I'm installing AFR 165 heads, Scorpion 1.6 RR, Edelbrock Performer Intake and a Crower 15511 cam tomorrow. Any pointers you guys can give or tips to make my life easier before installing everything tomorrow?
make sure you have all the gaskets and fluids to put back in the car when youre done. also, it probably wouldnt be a bad idea to have an couple extra head bolts to timing cover bolts around just in case you break one.
That's definately an all day project... so plan on starting early if you wanna get it running that day and do a checklist with all fluids/ bolts etc. 24 Hour AutoZone has helped me many a midnight installs.. It's also fun to videotape the innitial startup (or attempts) IMO.
Take a few pictures of your engine compartment before hand. It sounds like overkill, but unless you're putting one of these together once a week, it's gonna come in handy. Also, some masking tape and a felt tip marker to mark all the wires before you take them off. It will cut a lot of time and headache out of your project. Also, as I 'm disassemleing, I like to put any bolts or nuts back onto whatever area the just came out of if necessary. That way there's no mistaking what bolt/nut went where.
Also, keep your bolts togeather, get a box of ziplocks and lable the different sets of bolts such as "timing cover bolts" and "intake bolts", it's better than having one big clusterf***, but the most important thing is not to start putting bolts all over the place, such as on the cowl panel and radiator support and wheel wells, that is a habbit of mine which I have been trying to break.
Don't expect to get it done in one day, you might be able to do this but when your installing new/differnent parts, it just seems to take longer. Plus, it's a lot of work for one day especailly at home. Your rebulding half the engine.
An extra set of hands always helps. Plus you can remove the timing chain cover w/ the water pump still attached that way you'll save the hastle of having to reinstall the water pump (just make sure you don't drop any bolts into the oil pan since it will be open on the end once the cover is off). Also thread a long bolt into the cam (gives you a handle when installing/removing) Good luck!
remember to pull both upper and lower intakes before you try to pull the heads haha, that was fun. The heads are hard to pry up and they're pretty heavy, so be cautious of that. I labeled and all of that stuff and still managed to lose bolts, so just be extra careful what you do w/ bolts....i don't know how many times i've had to go buy new bolts because I either broke or lost the originals. Be sure and clean all gasket surfaces well. That is a lot of work for one day...you MIGHT get it done, but I wouldn't push it. If you're gonna remove the injectors, i'd get some new o-rings for them as well. Have fun and enjoy the results...good luck
oh yeah, be patient dude, breaking bolts and stripping bolts, etc will only cost you time in the long run...trust me.
Great advice above. I like the ziploc bag idea, they are cheap and will save time and money. When I did my new motor I got ARP bolts and I'm glad they are really nice. Just a thought.
Plan on 3 days to do the job if you haven't done it before.
Day one gets the heads off in 4-6 hours. The A/C Compressor comes off with lines still connected. Mark all the electrical, smog and vacuum lines with tags to help you remember where to re-connect them.
Day two gets all the gasket surfaces scraped off extra clean and the heads dropped off at the machine shop if you are going to have them reconditioned. Time here is another 4-6 hours. Whatever you do, don't skimp on cleaning the gasket surfaces. New gaskets need to seat against bare metal and not the residue left from the old gaskets in order to seal leak free. This is the most time consuming and tiresome part of the job. Look for little things that need to be replaced like the short hose from the thermostat hosing to the water pump, damaged vacuum lines and hose clamps that are rusted or broken.
Day three starts when you get the heads back from the machine shop. This is the time to pick up all the little odd pieces you found needing replacement on your day two inspection/cleanup. Plan on 6-8 hours to reinstall the heads and reconnect everything. Plan on an additional 2 hours to troubleshoot/adjust everything.
Now for some practical tips:
Plan on cutting the thermostat to water pump hose, or removing the thermostat housing. Also plan on removing the distributor to get clearance to remove the intake manifold. Remove #1 spark plug, stick your finger in the spark plug hole and crank. When your finger gets air moving past it, stop cranking. Turn the engine until the timing marks line up with the pointer. Now you can pull the distributor out.
You'll need new head bolts - get ARP bolts ($40) or studs ($93, maybe more). All the bolts get antiseize under the bolt heads, and everything but the short head bolts get it on the threads. You need Teflon pipe dope or ARP sealant to coat the threads of the short head bolts. The short bolts go into the water jacket and will seep coolant if you don't use the sealant.
My favorite trick that saves time and effort is the stay in place gasket. Be sure that you scrape (don't use a wire brush) all the old gasket material off, then clean all the surfaces with acetone or MEK.
When the surfaces are clean, use weather strip adhesive on the head to manifold surface, and on the side of the gasket that mates to the head. Follow the instructions on the tube or can and when it gets tacky, press the gasket down on the head.
Clean the area where the rubber rails mount to the block in front and in the rear with more acetone or MEK and do the same trick with the weather strip adhesive that you did to the heads.
Coat the rubber seals and the gasket area around the water passages with lots of Blue Silicone gasket sealer and put it together. Walla! No leaks and no gaskets that shifted out of place.
If you reuse the injectors from your old setup, a repair kit is available from most auto parts stores if needed. Coat the injector body "O" rings with oil before you use them and everything will slide back together.
For iron heads, clean the combustion chambers with a wire brush in an air or electric drill. I used a scraper for the pistons. I don't like to use the wire brush on pistons because it will remove metal very easily.
Change the oil once you get everything back together. Once the engine is up & running, run it for 1-2 hours and change the oil.
Tools: a good torque wrench is a must have item. A razor blade scraper that holds a single edge razor blade from Home Depot or Ace hardware is another handy thing. Get a Chilton or Haynes shop manual - you'll need it for the bolt torques and patterns. The intake manifold has an especially odd pattern. You'll need access to a timing light to set the timing after you re-stab the distributor.
Consumable parts:
Fuel injector seal kits with 2 O rings and a pintle cap (Borg-Warner P/N 274081) are available at Pep Boys auto parts. Cost is about $2.74 per kit. The pintle caps fit either injectors with a pin sticking out the injector end or 4 with more tiny holes in the injector end. The following are listed at the Borg-Warner site ( http://www.borg-warner.com ) as being resellers of Borg-Warner parts:
Most of the links above have store locators for find a store in your area.
Head gaskets
Fel Pro 1250 or equal lower manifold gasket set.
Rocker cover gaskets - look for the rubber ones with the steel bushings - Summit has them
Short formed hose between thermostat hosing and intake manifold
6 ft 7/64" or 1/8" vacuum hose
2 ft 1/2" heater hose
1 1/2 ft 5/8" heater hose
Blue Silicone sealer
ARP antiseize or equal for the bolts
ARP thread sealer or Teflon pipe dope for the short bolts.
4 each 3/4" hose clamps (spare item in case the old ones are bad)
4 each 1/2" hose clamps (spare item)