Any one tried ths MM 87-93 BRAKE UPGRADE PACKAGE ??????

Jaym14 · Feb 5, 2009

I'm talking about this kit-------> 87-93 BRAKE UPGRADE PACKAGE MUSTANG

If so how did u like it????

I'm considering getting this kit along with some ssbc drilled/slotted/plated rotors as a fairly economical brake upgrade.

My car is a weekend warrior that sees some drag strip time. I don't road race (although it is a blast!) and I don't really feel I need to swap the rears to disc.

What other upgrades might go well with the above?

Mustang5L5 · Feb 5, 2009

For the cost, there are far more things you can do to upgrade your brakes. In the end, you just shelled out nearly $400 for stock brakes that are only marginally better.

Jaym14 · Feb 5, 2009

Mustang5L5 said:
For the cost, there are far more things you can do to upgrade your brakes. In the end, you just shelled out nearly $400 for stock brakes that are only marginally better.

ok.... like?

aar0s · Feb 5, 2009

i put this on my car about two years ago and love it. if your not going to switch to 4 wheel disk i dont see how this kit would be a waste.

Mustang5L5 · Feb 5, 2009

Jaym14 said:
ok.... like?

Unfortunately staying 4-lug limits you very badly.

For ~$200 many guys have upgraded to Sn95 style spindles and hub and run the 99-04 GT 2-piston calipers. Better clamping force, better style rotor/hub setup allowing more efficient cooling, more modern brake setup. But you would have to go 5-lug.

SS lines are a great deal. I won't knock them at all.

As for rotors, drilling holes and slots is not an upgrade on a rotor already prone to "warpage" due to heat. MASS is what cools a rotor, not fancy holes and slots perpendicular to the airflow out of the rotor. The Mustang already suffers from undersized brakes coupled to a integrated hub...it doesn't need to be crippled more by reducing the mass of the rotor and concentrating the heat into a lesser area of mass. Warpage is friction material transfer from the pads to the rotors unevenly by excess heat. If you want to reduce tendency to "warp", you gotta keep the brakes cool by way of air ducting, solid plain-faced rotors and pads that can take higher heat.

The problem isn't what you get in the parts you listed. They all do offer some improvement. If the kit costs $100 or so i'd say go for it. It's just that the cost associated with making a stock brake system decent can be excessive for marginal gains.

I'm not talking out of my ass here. I've run pretty much every fox brake setup you can think of.

Stock 4-lug
4-lug with 73mm calipers
5-lug with 73mm calipers
5-lug SVO front and rear
5-lug SN95 GT front and rear
and now Cobra 13" front, 12" rear.

Toss in SS lines, hawk pads, MM caliper bushings, fancy rotors, you name it on all those setups. I wasted a lot of money, and in the end, my $700 5-lug Cobra setup was the best deal I should have done from the beginning.

lang williams · Feb 5, 2009

i'm sure thats a good kit but not that cost effective. i got braided steel lines off ebay for $50, 94/95 spindles for $70, 99 pbr's for $40, new pads for $40, an used freshly turned rotors for $20. If you want to stay 4 lug that kit plus the 73mm calibers should work fine.

Jaym14 · Feb 5, 2009

Mustang5L5 said:
I wasted a lot of money, and in the end, my $700 5-lug Cobra setup was the best deal I should have done from the beginning.

Can you list your parts please?

Thanks!

Jaym14 · Feb 5, 2009

lang williams said:
i'm sure thats a good kit but not that cost effective. i got braided steel lines off ebay for $50, 94/95 spindles for $70, 99 pbr's for $40, new pads for $40, an used freshly turned rotors for $20. If you want to stay 4 lug that kit plus the 73mm calibers should work fine.

The ONLY reason, and perhaps a poor reason, I have stuck with 4-lug so long is that I already have a set of 4 lug welds and Nice Moser axles and if I swap to 5 lug those parts become obsolete. I'm a bit torn on what to do!!!!!

LiquidGT · Feb 5, 2009

^^Well you can sell the parts to offset the cost of the 5 lug versions.

If you stay four lug I'd get...

73mm calipers
MM solid caliper bushings
SS lines
good front pads
Good brake fluid

You'll still probably come out cheaper than that kit. I wouldn't bother getting expensive brake shoes, after all they're still drums. I'm sure fancy shoes would help, but not enough to justify the cost.

Beasty306GT · Feb 5, 2009

Go with iteveryone on here knocks 4 lug and drum brakes.....not everyone can afford wheels and all the other parts.....then use ceramic pads up front

Mustang5L5 · Feb 5, 2009

Jaym14 said:
Can you list your parts please?

Thanks!

Would take me a while to think up and remember every single little part I got. Basically i peiced it out over a year or so snagging parts when a good deal came up. I got things like the axles for free, spindles for $50, bought certain stuff used, other stuff new, etc.

Search around for a M-2300-K parts list and that's basically everything I got.

2000xp8 · Feb 5, 2009

The sleeves are only $29 at MM, and SS lines can be found for $80 from MM too.

You don't need the other 170 bucks worth of pads.
Do the pads when you need them.

I had slotted/drilled rotors when my brakes were stock, that was a complete waste of money. And i hated all the brake dust.

Another vote for saving your money and putting it towards the 94/95 spindle setup, with cobra rotors.
Compile the parts slowly when you have a few extra bucks buy things.
My fronts cost me about $450 to complete that's with loaded bullit calipers (nib)

Jaym14 · Feb 6, 2009

thanks for all the advice guys

Mustang5L5 · Feb 6, 2009

Parts list/manual here

http://www.fordracingparts.com/download/instructionsheets/FordInstShtM-2300-K.pdf

Jaym14 · Feb 6, 2009

Mustang5L5 said:
Parts list/manual here

http://www.fordracingparts.com/download/instructionsheets/FordInstShtM-2300-K.pdf

thanks

1990MustangLX50 · Feb 7, 2009

I am in the same boat. I wanted better brakes. I swapped a Turbo Coupe rear end for the rear disk however IMO if you want to update the brakes then get some front stainless lines, good brake fluid and some Hawk HP Plus pads and when you install the new pads have your rotors resurfaced on the car if possible also check your rear shoes and replace them if worn and check for leaking wheel cyl. doing the simplest things will have great results. You do not need a 5lug swap to have good brakes, they may not be race car brakes but they work good.

My brakes are:
93 Cobra MC with line adaptors
TCoupe rear disk (which from what i read is the same as the 93 cobras)
New dot4 fluid
Hawk HP plus pads (they are a little noisey and dusty but work great for weekends)
Used this setup to stop from 120+ multiple times during a weekend track session and after 2 days had great pedal and car stopped 100% better than stock

Any one tried ths MM 87-93 BRAKE UPGRADE PACKAGE ??????

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