Anyone make the switch to synthetic?

Fopar · Aug 2, 2007

got a 150K mile bottom end, this is the first oil change i'll do since I've bought it and I have no idea what kind of stuff they had in it before. Are the rumors true will a high mileage non-synthetic run motor leak like a sieve if you put synthetic in? I think it's an old wives tail personally... I've got some Mobil 1 15W50 to put in it....

blksn955.o · Aug 2, 2007

I made the switch but it was along with a new motor...

zZsKyZz · Aug 2, 2007

Fopar said:
got a 150K mile bottom end, this is the first oil change i'll do since I've bought it and I have no idea what kind of stuff they had in it before. Are the rumors true will a high mileage non-synthetic run motor leak like a sieve if you put synthetic in? I think it's an old wives tail personally... I've got some Mobil 1 15W50 to put in it....

Why such a heavy weight?

The Green GT · Aug 2, 2007

I usually run 5W20 or 10W30 or something like that. And i use Royal Purple.

Its expensive but I like it.

Now keep in mind alot of people have problems when switching to a synthetic on an older motor. The oil will actually break down deposits from the regular oil that could have actually been blocking off leaks.

Badazgt. · Aug 2, 2007

i might get flamed for sayin this but i wouldn't.... id ask the guy u bought it off of and see what the motors used to running

94-302-vert · Aug 2, 2007

I run the cheapest crap I can buy with a napa gold oil filter. My car has 163 on it now and it keeps going... eventually I will have my reason for an explorer motor or better...

Fopar · Aug 2, 2007

thick because it has 150k on it...

Pokageek · Aug 2, 2007

My 5.7 LT1 started NOTICEABLY faster in the COLD weather with synthetic! One of the benefits. Quite amazing...less wear on the battery and starter.

Chythar · Aug 2, 2007

I don't know how relevant it is, but I ran 5W30 Mobil 1 synthetic in my 94 V6 from around 110,000 to current which is 180,000 miles. It seemed to run better after I switched to synthetic, and I didn't start losing oil at all. It lost about a half-quart per fill up, but that's cause the rings are wearing a bit.

I tried running 10W30 in my V6 and GT, and it never seemed to do anything much. The engine did seem to run a bit hotter, but it could have been my imagination.

badstang123 · Aug 2, 2007

I've always used Mobil One 10W 30 since I bought my car with 70K on it. I don't know what the owner before used, but I have never had problems and I'm just over 155,000.

I don't really see a problem in switching over, but I'd like to see others opinions as well. I wouldn't run such thick oil unless you have a really bad leak though. 10W 30 should be fine.
- Justin

mustang1994bob · Aug 2, 2007

I got mine at 160k, old owners ran valvoline max life, then i changed to their synthetic, and no problems, then i read how good mobile one was and switched to that and always stayed 10w30, no leaks, no problems, its at 210k now and im very hard on it, id switch but done run so thick, it will kill power and MPG if your worried about leaks swap a quart of lucas in

HISSIN50 · Aug 2, 2007

The M1 15W-50 has a great pour point so unless your location in Cali sees serious cold, I'd not sweat it (I run the same viscosity in the summer when I do run synthetics).

If you do it, go with a shorter first OCI since the oil should do some cleaning for you. If you're the more anal type, an AutoRx treatment might not hurt.

I'd also ask: if the motor has 150K on it, there might not be a lot of point to using synthetic at this point.

Fopar · Aug 2, 2007

well not that it matters much but also 15W-50 has additives the thinner stuff doesn't, independant tests have shown some moly and other nice stuff. The older muscle car crowd has known about it for a while, regular oils no longer have the "good" friction additives because of emissions etc and alot of people are having problems wiping flat tappet cams out. The thicker oils (I think 15-40 and thicker) usually have the flat tappet friendly additives, mobil 1 15W-50 tho is one of the only "regular" oils to have a good amount of moly in it.

I do want good stuff tho as i'll be making a drive up to north cal and taking on a closed track for some fun (Thunderhill) and i'll be beating on it good for a good 30 mins or more .

Pokageek · Aug 2, 2007

Thats news to me. So conventional oils no longer have stuff that reduces friction!?? Is this why castrol is supposed to be better?

Pokageek · Aug 2, 2007

Thats news to me. So conventional oils no longer have stuff that reduces friction!?? Is this why castrol is supposed to be better?

vp6799 · Aug 3, 2007

I have always used synthetic oils in everything from diffs to engine and tranny. I use mobil one 5W30W synthetic. I noticed a smoother start and better idling with synthetic on my stang.

Stay away from sythetic blend oils. Because it's a blend, you don't know how much of it is actually synthetic.

HISSIN50 · Aug 3, 2007

The newer oils actually have more friction modifiers (less friction = better economy). On a semi-related note: as I recall, a TSB retroactively changed our recommended oil viscosity (and even that of foxes) to 5W-20. The day I put 5-20 in a desert stang is the day I eat my own poop.

Fopar is right about the flat tappets. HDEO's like Rotella are also really big with the solid lifter cars for the same reason. I've been slowly going from conventional oils to HDEO's myself (even on the hydraulic engines).

I should have earlier said that I use synthetics for the added temperature protection. It's the same reason some of you use it for cold winter starts.

Fopar · Aug 3, 2007

HISSIN50 said:
The newer oils actually have more friction modifiers (less friction = better economy). On a semi-related note: as I recall, a TSB retroactively changed our recommended oil viscosity (and even that of foxes) to 5W-20. The day I put 5-20 in a desert stang is the day I eat my own poop.

Fopar is right about the flat tappets. HDEO's like Rotella are also really big with the solid lifter cars for the same reason. I've been slowly going from conventional oils to HDEO's myself (even on the hydraulic engines).

I should have earlier said that I use synthetics for the added temperature protection. It's the same reason some of you use it for cold winter starts.

more friction modifiers probably, but not as good as the "good" stuff. Just like everything else the EPA is taking any and all good chemicals out of everything.

I agree with the temperature protection though, main reason I run 15-50 mobil 1 in my twin turbo car

wytstang · Aug 3, 2007

Fopar said:
more friction modifiers probably, but not as good as the "good" stuff. Just like everything else the EPA is taking any and all good chemicals out of everything.

I agree with the temperature protection though, main reason I run 15-50 mobil 1 in my twin turbo car

Motorcraft 10w30 seems to have "good" stuff too me. Ran it almost 5,000 and they want me to go 6,000 which I am.

Anyone make the switch to synthetic?

Fopar

Member

blksn955.o

zZsKyZz

Member

The Green GT

No 13 year olds are safe around me.

Badazgt.

New Member

94-302-vert

Active Member

Fopar

Member

Pokageek

Active Member

Chythar

Recently finished repairing my rear

badstang123

New Member

mustang1994bob

New Member

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

Fopar

Member

Pokageek

Active Member

Pokageek

Active Member

vp6799

New Member

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

Fopar

Member

wytstang

Mustang Master

Attachments

Similar threads

Anyone make the switch to synthetic?

Member

Member

No 13 year olds are safe around me.

New Member

Active Member

Member

Active Member

Recently finished repairing my rear

New Member

New Member

"How long does it take to get help in here?

Member

Active Member

Active Member

New Member

"How long does it take to get help in here?

Member

Mustang Master

Attachments

Similar threads

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency