anyone do the hyd clutch swap

Anyone do the hydrolic clutch upgrade on their car? I am really leaning towards doing this. The kit is just under $600 from CJ or LMR. Does not look to hard to do. This may be the final cure of this clutch issue that I have been having.

Problems being the constant going out of the release bearing, which now I find out may be that the retainer has been bad?

Other being the stiff pedal.

My delima is, they make 2 diff types. One that has the external slave that simply goes in place of the cable, fork, bearing and all stay. Well even thought this style is an easier install, no trans removal. I would have to pay more to still replace the fork, bearing , and retainer shaft.

The other style is an internal slave which basically is the release bearing. The fork and old bearing is removed for good. The lines simply come through the opening of the trans where the fork does. A little more difficult to install because trans has to come out.

So what would you do, or again has some one done this yet?
 
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Your throw out bearing shouldnt keep going out. I wouldnt throw 5-6 hundy at it to try and resolve the issue when more than likely the retainer on the transmission just needs to be replaced. Get a steel one for 40-50 bucks and make sure you lube everything up real good before you reinstall.

Edit* dont forget to transfer over the race bearing or get a new one when/if you do the swap
 
I agree w/ the Sith. Your existing system is no different from everybody else' here. You need to deal w/ why that is happening, not just assume we all deal w/ the same premature failure.

I've had the slave cylinder hyd setup on a 347/TR3550. I also have a brand new McCloud Hdy release bearing from a previous project that never came to be for a TR 3650. If you still have a bug to do a hyd system, and if you want this thing, PM me to get this bearing.
 
Your throw out bearing shouldnt keep going out. I wouldnt throw 5-6 hundy at it to try and resolve the issue when more than likely the retainer on the transmission just needs to be replaced. Get a steel one for 40-50 bucks and make sure you lube everything up real good before you reinstall.

Edit* dont forget to transfer over the race bearing or get a new one when/if you do the swap

I have as of yesterday ordered the following
- new clutch fork from Ford
- New Ford racing retainer from CJP (ford does not make anymore)
- new Ford Racing release bearing from CJP
- new pivot ball from CJP.

The cable and quadrant are only a month old. I rechecked the routing and it looks correct. I rechecked where it bolts to the strut tower and it does not look like it's to close to the shorty headers. I looked at the plastic housing where it is near the headers and it does not look like it's been melted. Looks the same from top to bottom. I hope that if the problem lies inside that it has not damages the new cable installed :(

What race bearing are you referring to? The bearing slides over the retainer? The fork comes with the springs. At least I would think so, there built onto the fork aren't they lol.. Anyway I just may send the PM if this does not help. As it is now I can not drive this car daily like I have been over the past 7yrs. Maybe the retainer has been the issue all along.

Asking a couple transmission guys at different shops, they state that it is very possible that the retainer is causing a lot of the stiffness. If it is damaged it could be not letting the bearing slide smoothly therefor causing a binding which leads to a stiff pedal. I will know more either Tues or Weds. The parts should be in on Tues.
 
Yes the aluminum retainers gets grooves worn into it over time. Often times leading to a stiff pedal or popping noise when engaging/disengaging the clutch. The race bearing that im refering to goes inside the retainer and slides over the shaft. The routing on the cable should be a long swooping 'U' shape with no obvious kinks.

No springs on the fork that I remember, its just a ball and pivot. But it has been a minute since I pulled the tranny. Good luck I hope you get it figured out.
 
Actually now that I think about it and printed that picture to study lol . When I was on the phone with CJP he pulled the retainer out of the box to see if the seal come with it, and on inspection he stated the seal did come with it, that it was already in place, so by the looks of that pic, the race would have to go in before the seal. So I would think that it is in place as well??
 
What clutch cable do you have? I went through three adjustable cables before i bought a Maximum motorsports non adjustable one, night and day difference. The cable is about 6-8'' longer than the adjustable one, also the U shape it makes is more flowing which allows for less binding, and the cable construction is superior to any adjustable ones ive seen. just a thought