Anyone Run These Front Control Arms

Mm recommends stock rubber bushings in the axle housing as well as well as they recommend especially for a street car OEM arms upper arms. I want to call them tomorrow on their recommendations for the front arms
I believe that is in the Upper rears only.. Easier with those to buy the new stock uppers with the rubber bushings already installed... My lower rear control arms are steeda....
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So on Rock Auto the Moog K8289 bushing set is $18.22 a side. I used to run Moog ball joints but they moved manufacturing overseas and the quality has nose dived. TRW’s are made in Spain the last time I looked and are good quality.


So call it $100-$125 in parts and your control arms which are most likely higher quality stampings and the parts you put in them will most likely be better than the ones you buy assembled.

Best complete control arms were the M-3075-A’s but they are long out of production.


Here's a question for ya... Let's say I'm about to install some 95 spindles. Could/Should I get 95 ball joints to rebuild my 86 control arms?
 
I believe so, the 94/95 (or 94-98?) ball joints are longer than fox length ones I think.
That's pretty much what I remember too.


The other thing is this:


Why is there a different ball joint for GT and Cobra? Don't they have the same spindle? :shrug:
 
That's pretty much what I remember too.


The other thing is this:


Why is there a different ball joint for GT and Cobra? Don't they have the same spindle? :shrug:
I believe lol
 
The SN95 ball joints are shorter. If you use Fox ball joints with an SN95 spindle you need a 0.330" spacer between the top of the spindle and the castle nut so it will line up and you can get a cotter pin through the hole.

So yes, if you are going the the SN95 style spindles and changing ball joints then go with the SN95 ball joint. If you want a really good one then go with the low friction design like Maximum Motorsports sells:


If you have deep pockets and want to "improve" the suspension geometry then the Steeda X2's are supposed to be really good:


So $90 for the MM units ($45 ea) or $170 for the Steeda units (sold as a set).
 
The SN95 ball joints are shorter. If you use Fox ball joints with an SN95 spindle you need a 0.330" spacer between the top of the spindle and the castle nut so it will line up and you can get a cotter pin through the hole.

So yes, if you are going the the SN95 style spindles and changing ball joints then go with the SN95 ball joint. If you want a really good one then go with the low friction design like Maximum Motorsports sells:


If you have deep pockets and want to "improve" the suspension geometry then the Steeda X2's are supposed to be really good:


So $90 for the MM units ($45 ea) or $170 for the Steeda units (sold as a set).
I need to replace my drivers side balljoint. I mistakenly bought a fox MOOG balljoint not knowing i needed a 94+ one. Since i'm lowered, those Steeda ones look like a good option. Do you need a bumpsteer kit (like MM's) with the steeda balljoints? Their website says it corrects the geometry so just wondering if you need both or if just those x2 balljoints would be enough.
 
If you go that route I would just put it together and get the car on the ground and drive it to settle the suspension in. For a street car my rule of thumb is to make the tie-rods parallel to the control arm. You can get offset power steering rack bushings if you need a little moment and if that won’t get it where it needs to be then MM’s tapered bump steer kit will more than likely get it where it needs to be.

I ran the low friction Motorcraft ball joints with MM’s tapered bump steer kit on my Coupe for a couple years with zero issues. All that came off when the tubular k-member got installed.