Anyone w. A/C experience out there? Need some tips & advise

[Tstang90]

Im lookin to swap out my A/C compressor. Anyone know if this is a home garage type swap? I see that theres special leak detecting lights they use for the system.
I know I need to change my air dryer that cylinder thing. Anythign else I shoudl look for?
Should I go r-12 or 134a?
Any one compare the 2 in the same car ? to see a difference?

I see the lines that go to my radiator look like they are leaking oil or did at one time? Any kind of tips you may have feel free to post away for me. Thanks

 

[PRO50SC]

There is a little more to that than just replacing parts. Is there still freon left in the system. You need a way of recovering it. Or were you planning on letting it go into the ozone? Any place you see signs of dampness or oil at a connection then you can be sure there was a leak at one time. You also need special tools to diconnect the fittings. You wiil need refrigerant oil to go in the new compressor and drier. You may need a new orifice tube as well. Did the old compressor lock up? What was the original problem that led you to where you are now? There are good R-12 substitutes out there that work just as well as the original. I would stick with the 12 system. Once your components are replaced then you will need a vacume pump to evacuate the system for about an hour. If you don't have access to one you should consider having this done by a qualified repair shop as this step is key to acheiving maximum results.Hope this hels out.

 

[Black331Stang]

your just changing your compressor?

 

[Tstang90]

Well the ac was charged the compressor wasnt just putting out the proper #'s. I dont recall what they were. It jsut doesnt blow cold air at all anymore. The compressor never locked up on me. So if Ithe compressor I need to have it vacummed out as well the system even if the freon is gone?

 

[Tstang90]

ttt

 

[YardSpecial]

With the price of R12 going threw the roof, time to covert it.

The best kit out there is unger $800 I think.

The add is in all the Mustang rags out there.


I riped mine all off, $800 buys lots of speed !

 

[Calypso Pony]

The kit I used for the conversion from R-12 to R-134 was only about $8-$10. It included both nipples for the swap. Your local parts store shouls have them, so try Checkers. That's if you guy's have those in your area. Yes, all the freon has to be recovered properly too. This I can't help you with cause mine leaked it on a trip. Mine was empty to say the least. Don't eliminate your ac system cause it sucks to have no a/c. The lines going to the radiator area if they are leaking you should replace the rubber seals in teh. You need those bs plastic bottle cap tools used on the fuel lines and they too are only about$10 or so. Fit the right one in the back of the ring thing, twist, and pull off the line. The rubber seals are only about 20 cents or so. Do this to both of them and replace as you go. Your total should not exceed $40 if you don't have to replace your compressor and is really easier than it looks. Good luck

 

[tvmango]

if it's warm, it probably low in freon.. if you compressor is cycling on and off, it works, don't change it,, the oil you see around the lines is a sign of a leak, the o-ring need to be changed on those lines,, who told you you need a reciver/drier? if it's bad,why? or the deccacent inside has broken apart you have alot more on your hand than you will want to tackle.. the light your talking about is a uv style black light and will show dye leaking out of areas. but it will work only if dye was put into the system..tell me more so I can help... tony

 

[Tstang90]

Ok I had it charged w R-12 2 yr ago at idle it wasnt blowing colder than if I recall like 70*. So I was told it was the Compressor as it wasnt putting out the right #'s. Now he said he wouldnt touch it unless he did the compressor and air dryer as it may of been contaminated and if it was he couldnt gurantee any of it unless he replaced both items. So that was what made me believe I needed to do this all. Now it blows out HOT as air.

 

[89 Saleen#455]

If your looking for automotive A/C expertise, check out http://www.aircondition.com/wwwboard/equipment/

Just do a search under "Mustang" or post your question. It's a board dedicated to automotive A/C questions. Huge help!

 

[rd]

Im lookin to swap out my A/C compressor. Anyone know if this is a home garage type swap? I see that theres special leak detecting lights they use for the system.
I know I need to change my air dryer that cylinder thing. Anythign else I shoudl look for?
Should I go r-12 or 134a?
Any one compare the 2 in the same car ? to see a difference?

I see the lines that go to my radiator look like they are leaking oil or did at one time? Any kind of tips you may have feel free to post away for me. Thanks

You can do this at home, but it has become such a pain that I don't anymore.

The least expensive way is to find a shop that will discharge and recover the r12 that is in it, and then you bring it home and change all the stuff that needs changing. As a minimum, you will need the compressor, with clutch, and the accumulator/dryer. A new orifice tube is also a good idea.

Worst case, assuming your system is empty, is to just change it all, and then have a shop evacuated and charge it.

Most parts stores want to see a receipt that says the rest of the system was flushed or they will not honor the compressor warranty also. I have a great local shop that lets me change all the parts that need changing, and does the flush, evacuate and charge thing.

I highly recommend changing to 134, as it is so much cheaper, and you can buy it yourself to recharge a system with a small leak.

If you have to change the compressor anyway, go ahead with 134.

If you are really cheap, yes, you can evacuate the system with a handheld Mityvac, I know, I have done it. You will get blisters on your hand pumping.

But I had ac the next day!!!

 

[Tstang90]

Thanks for the help guys.

 

[tvmango]

definately go with the 134 as stated above,,, you must have a restriction somewhere,, does your compressor cycle on and off normally? Do you see your lines icing up anywhere? If so the fat ones(low side) or thin ones (high side)???? Another common problem with all makes of cars is the blend door not shutting.. causing hot air from the heater core to rush in,, just a suggestion....