An apology from Historic.
- Thread starter HistoricMustang
- Start date
i want my car to be the best i can make it, period. and yes i know all about the camber curve that needs correcting. i don't claim to know everything though, that's why i want reasons why and why not. i'm pretty good at confiscating other peoples ideas too. 
my car is currently planned out like this: reinforced upper control arms with wedge kit, some of open trackers roller bearing spring perches, boxed lowers with spherical bearings, 720 coils, pro-motorsports eccentric eliminator kit, reinforced shock towers, adjustable strut rods with rod ends, some kind of low buck rack and pinion like randall's rack or speed direct, 1" front sway bar, subframe connectors, 5 leaf mid-eye rear springs with a 3/4" rear bar, tractio-master under-riders, and gabriel stryder (or kyb gr-2) shocks all the way around. and for brakes the rear will be lincoln versailles, fronts are still undecided, but will likely be either the stock front disc spindles and rotors with late model pbr calipers or 70 drum spindles with 68 ltd rotors and 68-69 lincoln or 65-66 t-bird 4-piston kelsey hayes calipers or ? i still have some resarch to do on the fronts, i'm also looking into the possibility of using late model suburban pbr calipers because i think the pistons are a bit bigger, but haven't had a chance to confirm this yet. wheels and tires will be 15x7 and 15x8 68/69 gt wheels or maybe 15x8 all the way around with 235/60-15's in front and 275/50-15 or 295/50-15 in the rear, i still haven't decided for sure. i'm going to fab as much of this stuff as possible myself to save money and to be able say i did it myself.
my car is currently planned out like this: reinforced upper control arms with wedge kit, some of open trackers roller bearing spring perches, boxed lowers with spherical bearings, 720 coils, pro-motorsports eccentric eliminator kit, reinforced shock towers, adjustable strut rods with rod ends, some kind of low buck rack and pinion like randall's rack or speed direct, 1" front sway bar, subframe connectors, 5 leaf mid-eye rear springs with a 3/4" rear bar, tractio-master under-riders, and gabriel stryder (or kyb gr-2) shocks all the way around. and for brakes the rear will be lincoln versailles, fronts are still undecided, but will likely be either the stock front disc spindles and rotors with late model pbr calipers or 70 drum spindles with 68 ltd rotors and 68-69 lincoln or 65-66 t-bird 4-piston kelsey hayes calipers or ? i still have some resarch to do on the fronts, i'm also looking into the possibility of using late model suburban pbr calipers because i think the pistons are a bit bigger, but haven't had a chance to confirm this yet. wheels and tires will be 15x7 and 15x8 68/69 gt wheels or maybe 15x8 all the way around with 235/60-15's in front and 275/50-15 or 295/50-15 in the rear, i still haven't decided for sure. i'm going to fab as much of this stuff as possible myself to save money and to be able say i did it myself.
1320stang
Founding Member
I'm converting my car to a hover craft. Don't need all that suspension crap then. How 'bout you monkey? You in?
dolfan87
Founding Member
1320stang
Founding Member
Not a regular hovercraft, we're using anit-grav plates. Sorta like the land speeder from the original Star Wars, but that was crude, ours is much better. We'll kick anyone's butt on any course. hee-hee. 
Rent-A-Racer
New Member
- Jan 5, 2004
- 187
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MustangMatt1966
New Member
dolfan87 said:2bav, was that what that was? An apology?
You guys want to talk tech, let's talk tech.
First question, who here knows what is wrong with our Mustangs front suspension geometery? Do you know what happens when you lower the upper control arm an inch? AND do you know why you are doing it?
I guess that was more like 3 questions.
Here is a fact. The distance between the mounting points on the spindle, vs the mounting points on the car of both the UCA, and the LCA is off by a little more than an inch. This means that when the suspension travels in it's full cycle, you have changes in the caster/camber of the tire.
Now lowering the upper control arm puts the geometery in better shape, however it also puts the ball joint in a bind. If you are only going down an inch, it may never give you any problems, but again the UCA should be shortened if you are going to lower it to provide optimum performance from both the ball joint and the arm.
However I am sure no one here wants to try and shorten the factory arm, and I would NOT recommend doing it either.
Another problem that the factory stamped arms have is flexing during hard cornering. Many people have boxed in the arms to stop this, and that works great, but it still doesn't correct the problems discussed above.
