Aluminum Flywheel

GT_green_GT · Feb 10, 2009

Any one here running an aluminum flywheel? Pros and cons?

95Vert · Feb 10, 2009

I am, no cons as of yet and don't see why there would be. It revs and runs smoother, and I'm positive it'll help in the 1320.

nmcgrawj · Feb 11, 2009

The argument goes both ways.

Its harder to take off in city driving since you have less momentum. I noticed this with a 302....not so much with the 351(extra cubes covered it up probably)

There's less shock in the drivetrain....harder to break lose....revs faster.

If you got the cash i would not hesitate to get one.

Grn92LX · Feb 11, 2009

Only con is the $300 price tag (if you consider that a con) Other than that, been con free since 2005

95Vert · Feb 11, 2009

Grn92LX said:
Only con is the $300 price tag (if you consider that a con) Other than that, been con free since 2005

Don't know where all this 'is harder to take off' talk is coming from. I love it. Think about it like this, aluminum d/s, aluminum flywheel, aluminum underdrive pulleys, aluminum wheels, that is a WHOLE lot of rotating mass weight savings.

GT_green_GT · Feb 11, 2009

I am completly convinced. Im gonna be using the stock 351 crank with the lightweight speed pro forged pistons. With that aluminum fly wheel and driveshaft this thing is gonna rev QUICK

Any recommendations on brands tho? I was looking at the Fidanza one.

Thanx for the help everyone. :SNSign:

nmcgrawj · Feb 12, 2009

95Vert said:
Don't know where all this 'is harder to take off' talk is coming from. I love it. Think about it like this, aluminum d/s, aluminum flywheel, aluminum underdrive pulleys, aluminum wheels, that is a WHOLE lot of rotating mass weight savings.

ITS A FACT lol

rotating mass weight savings is a plus.

People have different goals...different intentions with their car. Someone who races rarely and does a ton of driving in traffic might like a heavy flywheel that makes the clutch move the car more. Point being, always present ALL of the changes one will experience as we all expect different things....besides if you dont, someone reads this.....

then goes to a different site....and posts that nothing happens in the way the car drives except it revs quicker....

so then another guy gets amped and buys one....only to be pissed at the result because he didnt see it coming.

LIke i said, i'd buy one everytime cause i like it. Dont be surprised when you cant bang 2nd as hard as you could with the heavy one though

95Vert · Feb 12, 2009

I understand your point Nate, but aside from resetting my idle and getting a little used to the new clutch and flywheel set-up nothing hard about it. It's different, sure, because of the rotating mass, but revs quicker and runs, IMO, smoother.

final5-0 · Feb 12, 2009

nmcgrawj said:
ITS A FACT lol

rotating mass weight savings is a plus.

People have different goals...different intentions with their car. Someone who races rarely and does a ton of driving in traffic might like a heavy flywheel that makes the clutch move the car more. Point being, always present ALL of the changes one will experience as we all expect different things....besides if you dont, someone reads this.....

then goes to a different site....and posts that nothing happens in the way the car drives except it revs quicker....

so then another guy gets amped and buys one....only to be pissed at the result because he didnt see it coming.

LIke i said, i'd buy one everytime cause i like it. Dont be surprised when you cant bang 2nd as hard as you could with the heavy one though

Well said Nate

When I was a kid hanging out at the 1320

You bet ... I ran em :Word:

Now a days ... I do the street thing

Heck fire .. When I'm just cruisin around town ....

I do what I like to call ... My Power Glide Mode ... of driving

2 to 5

You need the momentum to do that kinda thing

For you young guys ... You may not know what a Power Glide is

Ask JT

Grady

nmcgrawj · Feb 13, 2009

To be honest...i dont like the stang to be super smooth. If i wanted that...i'd get a 4.6. The 5.0 is more torquey....which a steel flywheel contributes to.

final5-0 said:
Well said Nate

When I was a kid hanging out at the 1320

You bet ... I ran em :Word:

Now a days ... I do the street thing

Heck fire .. When I'm just cruisin around town ....

