Anyone replaced battery cables?

I

im2damncool

Founding Member

Dec 28, 1999

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Chico, CA

Aug 19, 2006

#1

• Aug 19, 2006

• #1

Both my cables are corroded to the point where every couple weeks I have to pour some coke on the + terminal just to get it to start. Disgraceful.... Anyway, ford wants $277 for a new cable. Don't have the $. I want to pull the old cable and make my own from auto store. But it looks like the cable branches off to a bunch of different places. Has anybody done theirs before? How do you get to the other end of the cable, and are there any tips I should know.

 

W

wytstang

Mustang Master

Mar 14, 2004

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Summerville,SC missing South Fl. weather :(

Aug 19, 2006

#2

• Aug 19, 2006

• #2

Are you sure it's your cable or your battery terminals corroding? I was just clean up the terminals and apply a thin coat of dioletric(sp?) grease (what you put on your S. plug wires) and see if that helps. Or change the terminal to gold plate ones...

 

I

im2damncool

Founding Member

Dec 28, 1999

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Chico, CA

Aug 19, 2006

#3

• Aug 19, 2006

• #3

the whole cable is massively coroded

 

W

wytstang

Mustang Master

Mar 14, 2004

4,988

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Summerville,SC missing South Fl. weather :(

Aug 19, 2006

#4

• Aug 19, 2006

• #4

Juny yard

 

Mr. Rustypwnz

Advanced Member

Jun 1, 2005

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indianapolis/ valdosta ga

Aug 19, 2006

#5

• Aug 19, 2006

• #5

5.0 resto. alot cheaper.

Josh

 

Stanger007

Founding Member

Sep 26, 2001

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46

Baton Rouge, LA

Aug 19, 2006

#6

• Aug 19, 2006

• #6

When I changed out my negative battery cable, I measured it with a tape measure and found the correct one at AutoZone.

+1 on the dielectric grease.

Wes

 

I

im2damncool

Founding Member

Dec 28, 1999

249

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Chico, CA

Aug 19, 2006

#7

• Aug 19, 2006

• #7

50resto:

94-95 BATTERY CABLE ASSEMBLY, 5.0, POSITIVE/NEGATIVE

WC95716 Your Price: $259.95

 

illwood

Member

Apr 3, 2004

636

1

19

Worcester, MA

Aug 19, 2006

#8

• Aug 19, 2006

• #8

wytstang said:

I was just clean up the terminals and apply a thin coat of dioletric(sp?) grease (what you put on your S. plug wires) and see if that helps.

Click to expand...

That would work, but I prefer the small spray can of battery terminal sealer that is put out by Permatex.

 

diablostang

New Member

Sep 21, 2004

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Raleigh, NC

Aug 19, 2006

#9

• Aug 19, 2006

• #9

Ehhh.... It's easy as pie to do your own. The pos cable goes from the battery right to the fuse box. When I did my battery relocated - to - trunk, I just clipped that off, put an eye-connector on my new cable, and another on the remains of the other cable... Don't even consider paying 5.0resto or Ford prices.

 

urban96

bubb rubb says:"woo woooooo"

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Sep 24, 2002

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Syracuse, NY

Aug 19, 2006

#10

• Aug 19, 2006

• #10

yeah get some thick gauge wire. 0, 2 or even 4 gauge would work. you should get 2-3 feet of this. any parts store sells battery terminals. also youll need one end to connect to the fuse box. total shouldnt cost you more then ~10 (just going from + terminal to fuse box)

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

31,179

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Aug 19, 2006

#11

• Aug 19, 2006

• #11

I agree. I looked into this some time back too. The stock terminal hoops suck bad and they want a grip for new stuff.

I'd use 2 AWG cable or numerically smaller.

Good luck.

 

I

im2damncool

Founding Member

Dec 28, 1999

249

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Chico, CA

Aug 20, 2006

#12

• Aug 20, 2006

• #12

So, I examined it closely today. Looks like the positive cable has 3 or 4 other connections that are tied into it. If you look @ the one on 50resto http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/iwwida.pvx?;item?item_no=WC95716 1&comp=LRS
you'll see all the branch-offs. Anybody know what they are and how I'll deal with them when making a new cable? Despite the "founding member" status I'm VERY green.

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

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Aug 20, 2006

#13

• Aug 20, 2006

• #13

That's one reason why I didnt do anything to mine yet (mine are fine - I was simply going to upgrade wiring gauge). For the starter cable, I was going to cut the battery-terminal hoop apart and reuse the ring portion because my starter cable doesnt have much slack. Otherwise I'd solder the starter cable.

For any other wires, I'd choose a terminal-style that allows you to either solder a ring terminal onto existing wires and add them (like we do with the oem terminals when adding amp wiring, etc) or that allows wires to be put into the terminal and held with a set screw (audiophyles are into those - the connections are like those of distribution blocks). THere'll be like a 0,2, or 4 AWG cable input or two, and a couple of 8 AWG outputs.

Or use a marine terminal........ whatever works.

The guys will be able to tell you what they used - I'm just mentioning how I'd tackle it.

Good luck.