Rich is easy enough to check.(With a small jet) Spray a few gears and as quickly as possible kill the motor and pull a plug.
Forget about reading the plug,just look at the color. If it is black/dark brown you are rich,bone white you are lean.
Rich is easy enough to check.(With a small jet) Spray a few gears and as quickly as possible kill the motor and pull a plug.
Forget about reading the plug,just look at the color. If it is black/dark brown you are rich,bone white you are lean.
Hey guys, I’ve kinda asked before but am getting into trying it more now.. I have an old TNW throttle body plate but no part number on it and the charts I can find that I’m 99% sure are for same plate seem way too lean to me so I’ve been asking around and was told to treat it like a single fogger “was what I gathered was meant” and with EFI and a 50N jet to run about a 19-23 split so I started with a 28F and am pulling 5* timing... with that combo and right at 900 #’s bottle pressure it kinda started “stumbling” (like 2 bad plug wires or something).. think it’s too rich? I’m gonna try higher bottle pressure next time it’s kinda cool..
Chart calls for 52N 25F for 125 shot but that scares me....
thanks for reading guys
Yes 13005 is for the TNW 70mm plate. I've ran that kit in a few different Mustangs and I've always like it better than the v nozzle. I've never had any issues with it. Ran a 125 shot on one car and the 80 shot on another car. Both cars had 30lb injectors and fuel pressure at 43 with the vaccum line disconnected. Ran autolite 3924 plugs on both cars. Set timing at 8 degrees for 125 shot and left it at 10 for the 80 shot
Yes 13005 is for the TNW 70mm plate. I've ran that kit in a few different Mustangs and I've always like it better than the v nozzle. I've never had any issues with it. Ran a 125 shot on one car and the 80 shot on another car. Both cars had 30lb injectors and fuel pressure at 43 with the vaccum line disconnected. Ran autolite 3924 plugs on both cars. Set timing at 8 degrees for 125 shot and left it at 10 for the 80 shot
Did you run 52n and 25f as chart says on the 125 shot??
Thank you for input!
So difference in part number is perhaps 70mm-75mm, or 65mm maybe?
I notice 1 of the charts I found online has 2 part numbers, same as chart you attached, does your plate have a part number scribed into it? Mine does not..
Maybe I’ll try a 52n and 25f as I don’t have a .040 or .020.. and go by the 2* per 50 rule..
Hopefully it works correctly as i feel it’s really close, at 3000 the .050n comes on hard, good stuff!
And the smaller shot was much smoother so I BELIEVE it’s in the mixture..?
But.... like I keep saying, those spreads scare me, I was hoping to hear from someone whose used plate with success so thank you very much again!!
Well I did the 130 amp alternator swap and I had noticed as the stock one stopped working the car did the same “bucking” as when nitrous system on and of course as power got lower it did it at lower RPM as batt was dying... so with new alternator, full bottle.. 44n jet and tried a 25f so I’d be rich if anything... only got pressure to 950 but “bucking, stumbling” still there at 5000rpm... not nearly as bad..seemed to still be pulling but of course I let off.. same thing in 3rd gear.. crisp all the way to 6000+ with nitrous system off... I think I’m gonna put a tiny fuel jet and no Nos and see if I can determine if it’s electrical... I’m thinking maybe a ground somewhere... any ideas, similar experiences??
Yes sir I have them gapped tight at .030...
also since last post I have tried nitrous system on but fuel blocked off and no nitrous to ensure wasn’t electrical as it almost feels like an ignition problem... but it ran smooth and pulled good to 5800-6000rpm just as with system disarmed, so if it is electrical I suppose it’s not in the system itself..
Any ideas welcome!!
Thanks for the read Jrichker!