How do you find running around with the aluminum flywheel on the street? Does it make it any harder to drive? Chatter on easy take off? More effort needed?
IIRC, when I installed the stock 03 Cobra aluminum flywheel in my Mach, the difference was about 12 lbs from the stock iron flywheel give or take...
Which clutch did you match with the Cobra flywheel?
mine hasnt chattered with any clutches ive had and it doesnt seem any harder to drive
I switched to a 12lb aluminum flywheel and loved the results. It revved a lot faster, but my fuel economy went down a bit. It made shifting feel a bit different after, but the IAC restrictor I put in fixed that. I did pair it up with a 6 puck 'high coefficient' clutch, but regret it. The pedal effort is insane. It does grip like glue though.
I don't see how a flywheel and clutch can change fuel economy. Maybe you run your car harder now?
I've yet to hear of a puck clutch that is soft.
I heard that a light weight flywheel makes uphill starts a pain. I cant have that living in Colorado. Has anyone experienced that?
I don't see how a flywheel and clutch can change fuel economy. Maybe you run your car harder now?
I've yet to hear of a puck clutch that is soft.
I think he is right because I own a 1998 Cobra Mustang with a Spec AFW and my mileage has dropped eversince. The AF causes the RPMs to drop much quicker than my factory FW (causing a "horrible" jerking like between shifting gears). After I completely reset the computer (disconnecting the battery terminals) and let it calibrate itself to the new AFW the "injectors are now dumping more fuel" in order to keep the engine from dropping so quickly (because of the lighter AFW) for I can have a decent shift between gears.
Note: In order to have the computer calibrate itself to the lighter FW. The driver has to keep his foot on the accelerator and act as if the Factory FW was still on the engine for you can have a smooth shift between gears. The computer will calibrate itself to this after a few miles, and it will feel good enough "not to have that jerk like feeling." But one has to be good with the clutch and not rush off from a stop light or rush off when at a hill or the clutch will get smoked!!!!!!! However, the performance does feel better. I have had my Spec AF for about a little over three years and still running strong. But now that I am replacing my T-45 with a 1259 Tremece T-56 (M-7003-G) I am going to put a Spec Steel Billet for my wife not to have any problems driving it in case she has to.
The flywheel is just a spinning piece of metal. There is absolutely no computer calibration needed. Any loss in fuel mileage is the result of you over reving the car / not maintaining your revs while you shift.
Once you learn how to use your aluminum flywheel (takes a day or two) everyday driving is pretty much the exact same as before.
+1 on the don't get an overly aggressive clutch.
How much weight do you drop with an aluminum flywheel?
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