ANYONE HAVE OPINIONS ON ZEX DRY KIT?

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You don't need purge. Just run it with the bottle closed, switch on and floor it out. Personally I hated it. Track yes, street no. If I wanted to hit it every once and a while, I had to freaking PLAN it. Open the bottle, arm the switch, click to the safe tune and wait until 3000rpm to hit it. It's like having to put 3 condoms on before you have sex and by then the moment is lost.
 
You don't need purge. Just run it with the bottle closed, switch on and floor it out. Personally I hated it. Track yes, street no. If I wanted to hit it every once and a while, I had to freaking PLAN it. Open the bottle, arm the switch, click to the safe tune and wait until 3000rpm to hit it. It's like having to put 3 condoms on before you have sex and by then the moment is lost.
:lol: WTF? (Run it with the bottle closed?) Please clarify. That wouldnt be fun thats FRUSTRATION, Id rather save up for a blower (KB 2.2), as least Id get my thrill on demand :rlaugh: Come on - THAT BAD? I was thinking open bottle-arm-purge-and FLOOR IT :shrug:
 
:lol: WTF? (Run it with the bottle closed?) Please clarify. That wouldnt be fun thats FRUSTRATION, Id rather save up for a blower (KB 2.2), as least Id get my thrill on demand :rlaugh: Come on - THAT BAD? I was thinking open bottle-arm-purge-and FLOOR IT :shrug:

Hehe! :) Yes, save your money for a blower. Oh, and you have to DUMB down your timing which makes the car lose a lt of HP if you are running n/a so thats why the "switch" (one extra step). In other words, I had one tune for na and one for n02 and I had to switch it under the dash. Plus, nitrous is not always smooth either..and yo uget a little bit of roughness in the acceleration like a wavy line instead of a smooth line, if you get me.

I only used it one time and said the hell with that. It looks cool, and great for track but other than that. :notnice:

oh, and run with the bottle closed and arm it then floor it is a "manual " purge.
 
Hehe! :) Yes, save your money for a blower. Oh, and you have to DUMB down your timing which makes the car lose a lt of HP if you are running n/a so thats why the "switch" (one extra step). In other words, I had one tune for na and one for n02 and I had to switch it under the dash. Plus, nitrous is not always smooth either..and yo uget a little bit of roughness in the acceleration like a wavy line instead of a smooth line, if you get me.

I only used it one time and said the hell with that. It looks cool, and great for track but other than that. :notnice:

oh, and run with the bottle closed and arm it then floor it is a "manual " purge.
I was on ZEXS website and noticed that by the time you buy ALL the EXTRAS, you know the warmer (for cool climes) the purge kit, the opener, maybe an extra stage kit, an extra tank,the price tag was like over $2000 not including the refills. So a centrifugal blower would be a better investment, in the long run, or so it would seem, just mash and GO, though it would still take 3000rpms or so to get the kick in, But you would still need a tune to cut timing and increase fuel for both.
 
Yes true. The KB blower has power down LOW though that you may prefer. Somebody correct me if wrong but it will kick in at like 2000 rpm and feel more like a big block!

Oh and yes, the bottle warmer is a MUST for anything other than summer or the nitrous dont work as well.
 
Just some things about pokageeks message...

Arm Switch - Not hard flick of a button

Remote Bottle Opener - Flick of a switch while driving your bottle is open.

Window Switch - With it being hooked inline with your Arming Switch...Kill 2 birds with one stone. You can set your rpm for the nitrous to turn on at 3000 rpms and have it shut down 200 rpms before you shift. So you can go WOT under 3000 rpms and then at 3000 it is a kick in the pants.

Purge Valve - Good to get all air out of the lines so you just have nitrous and ready to kick ass

Bottle warmer - Allows you to spray at desired PSI
 
Also if you are getting a wet kit...Go to dynotune and shop around for the acessories.

Kit from DynoTune Nitrous - $360

Purge from Harrisspeedworks off Ebay - $60

Mechanical Remote Bottle Opener from DynoTune Nitrous - $210 can get new ones on ebay for under 180

MSD Window Switch - $ 110

Bottle Heater from DynoTune Nitrous - $110


Total - $850 MAX
 
btw, i spent about $420 on my kit so far not including bottle fills. $300 for a new in box dry kit. $40 on a gauge. $80 for the warmer with a pressure switch. all new. shop around a bit and watch for stuff on ebay and you should make out ok. you dont need a window switch with a dry kit. the only other items i will eventually buy will be an opener and a purge. both of wich can be done manually for now. just disconect the vac line going to the fuel pressure regulator and hit the microswitch.
 
Just some things about pokageeks message...

Arm Switch - Not hard flick of a button

Remote Bottle Opener - Flick of a switch while driving your bottle is open.

Window Switch - With it being hooked inline with your Arming Switch...Kill 2 birds with one stone. You can set your rpm for the nitrous to turn on at 3000 rpms and have it shut down 200 rpms before you shift. So you can go WOT under 3000 rpms and then at 3000 it is a kick in the pants.

Purge Valve - Good to get all air out of the lines so you just have nitrous and ready to kick ass

Bottle warmer - Allows you to spray at desired PSI

A+. I bought my kit for $550 I think it was and that was the LOWEST I could find. Remote bottle opener AND bottle warmer AND windows switch would be a MUST if it were me. But again, I would just go SC next time..for one, it is illegal here to have it in the car not on the track.

EDIT - I could see going Danman's route and nitrous would be more fun. I just didn't want to spend that much money on N02. I persnaly couldn't find all that stuff for under $1000. The illegal part got to me and safety concerns as well with the bottle in the back. I have heard that a spark can and can't ignite it but not sure what the facts are..
 
Just some things about pokageeks message...

Arm Switch - Not hard flick of a button

Remote Bottle Opener - Flick of a switch while driving your bottle is open.

Window Switch - With it being hooked inline with your Arming Switch...Kill 2 birds with one stone. You can set your rpm for the nitrous to turn on at 3000 rpms and have it shut down 200 rpms before you shift. So you can go WOT under 3000 rpms and then at 3000 it is a kick in the pants.

Purge Valve - Good to get all air out of the lines so you just have nitrous and ready to kick ass

Bottle warmer - Allows you to spray at desired PSI
So it seems like you just flip 2 switches-Arm, and opener and then purge and good to go?

Also if you are getting a wet kit...Go to dynotune and shop around for the acessories.

Kit from DynoTune Nitrous - $360

Purge from Harrisspeedworks off Ebay - $60

Mechanical Remote Bottle Opener from DynoTune Nitrous - $210 can get new ones on ebay for under 180

MSD Window Switch - $ 110

Bottle Heater from DynoTune Nitrous - $110


Total - $850 MAX
Im going to check that thanks :flag:
 
I ran the base kit for 6+ years. I finally added a purge, just because it was cheap (friend bought it, couldn't hook it up) sold it to me.

No bottle warmer, no opener. I just dropped the timing down all the time for the big shot, gapped the plugs down to .035 and drove the car that way for MANY years successfully. I also went through up to TWO bottles a w/e during the race season. It's not a big PITA some are letting on... it's a great "credit card style" power adder. You pay as you go for the extra power. If you are broke one w/e... don't fill the bottle up. It's that simple. I still have it on my new setup. Can't wait to hit it with the 125 shot and see how far in the 11s I can go.

Zex makes a great kit.

Also, I used to run it on the street alot. I just left the bottle open. As long as your connections are tight, and hoses are in good shape you won't have a problem. I was told it was hard on the solenoids... but I'm still on the original ones. Never had an issue.