I do what I like to call ... My Power Glide Mode ... of driving

2 to 5

You need the momentum to do that kinda thing

For you young guys ... You may not know what a Power Glide is

Ask JT

Grady

Haha True ENOUGH! That weight does indeed come in handy.

I'd like to see some good same day results of upgrading to aluminum driveshafts and flywheels....no doubt that it allows stuff to spin faster but i'd like to see if that turns into faster times.

Here's a twister.....with a lighter car like a fox it would be good to get an aluminum flywheel....but with our cars that weigh 35-3600lbs....do we not need that momentum to move our weight?

This is where it'd be interesting to test the results. Maybe aluminum parts win from a roll...and not from a stand still. Who knows

95Vert · Feb 13, 2009

nmcgrawj said:
I'd like to see some good same day results of upgrading to aluminum driveshafts and flywheels....no doubt that it allows stuff to spin faster but i'd like to see if that turns into faster times.

Why wouldn't it? Doesn't spinning faster with less or the same amount of force allow for faster acceleration leading to faster times. There is such a thing of upgrading stuff and not gaining ANY hp/tq and still be faster, it's called acceleration.

nmcgrawj · Feb 13, 2009

95Vert said:
Why wouldn't it? Doesn't spinning faster with less or the same amount of force allow for faster acceleration leading to faster times. There is such a thing of upgrading stuff and not gaining ANY hp/tq and still be faster, it's called acceleration.

If thats the case why doesnt everyone run a 4.56 rear gear, or better yet, a 5.10?

Only point i was trying to make was to move weight, you need torque. Its easier to move a fox then it is a 94-95(on average). I presented this argument because its easy to see a light car benefiting from lighter parts. But take a 3600lb vert, the take off "should" be stronger with a steel flywheel. Once you're moving the lighter flywheel could benefit you, but like i said before, what difference has it been proven to make? You gotta look at the whole package rather than 1 aspect.

Its kinda like how a 351w has a heavier rotating weight than a 347. A 347 will run faster at the track....but which motor would you rather have in a 35-3600lb. SN95?

:SNSign:

95Vert · Feb 14, 2009

nmcgrawj said:
Its kinda like how a 351w has a heavier rotating weight than a 347. A 347 will run faster at the track....but which motor would you rather have in a 35-3600lb. SN95?

:SNSign:

A 347ci, HANDS DOWN. Unless it's a 418, but not a 351 just because it's heavier.

Regarding the 4.56 gear, most people don't run them because of their goals, some may stay n/a, others go power adders or others just want to cruise. Soon I will have the 4.56s in my fox AND that aluminum flywheel. I guess I'll keep you guys posted. My goals are to be as quick as within reason in the 1320 but my car will still be driven daily to work will all accessories.

I still don't understand why you can't slam 2nd gear as 'hard' with an aluminum as with a steel flywheel?

nmcgrawj · Feb 14, 2009

Lol, well I'd take a 351. Too limited with a 302 block. Upgrade the block?....then that whole weight issue isn't so clear of a winner. I still think a 351 will feel better...and if not do a cheap upgrade to a 393.

Damn a 4.56 huh? Don't do much highway cruising huh?

And aluminum has less change in momentum. Its easier on the drivetrain...steel sends more shock thru the drive train...thus you hit "harder".

Really personal preference to me. 1st gear has to suck with 4.56s though. Plan on starting in 2nd?

95Vert · Feb 15, 2009

nmcgrawj said:
Lol, well I'd take a 351. Too limited with a 302 block. Upgrade the block?....then that whole weight issue isn't so clear of a winner. I still think a 351 will feel better...and if not do a cheap upgrade to a 393.

Damn a 4.56 huh? Don't do much highway cruising huh?

And aluminum has less change in momentum. Its easier on the drivetrain...steel sends more shock thru the drive train...thus you hit "harder".

Really personal preference to me. 1st gear has to suck with 4.56s though. Plan on starting in 2nd?

I'll let you know how it works out.

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