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Any tips for removing stubborn bolts?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Dean85GT
  • Start date Start date Oct 15, 2005

Dean85GT

New Member
Nov 27, 2004
502
1
0
Thorold, Ontario, Canada
Oct 15, 2005
#1
  • Oct 15, 2005
  • #1
I just picked up a new rearend for my car. The guy I bought it off just cut the control arms and dropped the rearend out of the car. Does anyone have any tips for removing those bolts. I just got in from being out there for an hour and a half and I did not make ANY progress in getting them off. I have a 5 hp compressor and an impact gun and that didnt do a damn thing. I tried a big breaker bar and once again..nothing. My only option left is a torch. Do you guys think that will get these threads to crack. I'm up here in Canada so these bolts under the car get basically welded together. Its getting really frusterating to not be making progress after working so long. So if anybody has any tips or tricks I would really appreciate it.


And one more question. If I have to use a torch to get my existing rear end out will it be bad to have to use it so close to the gas tank?
 

90mustangGT

I felt sorry for girls because
Founding Member
Jan 15, 2002
2,773
17
89
Dallas, GA
Oct 15, 2005
#2
  • Oct 15, 2005
  • #2
You live in the north where old bolts do exactly what you said. You could soak them in penetrating oil. I like PB Blast the most, soak it in that for a good hour, then hit it and if it doesn't move try using the torch to heat it up and remove the bolt. If all else fails you might have to cut it off.
 

Dean85GT

New Member
Nov 27, 2004
502
1
0
Thorold, Ontario, Canada
Oct 15, 2005
#3
  • Oct 15, 2005
  • #3
ttt
 

BlownFiveLiter

have car, will race....wait, it doesn't run
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
3,133
18
108
Chicagoland
Oct 15, 2005
#4
  • Oct 15, 2005
  • #4
I say sawzall, and buy new ones. I've done it before, and it's a hell of a lot less irritating than screwing around with rusty old bolts.
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
33
129
Oct 16, 2005
#5
  • Oct 16, 2005
  • #5
If you soak them in anything and then use heat of any sort, be aware of fire hazzards (not withstanding normal fire hazzards).

Good luck.
 

gt40_2003wes

I did sound a wee bit gay there.
Aug 14, 2005
461
2
48
ky
Oct 16, 2005
#6
  • Oct 16, 2005
  • #6
pb blast the hell outta them and pray they come loose let em soak for a while and hope for the best.
 

Shakerhood

20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 28, 2004
3,356
208
114
Ohio
Oct 16, 2005
#7
  • Oct 16, 2005
  • #7
Once you get the nut off the bolt, the bolt will be frozen into the sleeve inside. The easiest way to knock it out is with an air hammer.
 

sgarlic

Founding Member
Apr 21, 2001
3,085
1
56
Oct 16, 2005
#8
  • Oct 16, 2005
  • #8
If you end up breaking off the head, (which I imagine you will if you continue to pound on it without using penetrating oil,) just drill in to the bolt shaft, hammer an easy-out in to the hole, and give it a good smack with a mallet.
 

Dean85GT

New Member
Nov 27, 2004
502
1
0
Thorold, Ontario, Canada
Oct 16, 2005
#9
  • Oct 16, 2005
  • #9
Guys, I'm not out there trying to get these bolts off without wd40 or liquid wrench. Thats the first thing I tried. I've already used a can. I think the heads will snap off the bolts before the threads crack on these!
 
5

5.0tbirdguy

New Member
Sep 5, 2005
75
0
0
Oct 16, 2005
#10
  • Oct 16, 2005
  • #10
Maybe a cutoff wheel and new bolts would be best. I wouldn't reuse bolts that were rusty.
 

Aliate X

Member
May 9, 2005
602
1
18
Rockland NY
Oct 16, 2005
#11
  • Oct 16, 2005
  • #11
These bolts are torqued down to 100ft-lbs, you will need a giant braker bar to get them off. That or a torche. Dont worry about breaking them, you wont, they are extremely strong bolts. Try putting the braker bar on and kicking the **** out of it with your leg.

Btw, its easier to get those bolts off with the rear still in the car lol.
 

Mavrick

Founding Member
Aug 29, 2002
2,264
0
46
Collingwood, ON
Oct 16, 2005
#12
  • Oct 16, 2005
  • #12
Trust me.. a sawzall (or torch if the control arms are of no use) and new hardware!! I've been through it, and it wasn't fun.
 

Dean85GT

New Member
Nov 27, 2004
502
1
0
Thorold, Ontario, Canada
Oct 16, 2005
#13
  • Oct 16, 2005
  • #13
I'm going to be busting out the sawzall this week sometime when I can work on it again. I'm probably going to have to sawzall the bolts off the rear end thats already in the car too.
 

gt40_2003wes

I did sound a wee bit gay there.
Aug 14, 2005
461
2
48
ky
Oct 16, 2005
#14
  • Oct 16, 2005
  • #14
**** it sawzaw the hell outta them it aint that hard to get new bolts and nuts for them and it save alot of trouble.
 

5.0 Nostalgia

10 Year Member
Feb 28, 2003
904
5
39
CT
Oct 16, 2005
#15
  • Oct 16, 2005
  • #15
I got this tip from a member here. Use the penetrating oil, then put your breaker bar or wrench on the bolt, and put the handle on your floor jack. Then just jack it up. No strength needed.
 

Dean85GT

New Member
Nov 27, 2004
502
1
0
Thorold, Ontario, Canada
Oct 16, 2005
#16
  • Oct 16, 2005
  • #16
Oh man, I love this ****. I just came in from using the sawzall....About 15 minutes and I'm only a quarter way through a bolt. Next I tried the torch, I must have heating that thing up for 5 minutes! NOTHING....This is killing me.
 

5.0 Nostalgia

10 Year Member
Feb 28, 2003
904
5
39
CT
Oct 17, 2005
#17
  • Oct 17, 2005
  • #17
If you are turning the bolt and it's not loosening, make sure it's not stripped. If that's the case, you will have to drill it out. If it's working it's way out, then it's just a stubborn bolt.
 
T

THC420

Banned
Dec 18, 2001
202
0
0
Ontario, Canada
Oct 17, 2005
#18
  • Oct 17, 2005
  • #18
Have fun getting that thing out. the same thing happend to my quad shock bolt. it was siezed in there. I said **** it and took it to ford. Id rather pay a tech 35$ to take the bolt out then have to work in my garage for a week screwing with it. BTW it took him about 40 mins to do it, he cut it out with a torch. didnt look like he was having too much fun either. lol
 
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