another throwout bearing question

[bsedwebt70-5.0]

I am frustrated - I just had a new centerforce dual friction clutch installed with a new pressure plate, t.o.b. and resurfaced flywheel less than 2k miles ago on my 1993 5.0 in my 1970 mustang because the throwout bearing was squeeling. Now the throwout bearing started squeeling again in a few hundred miles. It got worse so I just got the throwout bearing replaced again with a new Ford one yesterday and a new steel bearing retainer and it is still squeeking. It will still squeak even when the clutch pedal is pushed in to the point where the clutch starts to slip. It will not squeak when the clutch is pushed to the floor. I have completely loosened the clutch cable to where the throwout bearing is not contacting the pressure plate fingers and it is quiet only then when I pull up on the clutch pedal. The clutch cable will not come off the clutch pedal because it is secured up there unlike a Fox body Mustang so slackness is not an issue for the cable BUT the pedal now needs a spring to make it feel right and not let the throw out bearing drag on the pressure plate fingers. If I let the pedal just flop loose the squeak returns because the throwout bearing is touching the pressure plate. With the clutch cable adjusted really loose the friction point is really close to the floor but I can live with it - it does fully disengage and goes into all gears smoothly. I have heard there should be preload on the throwout bearing touching the pressure plate fingers for years BUT I have also heard there should be a gap too! This is completely opposite - both cannot be true. With it adjusted to have a gap it is quiet most of the time - except when I depress the clutch to shift a gear and it will squeak for just that instant when it contacts the fingers. Any ideas on what else can be done. Should I go back in and re-replace EVERYTHING? Clutch fork, pivot, T.O.B., bearing retainer, pressure plate, cable, .... This is getting very expensive and time consuming. I am tempted to fit some sort of return cable inside my dash to the clutch pedal assembly to get it to return all the way up when the cable is adjusted so loose - that seems to be the way this set up wants to work the best. Also - should the throwout bearing be greased before installing it? I put some white lithium grease on the new steel bearing retainer where it rides. Please help~!

 

[v8only]

t\o bearings are pre greased....just be sure the bearing retainer is clean, no need for more. If you must, a very small amount of white lithium on the bearing retainer and tip of the input shaft. Too much though and it'll sling on your clutch and ruin it.

that bearing needs preload, period. That's a fact. Despite what you think, you'll never get full disengagment with that style clutch unless the bearing is preloaded.

t/o bearings typically squeak when they're not preloaded as they are moving against the pp, and not pushed against it.

adjust the clutch so that it grabs slightly less than halfway off the floor in it's travel and that should be enough preload.

As well, centerforce requires a special t/o bearing, so there is a damned good chance that you're running the wrong t/o bearing

 

[bsedwebt70-5.0]

Thanks - I can only guess the t/o bearing is the issue since you say the centerforce dual friction clutch needs a specific one. It is already in now and if it has to come back out I will seek out that special bearing. For the time being I have stopped the squeak by researching LOTS of posts and finding some company that offers a clutch fork return spring that slips over the clutch cable end - it was like $17 (way too much for a simple compression spring) but it got me thinking on what to do. Now I get NO squeak when there is NO preload and it makes a bit of a squeak when the clutch is first depressed but only for a split second during that one small spot of travel. I can live with it this way. I was able to get a compression spring from the hardware store for $2.50 and cut it to size. I took the clutch fork end of the clutch cable off and slid the spring down the threaded end of the clutch cable and then re-attached the double nuts to secure the clutch fork again. This compression spring effectively pushes against the clutch fork keeping a proper tension on it and keeping an air gap between the t/o bearing and the clutch pressure plate fingers (NO preload). The pedal feel is great now and clutch engagement starts about 2 inches off the floor and is fully engaged about 4.5 inches off the floor - I can live with this. There is no grinding and the car really grabs the gears now and no squeak while coasting or driving.