Anyone using cast/nodular iron stroker cranks?

[Bigstang1]

Basically what the title says...experiences with cast or nodular iron stroker cranks?

 

[Grn92LX]

I'm running a scat cast steel 3.40 crankshaft. Its plenty for my stock block combo. Forged cranks in a stock block do nothing but waste money and add weight to the rotating assembly.

 

[Bigstang1]

yea that makes sense...anyone else have an opinion?

 

[StangCollecter]

yea that makes sense...anyone else have an opinion?

if you are running spray (over 150 hp) or forced induction, I'd suggest going with Forged. These days a cast crank will be under 200 bucks, and a forged about 400, but after all the other parts, it adds up.

With me, i am planning a stroker build up this year. Either a 302 to 331, or a 351 to 393. Either way, I'll be using a cast steel crank, forged rods, and hyper pistons. I'll also be using a set of budget priced aluminum 225 heads from a supplier on ebay, where they are about 890 a set. I'll shoot for 10:5 to 1 compression, at most 11:0 to 1, and will run fuel injection. Then I will spend a little extra to get a cam cut to where I need it. If I go with the 331, I'll be looking for a safe 450 hp. The 393 and I'll want a safe 500. Safe = daily drivable (even tho I drive my cars under 10k a year) I want something that won't need a rebuild every year.

And it's fine to me if I need to run a vacuum cannister, and a high output alternator. But that all depends on the cam.

 

[Rick 91GT]

Any of the good brand name cast cranks should take 600hp or so, like Mike said more then a stock block will.

If your planning on a blower, go wih the forged crank since the snout will be much stronger. I also prefer a forged crank on a heavy dose N2O motor.

 

[89white50]

Im building a stock block NA 331. i chose a nodular iron cast crank. just make sure if your buyng new it has been magnafulxed, sonic tested, shot peened, nitrated, heat tread...all that good stuff. i dont plan on much more than 425 horse at the crank.