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any1 help? Car running Horrible

  • Thread starter Thread starter budly91
  • Start date Start date Feb 12, 2011
B

budly91

New Member
Aug 26, 2010
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Feb 12, 2011
#1
  • Feb 12, 2011
  • #1
i need a 1991 lx 5.0 ford mustang vacuum diagram .
it idles high and when i suck on the egr it seems to run great, or actually sounds like it has a huge cam,


my egr isn't working properly and its making my check engine light come on
i just put it in too,
and i don't know if the previous owner had all the right vacums hooked up
thanks guys

and also i scanned it with the light on and i got a code 10 from a digital scanner,
any advice on what that is?
 

87_LX_5.0

Active Member
Aug 24, 2010
142
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Uniontown, PA
Feb 12, 2011
#2
  • Feb 12, 2011
  • #2
Mustang FAQ - Wiring & Engine Info

The vac diagram is near the bottom
 
T

TuneUpsNSuch

Member
Oct 25, 2010
70
5
9
Navarre, Fl
Feb 12, 2011
#3
  • Feb 12, 2011
  • #3
Code 10? How exactly did you run this test? If it was with the engine running, code 10 is flashed then you briefly tromp the throttle for the system to run the knock test.
 

Celeb

20+ Year Stangneter
Sep 8, 2002
736
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Here and there
Feb 12, 2011
#4
  • Feb 12, 2011
  • #4
Here's a couple
 

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jrichker

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Feb 12, 2011
#5
  • Feb 12, 2011
  • #5
If all you got from the code dump was a 10, then you have some other problems. You should have gotten at least an 11, which tells you that the computer's inner workings checked OK.

Computer will not go into diagnostic mode on 91-93 model 5.0 Mustangs - no codes dumped

If you don't have any electrical skills, find someone who does to help you. You won't harm anything with the tests, but you will make a simple job difficult. Don't go off and buy parts unless you know that they are defective. It will make you poorer and you may miss the real source of the problem.



How it is supposed to work:
The grey/red wire (pin 46) is signal ground for the computer. It provides a dedicated
ground for the EGR, Baro, ACT, ECT, & TPS sensors as well as the ground to put the
computer into self test mode. If this ground is bad, none of the sensors mentioned will work
properly. That will severely affect the car's performance. You will have hard starting, low power
and drivability problems.
Since it is a dedicated ground, it passes through the computer on its
way to the computer main power ground that terminates at the battery pigtail ground. It should
read less than 1.5 ohms when measured from anyplace on the engine harness with the battery
pigtail ground as the other reference point for the ohmmeter probe.

What sometimes happens is that the test connector grey/red wire gets jumpered to power
which either burns up the wiring or burns the trace off the pc board inside the computer.
That trace connects pins 46 to pins 40 & 60. Only an experienced electronics technician can open
the computer up & repair the trace if it burns up and creates an open circuit.

The STI (Self Test Input ) is jumpered to ground to put the computer into test mode. Jumpering
it to power can produce unknown results, including damage to the computer. The ohm test
simply verifies that there are no breaks in the wiring between the test connector and the computer input.

How to test the wiring :
With the power off, measure the resistance between the computer test ground
(grey/red wire) on the self test connector and battery ground. You should see less than
1.5 ohms.



If that check fails, remove the passenger side kick panel and disconnect the computer
connector. There is a 10 MM bolt that holds it in place. Measure the resistance between
the grey/red wire and pin 46 on the computer wiring connector : it should be less than
1.5 ohms. More that 1.5 ohms is a wiring problem. If it reads 1.5 ohms or less, then the
computer is suspect. On the computer, measure the resistance between pin 46 and pins
40 & 60: it should be less than 1.5 ohms. More that that and the computer’s internal
ground has failed, and the computer needs to be replaced.

If the first ground check was good, there are other wires to check. Measure the
resistance between the STI computer self test connector (red/white wire) and pin 48 on
the computer main connector: it should be less than 1.5 ohms. More that 1.5 ohms is a
wiring problem

The following is a view from the computer side of the computer connector.


Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds

Check out the diagram and notice all the places the grey/red wire goes. Almost every
sensor on the engine except the MAF is connected to it.


See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds
(website host) for help on 88-95 wiring Mustang FAQ - Wiring & Engine Info

 
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