Another turbo question

[ROLLIN5.0]

OK, so I've been doing some thinking lately. As soon as I get done putting the tranny back in my 71, I'm going to remove the complete A/C system, and the smog pump from my GT. Is there any way I can do this without getting delete kits, or will I need 1/both to make it all work in the end? I did a search, but couldn't find anything on doing both at the same time.

OK, on to the fun question. About a year ago a used turbo set-up for a Ford Focus popped up on Ebay. My buddy has an 03 Focus, and ended up getting the system for under $1,000. Since then he has backed off his plans of installing this system in a car he still owes $8,000 on, SO the system is just sitting on the shelf in my garage to be used as I see fit for no charge . Here's the parts it has...
T3 turbo- I can't remember the exact dimensions, but it said that it ran 10PSI on the Focus it was removed from.
Huge FMIC
Boost, and oil pressure guages
steel braided oil lines
various fittings, piping, clamps, ect.
BOV, internal wastegate, ect.

Here's what I was thinking. Mount the driver side manifold backwards (after the smog is removed), and mock up a turbo manifold to place the turbo where the smog pump is now. Then get the exhaust back into the X-pipe somehow. From that location the boosted air can 90 right into the FMIC. This FMIC is so big that the exit would be pretty close to where the MAF is now (it will be on that side of the car anyways). If I could get everything set up like this, there wouldn't be many places for any loss at all other than the IC, but I'll take the benefits of having one over the shortcomings.

Now I don't want to run 20PSI, or anything crazy like that. I would actually like to keep it pretty reasonable. I would be happy with 5 PSI (atleast until I can afford a complete rebuild, and bigger turbo set-up). I'm thinking that at those levels, I should be able to get away with a 255lph pump, and a AFPR, running 93 octane until I can get a MAF, injectors, ect. My car runs a tad rich as it is. What do you guys think?

Here's the just of it
Can I remove the A/C, and smog, without running a dummy pulley?
Can I run 5 PSI without upgraded injectors/MAF/tune?
Any other info/tips/ideas.

Brandon

 

[Redsnk95]

Just gonna answer the first question. You don't need an A/C delete pulley but you will need a Smog Pump delete pulley. ASP Racing makes a nice one that bolts right in.

Troy

 

[OrangeMustangGt]

yeah, i know for a fact that a single t-3(which would be great for a focus) WILL NOT be large enough for a v8. You would need twins!

 

[BlueOvalStangGT]

Just gonna answer the first question. You don't need an A/C delete pulley but you will need a Smog Pump delete pulley. ASP Racing makes a nice one that bolts right in.

Troy

Or just get a new belt!

 

[OinkAodeOink]

why remove the a/c? you can easly have a single or twin turbo setup with ALL accesories except the smog pump. If you need anything done let me know.

 

[ROLLIN5.0]

The A/C in the car doesn't work, and I don't have a big enough need for it to get it fixed. The car isn't gonna be a DD very much longer, so I really don't need it. Plus the engine bay will look a lot better without all that crap in there. I'm not removing that stuff to install a turbo. I'm removing that stuff, and that just so happens to make more room for a turbo.

Green, isn't your TT remote system capable of more than 5 PSI? I was assuming that you would have some loss in that system with all the piping, hoping that if I can pack everything in tight enough, I would be able to see 5PSI from a single. That is one of the main concerns that I had. I could probably pick up another one sometime, but the inlet/outlet would need to be exactly the same as the one I already have, correct? Thanks for the tips guys.
Brandon

 

[nmcgrawj]

Green, isn't your TT remote system capable of more than 5 PSI? I was assuming that you would have some loss in that system with all the piping, hoping that if I can pack everything in tight enough, I would be able to see 5PSI from a single. That is one of the main concerns that I had. I could probably pick up another one sometime, but the inlet/outlet would need to be exactly the same as the one I already have, correct? Thanks for the tips guys.
Brandon

There is a lot more to it than just the PSI that you get. You gotta research turbos and how to match it up to the motor. I would think that T3 has a a/r ratio on the turbine side of .48. There is a chance though that it could be the .63. But still....a single wont cut it.

Here's the thing(Oink taught me this), the turbine a/r ratio basically tells you when the car will spool. If you put that tiny turbo as a single on your car it would probably spool off idle and fall on its face at 4-4500 rpms. That would suck cause you would have barely any power when you race at WOT. Traction would also be hard to get.

Stepping up to a bigger turbo, or twins with that turbo, will let that window of power move up to 2500-3000rpms and last until 5500 or 6k. So it doesnt matter what PSI it is because they all can push these low numbers you ask for, it matters where the turbo gives you boost at.

You can run a different sized turbo from that T3 in a twin setup from what i read. I guess some guys run smaller turbos like that one and then a bigger one so they try to have the best of both worlds....boost off idle and the bigger one gives power through the rpm range. But i think most guys run the same sized turbos in a twin setup. Its probably more efficient that way. You can find those T3's EVERYWHERE so finding another wont be a problem.

If you really want to go turbo spend some time reading on turbomustangs.com. That place is a gold mine for information!

 

[OinkAodeOink]

well that and the T3 turbo simply won't provide the airflow to make any noticable power on a 302 v8.. It would become more of a restriction then a power adder.
Bottom line, you need two of those.. Or sell it and buy a 60-1 or similar T4 based turbo.

 

[95Vert]

...

 

[ROLLIN5.0]

Thanks a lot for the info guys. I didn't even think about the turbo running out of power. I was wanting a lower RPM hit, which would be better for the fuel system in it's current state, but I definately don't want to run out up top. I'm pretty sure it is .48, that number sounds very familiar. I'll start looking for a sister for the one I have I guess, but that will definately put me still a couple years a way in the over all plan, since I'll need a whole lot of supporting mods, and will want to have everything else done for the tuning session. Maybe I can find an M90 somewhere for cheap. I could slap that in that space for sure, and wouldn't even have to mess with the exhaust. It would be less likely to run out of gas up top too. Hmmmm. Thanks again for the info guys.

I'm still kind of interested in the belt thing though. Can I get a belt that will run just crank, water pump, PS, and alternator, or do I really have to get the smog delete kit?

Brandon

 

[OinkAodeOink]

I dont know abou tjust slapping an M90 on there, without a custom lower.. But yea, that would make things more simple. It would not provide the top end pull like a turbo, but would be a nice improvment over stock, no doubt.

The belt thing is very simple.. I've personally done just about every belt routing you can think of, because my engine/power adder combo has changed so much.. You do not need an a/c delete kit/pulley, nor do you need a smog pulley delete kit. You simply run a shorter belt. The belt size will vary with what underdrives your using, if at all.. So take a tape measure and loop it around the pulleys, to figure out belt lenght ( then subract 1" from that figure to take into account, the belt tension)