another flaming river steering box ???
- Thread starter Fostang
- Start date
Yup it's installed along with all new steering and suspension.
Nope haven't driven car still need to do the brake lines and a few things here and there.
I've tried turning the steering wheels just sitting there and I must say the whole thing feels so nice I hope it stays that way once it's up and running.
Nope haven't driven car still need to do the brake lines and a few things here and there.
I've tried turning the steering wheels just sitting there and I must say the whole thing feels so nice I hope it stays that way once it's up and running.
I have mine on the road too with FR´s steerinng box. What I can tell you, is that now I can stay on one lane with my 225/50-15´s. It still wonders a little on poor road surface, but overall it a good thing. I have to check the adjustment too...
Are you guys using rubber or poly bushing in your lower arms. Mine is rubber, and I´m thinking of changing it to poly, to stop the wondering.
I had only on suprise assembling that steering box: I had to drop the oilpan to get it there... Was a bit nice suprise, when you have your engine on a jack, from the oilpan...
Now I just have to do something for that rear suspension. I got new shocks, 1" lowering blocks, new 5-leafs, shelbybars on a way (selfmade, yep, stole it
)
Are you guys using rubber or poly bushing in your lower arms. Mine is rubber, and I´m thinking of changing it to poly, to stop the wondering.
I had only on suprise assembling that steering box: I had to drop the oilpan to get it there... Was a bit nice suprise, when you have your engine on a jack, from the oilpan...
Now I just have to do something for that rear suspension. I got new shocks, 1" lowering blocks, new 5-leafs, shelbybars on a way (selfmade, yep, stole it
)Mosse - or anyone else, really - how did you support the engine when taking the oil pan off if you have to keep the engine mount area empty?
I'm in the middle of installing the long-shaft FR steering box in my car and it appears the oil pan is going to have to be removed. I've got the front of the car jacked up, the drivers side of the engine jacked up from the oil pan, the steering wheel and column have been removed, the drivers side header, engine mount, and engine mount mount(whatever it is called) have been removed. I am close, but still can't remove the old steering box - it wedges between the frame and oil pan.
If I have to remove the oil pan how should I support the engine? I thought of putting a jack stand under the front balancer - that seemed like a bad idea, but the only other thing I can think of is to support the engine from above somehow with a cross-bar.
I'm in the middle of installing the long-shaft FR steering box in my car and it appears the oil pan is going to have to be removed. I've got the front of the car jacked up, the drivers side of the engine jacked up from the oil pan, the steering wheel and column have been removed, the drivers side header, engine mount, and engine mount mount(whatever it is called) have been removed. I am close, but still can't remove the old steering box - it wedges between the frame and oil pan.
If I have to remove the oil pan how should I support the engine? I thought of putting a jack stand under the front balancer - that seemed like a bad idea, but the only other thing I can think of is to support the engine from above somehow with a cross-bar.
scrutmonkey
Member
im running a FR 16:1 with the power steering system on my 68. Runs great and steering effort is easy. the box will seem stiff at first because like everything, there is a break-in period. planning on switching my car to manual though...If you guys and refresh my memory, should I use the 19:1 ratio for manual and 16:1 for PS or vice versa?
I put one of these gears in my car without all the trouble you seem to be having.
Take a close look at the coupler in the steering shaft, you should find (I did) roll pins. I marked the shaft and the coupler so it would go back together correctly, then using a punch removed one of the roll pins.
The gear was bolted in place, the shaft was slid thru the firewall to join back into the sleeve. I then rotated the shaft until I could drive the roll pin back into place. A lot faster and easier than the other method.
Take a close look at the coupler in the steering shaft, you should find (I did) roll pins. I marked the shaft and the coupler so it would go back together correctly, then using a punch removed one of the roll pins.
The gear was bolted in place, the shaft was slid thru the firewall to join back into the sleeve. I then rotated the shaft until I could drive the roll pin back into place. A lot faster and easier than the other method.
i just had my near 40 year old steering box rebuilt 
Feels and turns great, nice and smooth. As far as bieng hard in parking lots you just need to lift more weights 
I got a kit that replaced all the front end components shocks, springs, tie rods, etc. I was a little dissapointed with the mustangs plus kit as It didnt come with any bolts and I had to reuse the old ones, which isnt that big of a deal, but for 1000$ I expected a little more. Overall pleased
Feels and turns great, nice and smooth. As far as bieng hard in parking lots you just need to lift more weights I got a kit that replaced all the front end components shocks, springs, tie rods, etc. I was a little dissapointed with the mustangs plus kit as It didnt come with any bolts and I had to reuse the old ones, which isnt that big of a deal, but for 1000$ I expected a little more. Overall pleased
65 fastback
Founding Member
If you're still concerned about steering effort, replace the stock rubber and steel idler arm bushing with a roller bearing. You can get the kit from Cobra Automotive - http://www.cobraautomotive.com/index.htm - It will make a noticeable difference in reducing steering effort.
You should, also, consider the roller spring perch.
Tim
You should, also, consider the roller spring perch.
Tim
Similar threads
