hear of a puck clutch that is soft.
Aluminum Flywheel
I think he is right because I have 1998 Cobra with a Spec Aluminum Flywheel and my gas mileage has also dropped. The AF causes the engine to drop way quicker than my stock FW. The computer calibrates according to how you want the car to drive. In other words when I disconnect the two battery terminals and reset the computer and re-connect them. The car drives horrable causes a jerking drive between shifting gears. So what I do is keep the RPM up where I want it to cause a smooth shift. The computer than calibrates to these RPMs and stores the information and now I have no more jerking: "The computer is dumping more fuel in order to keep the engine from dropping because of the lighter FW." My Original/Factor FW keep the engine at high RPM because of the extra mass rotation and the computer did not need to dump fuel keeping the RPMs up. I am putting a 1259 Tremec T-56 and going to take the AF off and putting a Spec Billet Steel because I want my fuel back and completly smoother ride.
Hope this kind of cleared things up. Do you know anyone who put a 1259 tremec and what all they needed?
I think he is right because I have 1998 Cobra with a Spec Aluminum Flywheel and my gas mileage has also dropped. The AF causes the engine to drop way quicker than my stock FW. The computer calibrates according to how you want the car to drive. In other words when I disconnect the two battery terminals and reset the computer and re-connect them. The car drives horrable causes a jerking drive between shifting gears. So what I do is keep the RPM up where I want it to cause a smooth shift. The computer than calibrates to these RPMs and stores the information and now I have no more jerking: "The computer is dumping more fuel in order to keep the engine from dropping because of the lighter FW." My Original/Factor FW keep the engine at high RPM because of the extra mass rotation and the computer did not need to dump fuel keeping the RPMs up. I am putting a 1259 Tremec T-56 and going to take the AF off and putting a Spec Billet Steel because I want my fuel back and completly smoother ride.
Hope this kind of cleared things up. Do you know anyone who put a 1259 tremec and what all they needed?
Not at all. No different from stock for me as far as hill starts are concerned. Just don't get an overly aggressive clutch for your setup. That was my mistake.
Aluminum Flywheel
I think he is right because I own a 1998 Cobra Mustang with a Spec AFW and my mileage has dropped eversince. The AF causes the RPMs to drop much quicker than my factory FW (causing a "horrible" jerking like between shifting gears). After I completely reset the computer (disconnecting the battery terminals) and let it calibrate itself to the new AFW the "injectors are now dumping more fuel" in order to keep the engine from dropping so quickly (because of the lighter AFW) for I can have a decent shift between gears.
Note: In order to have the computer calibrate itself to the lighter FW. The driver has to keep his foot on the accelerator and act as if the Factory FW was still on the engine for you can have a smooth shift between gears. The computer will calibrate itself to this after a few miles, and it will feel good enough "not to have that jerk like feeling." But one has to be good with the clutch and not rush off from a stop light or rush off when at a hill or the clutch will get smoked!!!!!!! However, the performance does feel better. I have had my Spec AF for about a little over three years and still running strong. But now that I am replacing my T-45 with a 1259 Tremece T-56 (M-7003-G) I am going to put a Spec Steel Billet for my wife not to have any problems driving it in case she has to.
I think he is right because I own a 1998 Cobra Mustang with a Spec AFW and my mileage has dropped eversince. The AF causes the RPMs to drop much quicker than my factory FW (causing a "horrible" jerking like between shifting gears). After I completely reset the computer (disconnecting the battery terminals) and let it calibrate itself to the new AFW the "injectors are now dumping more fuel" in order to keep the engine from dropping so quickly (because of the lighter AFW) for I can have a decent shift between gears.
Note: In order to have the computer calibrate itself to the lighter FW. The driver has to keep his foot on the accelerator and act as if the Factory FW was still on the engine for you can have a smooth shift between gears. The computer will calibrate itself to this after a few miles, and it will feel good enough "not to have that jerk like feeling." But one has to be good with the clutch and not rush off from a stop light or rush off when at a hill or the clutch will get smoked!!!!!!! However, the performance does feel better. I have had my Spec AF for about a little over three years and still running strong. But now that I am replacing my T-45 with a 1259 Tremece T-56 (M-7003-G) I am going to put a Spec Steel Billet for my wife not to have any problems driving it in case she has to.
The flywheel is just a spinning piece of metal. There is absolutely no computer calibration needed. Any loss in fuel mileage is the result of you over reving the car / not maintaining your revs while you shift.
Once you learn how to use your aluminum flywheel (takes a day or two) everyday driving is pretty much the exact same as before.
+1 on the don't get an overly aggressive clutch.
Maxpowers
Member
Exactly. Just like putting lighter rims on or an aluminum drive shaft. There is no calibration that is needed.
The only increase in fuel consumption would be a result of the right foot.
Maxpowers
Member
The main purpose for lighter drive line components would be to lessen the rotating mass.
Green&GoldGT
Member
Around 10 lb savings. I would recommend an AF as it revs so much faster, I noticed a huge difference over stock. You will have to rev your engine more on take off as aluminum stores less energy than iron. I do have chattering but I blame that on the clutch which was installed at the same time.
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