Anti-seize vs. Thread lock?

[PlusP]

When is it best to use anti-seize and when is it best to use thread lock? I think this is a question that would be helpful to everyone.

I am just installing a new OEM fan on a 93 fox. (no biggie) I don't think I need either, since the fan is spinning and will keep the bolts in place.

I just need some clarification because of a bad experience I had in the past with a brake job. I've done quite a few brake jobs and never used thread lock. I just torqued the caliper bolts to the correct poundage and went on my way without a hitch. That was up until I did my wife's Ranger. After about a week, one of the caliper bolts, that was correctly torqued, came loose...yikes. If I can't do a mechanical job properly, I won't do it at all. (...and I certainly don't want to see my fan greeting my hood at 4,000 rpm. )

 

[dwhiskie]

Well on my last motor I torqued the fan bolts to spec but did not use thread lock on the bolts. Well a few hundred miles later close to 6k rpms the bolts decided to come loose. Fan flew off and went thru my radiator then spun around a bit under the hood and broke the waterpump and the timing chain cover. Thats a good place to use threadlock. Now as far as anti-seize, Good place is sparkplugs and header bolts on aluminum heads, that way when you pull them out the threads from the heads dont come out with the bolt. Another good place for the anti-seize would be the o2 sensors, otherwise you might not beable to get them out when needed. Driveshaft bolts is a must for threadlock.

 

[PlusP]

I just installed a FRPP rad. and a new waterpump recently (it's hot in Texas). I don't want to lose em! Thanks for the info.