Ok you are talking about K member. You do not have to replace the K. You can do just the A's. You don't mention if its just for 1/4 mile or some road race too. I will answer for either but I know the road part much better.
For road race the MM K & A's are the best. For 1/4 mile you might want QA1. They are lighter. Kennys stuff is nice but access to it is not very easy. All around I would say MM.
SVT32VDOHC said:
2. I have read that using some kits will change your wheel base and stance. Is that true? and if yes, is changing the wheel base an issue?
The MM K member shifts your wheels foward. They offer A's that are offset and ones that are Std. If you use the K and the offset A's you will need to do fender work or replace with the tiger racing fenders. The shift is a good thing for road racing. We are way front heavy.
SVT32VDOHC said:
3. If I use coil over struts and springs, do I absolutley have to use caster/camber plates? OR can I just use my stock ones, which I would rather do.
If you 1/4 mile you may get away with no CC plates. Would I recomend it? NO! If you road race you Must add them. Again MM makes the best ones. Dont use 3 bolt ones or Alu ones. MM 4 bolt steel is the way to go. Also you will need a strut tower brace.
SVT32VDOHC said:
4. ANybody know a good spring rate to use? I want the car to ride as close to stock as possible. I don't want the car to sit really low either.
I have a 04 cobra so my rate is a bit higher than you would run. I also road race my car in the AIX class. I run Afco #400 up front and #600 rear. Ride height is a non issue with Coil overs. You can adjust the height to anything you want. oh and Afco kicks butt! I wouldent buy any other springs. Remember that moving the spring location out to the wheel changes how the wheel/spring rate is calculated.
SVT32VDOHC said:
Any additional advice or information is welcome. I really need to do something to the front susp on my 96 Cobra, it doesn't handle well at all on the freeway. It drifts and swearves too easy. It is only good for drag racing. I am tired of it. Thanks everybody in advance, I will check on this tomorrow if I have any questions.
Just replacing your A's and bushings will do amazing things. The K member is great for weight and header clearence but its a lot more work and cost. Switching to coil overs is a really big +. This moves your spring location out to the wheel and removes the bind on your bushings that the stock spring placement causes. Your bushing material is a big part too. Urethane is nice and much better than stock rubber but they can squeek. Delrin is amazing for control and no squeek but there is a bit more NVH. If you plan on lowering it at all you should start with X2 ball joints. That will give you 1/2 inch drop and not alter your bump steer. If you drop more than that you should add a bump steer kit and check and set it. Do not use offset rack bushings. Bad mojo!
Hope some of this helps. I will see if I can post some of the pictures I have from my suspension installs.
Well guys thanks for the replys. Money is not an issue, I just want the car to ride and look good.
I want the front end to stop drifting on the freeway when I hit bumps while on a good curve in the road, it is scary. I really am not concerned with the weight. But it would be nice to get rid of all the bulk metal that gets in the way of removing the longtubes. I am guessing it is easier to remove them when a tubular is under the car right???
Can you sum up one more thing for me? I don't want to change the wheel base and get into modifying the fenders or any other thing. I just want the car to handle better. So what exactly changes the wheel base? The tublular K-frame by itself the a-arms by themselves or both? It sounds like only the offset ones will change the wheel base. The standards will keep it stock right?
Basically what combo can I use to not off set the wheel base, even if I have to use some stock components? Also, I took my strut tower brace off, and a couple of bolts are broke off in the holes. Why do you say I have to have one? I really never noticed a difference with or without one in the past.
MM Tube K will move your wheels foward. You can get stock config tube A's that won't add to it.
With Tube A arms you will have to run coil overs. Your strut towers were not designed to handle the load of the car. The strut tower brace will help to keep them in place. You will also have to run CC plates. DO NOT run Alu plates. DO not run 3 bolt plates. 4 bolt steel is the only way to go.