Any objection?
- Thread starter owen02gt
- Start date
GoBabyVroommm
Active Member
Stay away from the roots style blowers. To much heat and they don't make as much hp a cent. blowers.
What does stage 2 mean? Do you have the specs on the cam?
Im kinda in the same boat that you are in. If you don't have a forged bottom end with those camsand you throw a blower on top of the motor, your engine is not gonna last very long. Roots blowers and Twin screws are great blowers. You have boost right at idle. Im not hatting on the centri's as i have one and it pulls like a B***h up high but honestly you cant go wrong with and inter-cooled Kenne Bell blower. If i had the money that is the route that i would have done but i got a screaming deal on my Vortech. I would say hold off on the cams like i am and wait till you get a built motor and then throw some cams in there. just my .02 cents.
GoBabyVroommm
Active Member
He is right, with boost right off the back. But unless you have a M/T tire on your car your going to hate it. I have seen all the blower out there and for a street car, hell even a track car centri. is the best way to go.
All my friends that went with roots don't like them and wish the never bought it. As for KB he got lucky that 03/04 cobra owners were to scared/lazy to go with a centri. But now more people with 03/04 cobras are going with centri and get a 99-02 intake to run them
good luck.
All my friends that went with roots don't like them and wish the never bought it. As for KB he got lucky that 03/04 cobra owners were to scared/lazy to go with a centri. But now more people with 03/04 cobras are going with centri and get a 99-02 intake to run them
good luck.
well i dont plan on blowin it until i build up the bottom end (of course). as far as a centri goes, if i were gonna go that route i would just turbo it to rid of the power loss of being belt driven. twin screw is the most effecient roots style and it disapates heat a little better than most. Stage 2 is just a type of comp cam they have a little longer duration than a stage 1 (obviously) and from what i hear its more that sufficient for my application.
trinity_gt
10 Year Member
I've got a KB twinscrew and Comp "Stage 1" (XE262AH) cams in my 02. It's just the little 1.7L unit with a 9psi pulley. After installation, it pulled 385rwHP through the factory paper filter, MAF screen and OE midpipe but there were two faults at the time I only discovered later: an incorrect PCV configuration resulted in a large vacuum leak and the spark plug gap hadn't been closed down to 0.035" (they were all at 0.054"). I suspect it's close to 400 or so with the corrections and a K&N drop-in filter in place.
It's hard to say what, if any, effect the cams had on the power. It still has the slight idle lumpiness and I feel a pretty nice power "surge", if you will, at 5000. These aren't big cams in any way, shape or form so their effects on a blower motor might be negligible.
I will say this: If you go with a positive displacement blower (roots, twinscrew etc), I wouldn't go with Stg2 cams. Cams like these are designed for high RPM power on N/A engines. They improve breathing at high RPM through duration, lift and overlap at the expense of low-RPM driveability (which is where some of the idle lumpiness comes from...) With a p/d blower, you don't need that high RPM breathing ability as the blower is pushing more air already. You've got lots and lots of low RPM torque and don't need to spin the motor to 6000RPM and if you do, there's still lots of boost there. Stg1 or stock is all I'd do. I often wonder if mine might do a bit better on the dyno with the OE cams back in place...
It's hard to say what, if any, effect the cams had on the power. It still has the slight idle lumpiness and I feel a pretty nice power "surge", if you will, at 5000. These aren't big cams in any way, shape or form so their effects on a blower motor might be negligible.
I will say this: If you go with a positive displacement blower (roots, twinscrew etc), I wouldn't go with Stg2 cams. Cams like these are designed for high RPM power on N/A engines. They improve breathing at high RPM through duration, lift and overlap at the expense of low-RPM driveability (which is where some of the idle lumpiness comes from...) With a p/d blower, you don't need that high RPM breathing ability as the blower is pushing more air already. You've got lots and lots of low RPM torque and don't need to spin the motor to 6000RPM and if you do, there's still lots of boost there. Stg1 or stock is all I'd do. I often wonder if mine might do a bit better on the dyno with the OE cams back in place...
This is true, to an extent. You have to remember that cams are made specifically for a certain application. There are N/A, blower, and turbo cams for a reason. Putting an N/A cam on a blower car would be a waste; there is too much overlap in an N/A cam for a blower car. So all that "air" that the blower pushes in just goes straight out the exhaust valve before combustion.
Check with the kit you are purchasing, and what tuner will be tuning your car if you plan on installing the kit yourself. You may want to hold out on cams if you're running a stock motor as most blowers pretty much push the stock engine to its limit in the first place. Whoever tunes your car will either make you a tune, or burn you a chip. Like I said, check with your tuner first. Most are using SCT, some may use diablo, sniper, etc. If you buy an SCT, and your tuner uses diablo you may end up wasting your money.
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