Anyone else seen this about Kenne B??
- Thread starter Reddevil91
- Start date
I'm planning to mount mine into the manifold from the right side:
It will [have] to mix with blower air in order to proceed.
yeah they should have offered an inter-cooled version of this... I have though about doing it on mine but the packaging would make it a real tight fit.....
besides the meth injection keeps the temps down very well on its own.
besides the meth injection keeps the temps down very well on its own.
Yep. Even better, Noobz. Didn't look like enough room. I'm gonna get the chance to see one of these installs in person, next week.
It [does] displace air heading to the inlet and I don't like the idea of shooting N2O and Fuel through my TwinScrew.
I'm going to pass on that approach.
Edit: Perhaps if you were only doing a smallish dry shot?
well in an old design like my roots style it actually provides better rotor sealing and I have made as much as 2 extra PSI doing so.
If there's not enough room, we can do your idea in reverse!
Build up that section of the boost manifold until it will accommodate a proper boss for the nozzle
What about running E85? I know it's not readily available everywhere but it's a thought. Needs bigger injectors I know but would it be viable?
@General karthief & @Noobz347 Both ideas would definitely get the job done. Each have their drawbacks. I hear where Steve is coming from, but no meth for me across a supercharger or any other metal if I can avoid it. I just wouldn't take the chance on a long-term project. I used to race go karts that ran on pure meth. Corrosive stuff. Especially to aluminum. It's a lot worse than E85.
Might run a long time that way, but why not just do it the way Noobz is talking about.
Might run a long time that way, but why not just do it the way Noobz is talking about.
Last edited:
Noobz, I realized you thought I was referring to putting it between the blower and the "pressurized manifold" or the "pressure hat." I wasn't. It's probably a smarter place to put it because it gives the air more time to cool, and the distribution issues I mentioned, but did you know that I was actually thinking of this:
I don't know if nitrous plates are made in the right size to mount between the blower & pressure hat.
I don't know if nitrous plates are made in the right size to mount between the blower & pressure hat.
You guys have more experience than me on these things.
is there a spacer there that the nitrous plate replaces?
Just thinking out loud.
maybe I should stop.
is there a spacer there that the nitrous plate replaces?
Just thinking out loud.
maybe I should stop.
The nitrous plate is probably stupid, as N20 is a gas.
You just gasket both sides, but I don't know what ramifications it would have on how the blower mounts, and I don't know if the nitrous ports on the plate would be big enough to accommodate liquid fuel, though it's designed for wet kits, so I assume it would. It really was just a brainstorming idea. Would have to be tested to know if it's worthy. Seems like a lot of trouble when you can just install the Water/meth nozzle designed for it in the first place.
Only if there's a phenolic spacer there in the first place. It wouldn't hurt anything to install the nitrous plate. People have run phenolic spacers on GT40 intakes for a long time. The theory was that it keeps the upper intake a bit cooler. It also lengthens the runners and theoretically should shift the torque band downwards slightly.
You just gasket both sides, but I don't know what ramifications it would have on how the blower mounts, and I don't know if the nitrous ports on the plate would be big enough to accommodate liquid fuel, though it's designed for wet kits, so I assume it would. It really was just a brainstorming idea. Would have to be tested to know if it's worthy. Seems like a lot of trouble when you can just install the Water/meth nozzle designed for it in the first place.
The spacer/plate height effect on the blower position was my concern, like I said, I think too much.
Me personally i think all the power down low is over rated in a car as light and torquey as a fox. I've driven foxes of every type and honestly, i think a vortech is the perfect happy medium between a turbo and a kennebell.
I don't remember offhand how much power my car makes down low, but it's quite a bit.
The thing is, while it can be a blast to drive, traction is really never going to hold on a normal basis on the street and it can be a little sketchy at times.
Forget about getting caught in the rain, probably be suicide.
Drag radials are a must, forget about regular tires.
Other than not having to downshift, the ability to get sideways pretty much anywhere and sounding great, i don't really know what all the power at 2500rpm really offers the average driver in a foxbody.
I also don't think it compares to newer cars, they are heavier, have traction, launch and stability control.
I don't remember offhand how much power my car makes down low, but it's quite a bit.
The thing is, while it can be a blast to drive, traction is really never going to hold on a normal basis on the street and it can be a little sketchy at times.
Forget about getting caught in the rain, probably be suicide.
Drag radials are a must, forget about regular tires.
Other than not having to downshift, the ability to get sideways pretty much anywhere and sounding great, i don't really know what all the power at 2500rpm really offers the average driver in a foxbody.
I also don't think it compares to newer cars, they are heavier, have traction, launch and stability control.
It offers on demand acceleration at just about any power level and in every gear. During cruise, it means not downshifting for a hill or to pass (just a slight elevation on the boost gauge). It means coming out of the hole softly then laying it down hard. It means a lot of things that I could take great effort to try and describe and still not capture until you spent time in one.
Like any other power mod, it requires that someone be able to drive it. If you get in it and try ripping on just like your turbo car, you will likely kill it or yourself. It's not the kind of power that I would describe as 'better' or 'worse' than some other kind. It handles differently and requires a different set of driver characteristics to go with it.
...and no, I don't drive around one a set of DRs or slicks, because I have a Kenne Bell. It runs on Cooper Cobras... On the street... I'm still alive to talk about it.
Skinny pedal actuation is key as is the very broad torque curve on a Twin Screw.
They make Prius and Hyundai for 'average drivers'. These people have no business in a 500+ torque Mustang. Hell, I probably have no business in one.
Of course it doesn't compare to newer cars. I won't even go down this road.
...and if you're not driving a car "that can be sketchy at times" then your car is boring. Even the V with all of it's, "heavier, have traction, launch and stability control" gets "sketchy" at times.
Make no mistake: I have a healthy respect for climbing into the Mustang and driving it on the street knowing full well what it's 'capable' of doing. I think that has gone a long way toward keeping the shiny side "up". It will scare the Bajesus out of you if you let it.
I watched some ahole come out of a stop light toward and on ramp, smoking tires the whole way into the guardrail. Wasn't even two weeks ago. I'm fairly certain that Honda (one of the new ones with all the plastic crap on it to make it look tough) wasn't equipped with a Kenne Bell.
Torque is fun in a street car, period. I gotta tell you guys, the traction from a 285 ET Street S/S is really amazing. It sticks sometimes, even in 1st gear, on low boost where I estimate it makes ~475-500 rwhp. Of course, 1st is only a 2.66 ratio. It dead hooks in 2nd gear. Anyways, just saying that you can tame the car with enough tire. The suspenion in that car is good, but it's no drag setup.
Similar threads
