i had a hard time finding good info on nitrous installation online so i figured id try to help out others by posting up how i did mine.
First, Mount bottle brackets on right side of spare tire well ( I had to lower gas tank to bolt them in firmly but there are other ways of securing them) this is a good start because it helps determine where you will mount the nmu later
Strap in bottle and run line any way you would like, I ran mine under the carpet on the passenger side and then through the ovel shaped grommet where the harness comes through, obviously you only have so many feet to work with so test measure first. Mount Nitrous Management Unit keeping in mind that the nozzle lines are only 2' long so this must be within a 2' range of the air intake. I mounted mine under air intake but this area is unavailable to those with the stock air box so mounting on the side of the engine bay is also an option. You can now attach the nitrous feed line.
attach the OUT lines to the NMU and then decide where you'd like to install the nozzle. The nozzle must be placed after the MAF meter and at least 4" upstream of the TB. It is easiest to remove the elbow Before drilling. Also keep in mind that the nozzle opens at an angle and must be aimed up into the air intake for proper flow.also be aware that the hood must be able to close with the nozzle in so mount the nozzle at a side angle on the elbow. Be careful when drilling as you don't want to put a second hole through the bottom of it and be sure to clean out rubber shavings before re- installing
Located behind the alternator, the shrader valve is the perfect place alternator, the shrader valve is the perfect place to tap into the fuel system. Once you have relieved fuel pressure from the system by Pulling the electrical plug at the bottom of the red inertia switch located behind the paneling on the drivers side rear in the trunk,run the car until it dies. You can then remove the cap and remove the fitting from the schrader valve and screw in the line for FUEL IN. Be aware that fuel is going to come out of the valve after pressure is relieved, use a shop towel to help contain the fuel. Now that all the lines have been run the NMU must be set up to operate at WOT. This can be done by attaching the white wire from the NMU to the green wire coming from the TPS sensor. This is output voltage line. I used bite Connectors (you can buy them at radioshack for $2).
next, the arming switch must also be Installed as to supply power to the NMU. Run the red wire through the fire wall and attach it to the arming switch (I mounted mine on the side of the steering column, there isn't really any better place to put it without drilling huge holes in the dash). You must then run a wire off the arming switch to a 12v power source under the dash. I Used a fuse tap ($2 at oriellys) and got power from the A/C fuse.Once that is complete, attach the black ground wire coming from the NMU to a ground source using a crimp on O-ring. Now the nmu should have power when the arming switch is flipped on. Next, "Turn the cars ignition on but DON'T START IT. Turn the arming switch to ON, then go to the NMU and located the 'Push Button'. Depress it, and then release it. Observe the NMU's operation light. At this point it should be RED. The RED light informs you that the NMU's activation switch is in the 'LEARN' Mode. Go back to the inside of the car and depress the gas pedal to the floor for 10 seconds. Release the pedal and go back to the NMU and observe the operation light. At this point the light should be flashing continuously from RED to GREEN to OFF. This is the NMU's way of telling you that it has successfully learned the voltage curve of your motor's TPS. Go back inside your car and turn OFF the arming switch, then turn it back ON. Go back to the NMU and observe the operation light. It should be solid GREEN. This informs you that the system is armed and ready to activate at WOT. Return back to the driver's seat and depress and release the gas pedal several times. You should now be able to hear the solenoid 'click' each time you reach WOT. Your activation switch is fully programmed and ready for use" from corral
Now your nitrous system is fully installed and ALMOST ready for use.
The final checklist includes buying 1-2 step colder spark plugs (I used autolite 23's gapped to .35)
A nitrous bottle pressure gauge ( operation PSI is between 950-100psi. you can operate below this PSI but you will notice a significant loss in power.) I got the zex version from summit for $40.
Also, timing must be retarded to the specs in the manual, I'm running a 125 shot so for me it ZEX suggested 4* retard to stay on the safe side. i am running at 10* base timing and have yet to have any problems.