You can box in the arms, buy the negative wedge kits, bump steer correctors, lower the control arms, and get in the ball park. However why not just fix it at the source, and put the geometery in it's correct place?
Money is probably why, but if you are seriously going to race your car, money shouldn't be the issue.
If you are just going to drive the car on the street, then when or why are you going to go fast enough to NEED to correct the suspensions built in faults?
I plan to run my car in the Silver State Classic. I have a very good reason for doing what I have done with my suspension. The question everyone else has to ask themselves is this; will I ever NEED the high dollar stuff?
87
DAMN STRAIT!
I can't believe some of you guys. I don't even want to post here anymore with some of the S**T you say. i don't post often but i lurk enough to know an A-O when i hear one. I enjoy canyon running and auto-xing my fastback...i'm a college student so i can't aford all the top end crap, but i fab as much as i can with my welder...but that doesn't mean it aint a badass ride..it still moves enough to pull on many higher end vehicles..of all people...you shouldn't be downing each other...come on people....if you have nothing bettter to do than come on here and hassle experienced insight i say F off.
jerry S
New Member
dolfan87 said:2bav, was that what that was? An apology?
If you are just going to drive the car on the street, then when or why are you going to go fast enough to NEED to correct the suspensions built in faults?
I plan to run my car in the Silver State Classic. I have a very good reason for doing what I have done with my suspension. The question everyone else has to ask themselves is this; will I ever NEED the high dollar stuff?
87
Why get a Mustang Cobra SVT when the speed limits in the US are 70 mph? Why do guys get fancy Perazzi MX8 shotguns with fancy silver engraving on the breach? It doesn't make the gun shoot any straighter. Why buy a Rolex Sub when a quartz watch is more accurate and cheaper? Why buy a Mont Blanc pen for a $100+ when a bic pen costs $0.29? Both put ink a paper. WHy let your wife get a Prada purse when she can carry stuff around in a plastic bag?
You see, the high dollar stuff are luxury items, just like each of the examples I cited. A luxury item is, by definition, a high cost alternative to a low cost item. Hence leather seats in cars, plasma tvs, and multi-function gadgets. People get the high dollar stuff because they can.
1320stang
Founding Member
Rent-A-Racer said:
Ahh.... too common, plus the feds don't like regular citizens to have it, we're using unobtainium, just having a hard time finding a source, much less a source to produce it in any quantity. Marvin is supposed to be hooking us up with some PU-36 explosive space modulators for the thrust setup.
dolfan87
Founding Member
jerry S said:
Yes, but the things you're describing are frills which don't do anything other than look good. The suspension upgrades have a purpose, which was explained above in my original post.
Big difference in my opinion.
87
OK guys, here is the only true way to settle this:
1. We all offer our cars up to be "tested"
2. We pitch in $$$$ to rent a track
3. We pitch in more $$$$ to hire Boris Said (he can drive anything)
Boris would take each of the cars on track and compare the hundreds of different setup combos to determine the actual performance of each and every setup.
OK, who's in ?????????????????????????
1. We all offer our cars up to be "tested"
2. We pitch in $$$$ to rent a track
3. We pitch in more $$$$ to hire Boris Said (he can drive anything)
Boris would take each of the cars on track and compare the hundreds of different setup combos to determine the actual performance of each and every setup.
OK, who's in ?????????????????????????
mdjay
Premium Sponsor
dodgestang
Active Member
Just popped in to see if you all were still bickering over advise given from a preacher stand-point and contrary advice given from a preacher stand-point......
and I see you are.
All'yall need to just let it go, agree to disagree and move on......in the future you can all post your contradictory opinions and supporting facts used to created afore mentioned OPINION to answer questions but it is a waste of bandwidth to keep going round in circles.
and I see you are.
All'yall need to just let it go, agree to disagree and move on......in the future you can all post your contradictory opinions and supporting facts used to created afore mentioned OPINION to answer questions but it is a waste of bandwidth to keep going round in circles.
dolfan87
Founding Member
dodgestang said:
huh?
BTW, I didn't offer any opinions.
gp001, let someone ELSE drive my car? ummm...
lol, just kidding, count me in as soon as my car is finished.
Red Barchetta
Founding Member
Forget Boris, I'll drive your cars for a lot less money.gp001 said:
I can drive it, fly it, sail it, surf it, ski it, ride it, crash it, burn it, brake it, and totall it as well, if not better than the next guy, though Boris may be a little faster than me. Similar threads
