any good/resonably priced alum. radiators

red67gta · Sep 1, 2009

i've got a 1967 mustang 390/automatic. new engine, apx. 425 h.p. o.e. brass re-cord 3 row. flex lite dual 12" thremo. controlled (2500 cfm rated) it's not adiquately cooling, i am going to aluminum radiator. i need to get what will work but can't refinance my house for it!

questions::
fans=
1 what is min. cfm needed for 425 h.p.?

aluminum radiator-
1 is 16 fins per inch a std. h/d rating?
2 is 3 tubes per inch better than 2 tubes per inch more efficent? (it seems it would dump more heat)
3 do cheaper rad.'s have trans cooler/cooling issues?
4 is a "triple pass" (down flow as mustangs use) radiator snake oil?
5 i'm even entertaining the idea of running a cross flow if benifitial to cooling? thoughts

ALL your input i greatly appriciated.

thanks

here are a few i've looked at

favorite, is it worth it?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT

next best
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT

good $, workable? maybe with my existing puller fans + this pusher
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT

2+2GT · Sep 1, 2009

Before you throw a lot of coin at a radiator, try putting a valve in the heater hose between the intake and the firewall.

Rapid · Sep 2, 2009

Look into Alumitech Reproductions. I was running a three row copper at 210 put in his unit and stay at 180. The owner is very helpful. His website does not show Ford stuff so call him.

70vert · Sep 2, 2009

Have you looked at Summit/Northern?

red67,
I have a Summit/Northern 26" wide, 19" tall waiting for my 408 stroker that will put out about 500. I have dual fans that are just wide enough to cover the whole radiator surface so that should do the trick. I don't have room to do it without moving the battery to the trunk, but you might be able to just move it to the driver's side if you don't have a power steering reservoir right there like I do. The Northern stuff from Summit seems like a great deal. I had crossflow originally and do feel that it's superior. We'll see how it actually performs when it's in there, though . . .

silverbluebp · Sep 2, 2009

I have a Northern race pro 19" x22" that I've been running for 5 years. The car runs great and after I added a shroud, stays cool when idling.

These guys: Universal Parts, Inc. sell Northern radiators and parts. Their prices are even better on ebay.

red67gta · Sep 3, 2009

2+2GT said:
Before you throw a lot of coin at a radiator, try putting a valve in the heater hose between the intake and the firewall.

wouldn't that acually increase heat (small as it may be), by eliminating one source of heat rejection? if you were to do this would you want to somehow make it circulate back? my 67 mercury uses a simuliar valve

AND i beleive the previously installed fan relay is wired wrong. it's trigger wire is taking the signal from the starter solinoid "i"(only 10.5v). i thought i knoticed something funky in regaurds to the fan operation but was always sidetracked and never zeroed in on it yet... todays job is to pull a wire from the ign. switch hot.

does anyone know of a relay thats timed to run for several minites after shut off?

2+2GT · Sep 3, 2009

red67gta said:
wouldn't that acually increase heat (small as it may be), by eliminating one source of heat rejection? if you were to do this would you want to somehow make it circulate back? my 67 mercury uses a simuliar valve

AND i beleive the previously installed fan relay is wired wrong. it's trigger wire is taking the signal from the starter solinoid "i"(only 10.5v). i thought i knoticed something funky in regaurds to the fan operation but was always sidetracked and never zeroed in on it yet... todays job is to pull a wire from the ign. switch hot.

does anyone know of a relay thats timed to run for several minites after shut off?

The heater does not cool the engine at all, unless you are driving around in August heat with the heater on full-blast, cooking your family. With the heater off, the coolant circulating through the heater does not cool off at all, and the coolant that could have gone through the radiator instead goes back into the engine just as hot as it started out. You'll get maybe 5% better cooling if you force that coolant to go through the radiator instead. Take a look at factory AC cars sometime- They have a valve that shuts off the heater flow to improve cooling when the AC is on.

The battery post on the solenoid is where Ford connected high-power accessories, you cooling fan should be fine there. Rememeber, the electrical system runs at 14V when you are off idle.

any good/resonably priced alum. radiators

red67gta

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