Anyone know anything about pistons and rods?

The more shallow the dish the more compression. Flat top, huge amount of compression, not good for the blower. Dish shapes determine "quench" areas.

H rods vs I beam rods are a toss up. (I think I beam are for higher HP applications and cost more) Compare weight vs strength.

I guess machining would depend on your block.

I just put my block up on a stand today. I'll be getting it cleaned and blue printed. After I look at the blueprinting I'll determine if I need to machine the block. Then I'm going to my forged crankshaft and determine my oil clearances and thus bearings. After that I'll address the pistons, rings and rods.

What you need depends on what you want out of the end configuration. You're putting a KB on the engine but what size and what pulley/PSI do you plan to run? What's your horsepower goals?

As for components, the "standard" rod for most street apps would be the Manley H-beam used in the Terminator Cobra engines (p/n 14042-8 for 22mm pins):

View attachment 198411

Summit's got a set for $613.

If you need more power handling you might step up to the Pro Series I-beams (p/n 14318-8):



These are $1,500 from Summit...

As for pistons, you've got a lot to choose from but I don't see you going wrong with a set from Manley. Check them at:

Manley Performance - Niche Market - Ford

The type you run (flat or dished) will depend on the desired compression ratio. With a blower you'll probably want to dial the static compression ratio down a bit by selecting a slightly larger dish. Depending on the boost you want to run, you might want a CR in the 8.5:1 range. For that you'd need a piston with an 18cc dish, give or take. An 11cc dish would put you in the low 9s (CR)... What you'll want depends entirely on what you expect of the finished engine.

If you've got the Hurst shifter I'll assume you have a manual trans car and thus have the forged steel crankshaft already.

As for machining, you can get the pistons in stock bore sizing. Whether or not they will work clearance-wise will depend on bore wear, taper, out-of-round etc. Once you get the engine apart, you can measure these parameters and judge whether a bore is needed or if a simple hone to break the glaze will suffice.

Nice detail Trinity... Doesn't hurt to have a build sheet to know what you want and what you need to get there.

I just got a nice "Honing" assembly for a steal!