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Anyone ver heard metallic tink-tink noises from lower intake manifold???

  • Thread starter Thread starter monte87
  • Start date Start date May 4, 2006

monte87

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May 4, 2006
#1
  • May 4, 2006
  • #1
Guys-

Has anyone ever heard of metallic "tink-tink" noises coming from there lower intake manifold and T-stat housing before, when there water pump is going out? I know for a fact its not lifters, rockers or any valvetrain noises. mind you i have a leaky heater core too. mind you once i remove the serpentine belt, noises are instantly gone.
Whatta ya guys think here-Hit me with some 411- pleaseeeeeeeeee!

Mucho thanks-Anthony
SEMPER FI
 

monte87

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May 5, 2006
#2
  • May 5, 2006
  • #2
Anyone?????????????????????????????? i wonder if sometimes we all drive mustansg here....
 

FORCED2DV8

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#3
  • May 5, 2006
  • #3
Not unless its a lifter, maybe a rocker arm...
 

srothfuss

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#4
  • May 5, 2006
  • #4
+1 for never hearing tink tink style noises from the manifold after hard runs on the back roads. Maybe from the cats or hot exhaust, but never the engine itself.
 

monte87

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  • May 5, 2006
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I have a Tink-Tink, metallic noises coming from the lower manifold and T-stat housing-It gets very annoying and loud. Sometimes-it does it and other times not. Weird ****.
lifetrs.pushrods/rockers are all brand new and fully adjusted properly. this problem seems to be coming directly in the cooling system.... I pull the belt off-and the noise when present, dissapears completely... Whatta ya guys think?

Thanks Anthony
 

monte87

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#6
  • May 5, 2006
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i elimintaed the T-stat temporarily, So its not that....
 

TheBocSez

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#7
  • May 5, 2006
  • #7
Broken dog bone bouncing around in the lifter valley maybe?
 
R

Raginstang

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#8
  • May 6, 2006
  • #8
well come on man, you are headed in the right direction your self. by removing the belt, you have eliminated the valve train from the equation, you obviously have a bad pulley, water pump, or faulty tensioneer. grab the fan and wiggle it around, does the front nose of the water pump move? if so replace pump immediatly. if not, get a stethascope and listen to the pulleys while the engine is running, you can easily hear where its coming from. also, feel each pulley with your hand and check for loosness. you can tell if one spins rough. (please don't grab anything or poke anything directly onto the pulley while engine running!)
 
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Raginstang

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#9
  • May 6, 2006
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could also, be your timing chain getting loose. and slopping around, removing the accessories may take enough load off to stop it. Very doubltfull but just an idea. didn't mean to sound mean in my last post, just keep going with the belt off. you are on the right track.
 

monte87

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May 8, 2006
#10
  • May 8, 2006
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OK-She passed the test 3X..... This weekend we tested the car for a blown head gasket using the Sanp on-"Combustion block tester" and it passed 3 different times fluid remaing blue and never turning yellow. And just to see if the test was working-We placed the pump into the tailpaipe, and it turned yellow immediately-So no blown head gakset.
I highly doubt its the timing chain, brand new FMS part i put in @ the time of the AFR's and cam swap, so i dont suspect it. plus the noise is coming directly from the coolant system.
We were listening and feeling around, You get stroing pulsating on the T-stat housing and the upper rad hose, and water pump houses (bypass and heater core) big time. im starting to suspect the water pump. its sad-because its an Edelbrock hi flow-W?P that is ony 1 year old. But whatta ya guys think about this **** now????
Thanks Anthony
 

monte87

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May 22, 2006
#11
  • May 22, 2006
  • #11
Replaced W/P and still have noises!!! WTF!!!!!!

Well-Guys,

We can eliminate the water pump. Just replaced it with a WEIAND W/P and it still makes the dreaded noises. WTF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! What else can this be???
I mean-Can it be a faulty AFR head??? or a bad head gasket, but not show itself from overheating or any other symtom of a bad H/G????
i mean, i never had this problem until i added the AFR's heads. Everything was the same E7's and all-car ran great and zero noises. Add the AFR's-Bammmmmm, noises.
Please help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Ant
 

90mustangGT

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May 22, 2006
#12
  • May 22, 2006
  • #12
Very good chance it's the heads then. Did you pull the valve covers and let it run and see if you can locate the noise? A bad valve seat will make noise. Alumimum heads have steel seats inserted where the valves seat, and I have seen this problem on a car before, it was a mofo to find, but that was it.
 

monte87

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#13
  • Jun 5, 2006
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Done~!!!!!!!

the answer to the miserable 10 week ****ing problem is-a HEAD GASKET on backwards on the passenger side........
im proud to say-Its corrected, finished and done....... AMEN!
 

srothfuss

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  • Jun 5, 2006
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:woot:
 
T

Two95's

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#15
  • Jul 19, 2006
  • #15
Glad to hear your problem is solved.

I have the same problem with my new engine. My head gaskets are on correctly. Mine eventually runs about 240* or higher but never overheats. I mean it never pukes out coolant. Did yours ever run hot? I wondering if my heads have some kind of restriction. I got some cheap strike force heads from PBM. It's about to drive me nuts trying to figure this one out. It's like we are the only people to ever have this problem.
 

monte87

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#16
  • Jul 19, 2006
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Two95's said:
Glad to hear your problem is solved.

I have the same problem with my new engine. My head gaskets are on correctly. Mine eventually runs about 240* or higher but never overheats. I mean it never pukes out coolant. Did yours ever run hot? I wondering if my heads have some kind of restriction. I got some cheap strike force heads from PBM. It's about to drive me nuts trying to figure this one out. It's like we are the only people to ever have this problem.
Click to expand...

hey man-

It never ran hot, alwasy actually about 190-200 and thats with a mr. gasket 180 T-stat, and thats it... Even after beating on it-never any higher. @ about 180-200 is when that dreaded metallic noise would start and never stop. After removing the H/G on the passenger side-You could actually see whereabout the coolant was actually beating on and hitting the part of tha H/G trying to get through, It peeled the material away and you couldve seen steel. Some sick stuff!
I guess-In reality-It couldnt pass coolant through the back of the head and it bounced back through the lower part of the head-creating isolated overheating in the head and making noises via the T-stat housing and that area, Tink, Tink, Tink, Tink, Drove me nuts!!!!!!!!!!! for 10 weeks, Brytha i feel your pain....
Hope thsi 411 helps-Anthony
 

monte87

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Jul 19, 2006
#17
  • Jul 19, 2006
  • #17
It may just be your H/G's.... sad to say, i never though it was mine either, especially after having my bud who is an ace with head swaps and all, But i guess **** happens, and it can happen to anyone.
Oh and my heads were AFR's 165's.....
 
T

Two95's

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#18
  • Jul 20, 2006
  • #18
A couple of weeks ago I was working on it and saw what was making the noise. I ran it until it was hot enough to start making the noise. Then I let all of the pressure out of the system with my radiator cap and pulled the top radiator hose off of the thermostat housing. Started it back up and soon after water started spitting out like it was ****ing exploding! It would pop real loud every time water shot out.

Anyways, I'm going to start tearing it down this weekend and hopefully find something obvious. I had it machined and assembled by a local shop so maybe they overlooked something.
 
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