Feel free to post any comments or corrections as well as any questions.
First, Mount bottle brackets on right side of spare tire well ( I had to lower gas tank to bolt them in firmly but there are other ways of securing them) this is a good start because it helps determine where you will mount the nmu later
Strap in bottle and run line any way you would like, I ran mine under the carpet on the passenger side and then through the ovel shaped grommet where the harness comes through, obviously you only have so many feet to work with so test measure first. Mount Nitrous Management Unit keeping in mind that the nozzle lines are only 2' long so this must be within a 2' range of the air intake. I mounted mine under air intake but this area is unavailable to those with the stock air box so mounting on the side of the engine bay is also an option. You can now attach the nitrous feed line.
attach the OUT lines to the NMU and then decide where you'd like to install the nozzle. The nozzle must be placed after the MAF meter and at least 4" upstream of the TB. It is easiest to remove the elbow Before drilling. Also keep in mind that the nozzle opens at an angle and must be aimed up into the air intake for proper flow.also be aware that the hood must be able to close with the nozzle in so mount the nozzle at a side angle on the elbow. Be careful when drilling as you don't want to put a second hole through the bottom of it and be sure to clean out rubber shavings before re- installing
Located behind the alternator, the shrader valve is the perfect place alternator, the shrader valve is the perfect place to tap into the fuel system. Once you have relieved fuel pressure from the system by Pulling the electrical plug at the bottom of the red inertia switch located behind the paneling on the drivers side rear in the trunk,run the car until it dies. You can then remove the cap and remove the fitting from the schrader valve and screw in the line for FUEL IN. Be aware that fuel is going to come out of the valve after pressure is relieved, use a shop towel to help contain the fuel. Now that all the lines have been run the NMU must be set up to operate at WOT. This can be done by attaching the white wire from the NMU to the green wire coming from the TPS sensor. This is output voltage line. I used bite Connectors (you can buy them at radioshack for $2).
next, the arming switch must also be Installed as to supply power to the NMU. Run the red wire through the fire wall and attach it to the arming switch (I mounted mine on the side of the steering column, there isn't really any better place to put it without drilling huge holes in the dash). You must then run a wire off the arming switch to a 12v power source under the dash. I Used a fuse tap ($2 at oriellys) and got power from the A/C fuse.Once that is complete, attach the black ground wire coming from the NMU to a ground source using a crimp on O-ring. Now the nmu should have power when the arming switch is flipped on. Next, "Turn the cars ignition on but DON'T START IT. Turn the arming switch to ON, then go to the NMU and located the 'Push Button'. Depress it, and then release it. Observe the NMU's operation light. At this point it should be RED. The RED light informs you that the NMU's activation switch is in the 'LEARN' Mode. Go back to the inside of the car and depress the gas pedal to the floor for 10 seconds. Release the pedal and go back to the NMU and observe the operation light. At this point the light should be flashing continuously from RED to GREEN to OFF. This is the NMU's way of telling you that it has successfully learned the voltage curve of your motor's TPS. Go back inside your car and turn OFF the arming switch, then turn it back ON. Go back to the NMU and observe the operation light. It should be solid GREEN. This informs you that the system is armed and ready to activate at WOT. Return back to the driver's seat and depress and release the gas pedal several times. You should now be able to hear the solenoid 'click' each time you reach WOT. Your activation switch is fully programmed and ready for use" from corral
Now your nitrous system is fully installed and ALMOST ready for use.
The final checklist includes buying 1-2 step colder spark plugs (I used autolite 23's gapped to .35)
A nitrous bottle pressure gauge ( operation PSI is between 950-100psi. you can operate below this PSI but you will notice a significant loss in power.) I got the zex version from summit for $40.
Also, timing must be retarded to the specs in the manual, I'm running a 125 shot so for me it ZEX suggested 4* retard to stay on the safe side. i am running at 10* base timing and have yet to have any problems.
Feel free to post any comments or corrections as well as any questions.
