American Racing wheels walk off....need help!!

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connorn94

New Member

Sep 2, 2011

1

0

0

Sep 2, 2011

#1

• Sep 2, 2011

• #1

I recently installed a set of 15x7 american racing Ansen Sprint wheels on my 1966 mustang coupe. The front lug nuts go on smoothly and I torque them down to 80lbs/ft, I also tried 90 lbs/ft.

After one lap around the neighborhood, which is approximately 3/4 mile I get home and the lug nuts will take 3/8 of a turn to get them torqued back to 80 and 90lbs/ft.

I am trying to figure out why these wheels are not staying on there. I originally ordered acorn style lug nuts (summit racing # MCG-64000) and they walked off, so I put mag style 1/2"-20 with the washers but the washer did not even touch the washer when I torqued them.

I would appreciate any assistance yall can give.

Thanks

 

iskwezm

10 Year Member

May 24, 2005

4,159

20

79

Rowland Heights,California

Sep 2, 2011

#2

• Sep 2, 2011

• #2

do the wheels use a "shank" type" lug nut?

 

zookeeper

Founding Member

Aug 25, 2001

3,415

63

109

Rogue River, Oregon

Sep 2, 2011

#3

• Sep 2, 2011

• #3

Most of the shank lug nuts I have found are too deep for the older-style wheels. That means they bottom out before the wheel actually gets secured to flange. Since I'm a machinist, I simply faced them off a bit (I don't remember how much), chamfer them and re-install them. If yours are too long, they can and will compress behind the wheel, then they are "mushroomed" to the point that they won't come out of the wheels. Always check your shank depth when installing new lug nuts.

 

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hrspwr

New Member

Jun 18, 2009

20

0

1

Lacey, Washington

Sep 2, 2011

#4

• Sep 2, 2011

• #4

I had the same issue with a set of Torq-Thrust D's. It took 3 or 4 cycles of re-torquing before they settled in. No problem since then.

 

jcode68

Active Member

Jul 15, 2003

892

1

29

Massachussetts

Sep 3, 2011

#5

• Sep 3, 2011

• #5

I had the same problem with my Tourque Thrust wheels too. I ended up using some blue loctite and haven't had a problem since.

 

zookeeper

Founding Member

Aug 25, 2001

3,415

63

109

Rogue River, Oregon

Sep 3, 2011

#6

• Sep 3, 2011

• #6

The newer wheels take the tapered lugs, so it's not the same thing. His apparently take the older, shank-types since he says he's using washers and since he says the washers don't touch, it's almost a sure bet proper torque isn't the problem, but rather too long on the shank. It's quite dangerous and he needs to correct it ASAP.

 

Couped Up

Member

Feb 3, 2010

92

4

8

Monroe, Washington

Sep 4, 2011

#7

• Sep 4, 2011

• #7

Post some pics of the wheel lug holes, lugs etc. It's very difficult to make any determination not knowing exactly which lugs are required, or if that was even the problem before! One things for sure, your wheels weren't made for both types! I agree with the prior assessment, that you should not drive it, till this issue is resolved!


Just my .02 sense

 

HDTony

Member

Oct 15, 2010

134

2

19

Plainfield IL

Sep 16, 2011

#8

• Sep 16, 2011

• #8

Personally I would call the wheel manufacturer and see what exactly they recommend. they more than likely stock them as well.