aod + carb = ?
- Thread starter Rich351
- Start date
12sec67
Active Member
Rich351 said:
i'm at work right know but i could take a picture of mine later when i get home in about an 1 hour
TampaStang
New Member
Here are some pictures of mine: (68 w roller 5.0/AOD)
Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake
Holley 750 Vac Sec
Holley TV adaptor (needed for proper geometry)
Lokar SRK-4000 tv plate
Lokar cable (cant remember model) Get it from summit $59
The red cable is for my B+M Hammer.
Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake
Holley 750 Vac Sec
Holley TV adaptor (needed for proper geometry)
Lokar SRK-4000 tv plate
Lokar cable (cant remember model) Get it from summit $59
The red cable is for my B+M Hammer.
12sec67
Active Member
geostang351
Member
Where did you get your AOD from?
TampaStang
New Member
TampaStang
New Member
This is a pic from when I was installing the tv stuff...
She aint pretty but all she needs is wiring and paint...
She aint pretty but all she needs is wiring and paint...
thehueypilot
Active Member
You really don't need the aftermarket TV cable on a early model Mustang. The kick down linkage works the same way. You need a 1:1 cable attachment which is what the kickdown cable does. What I mean by that is when your car is idling the TV lever on the transmission should be just off its closed position (about 3 psi on a gage) At wide open throttle the TV lever should be at its full open position. I have ran mine with this set up for the last three years with no issues. If this set up did not work my transmission would of burned up within the first 10 miles of driving it down the road.
redhotcomet
New Member
You don't need a special cable. I used a sheathed braided steel cable from the discount parts store. I don't have any pictures here, but on mine I put the carb lever arm on the other side of the carb with the arm pointing down. The arm is slotted so I could fine tune the length of the pull. The sheath is held in place by an attachment arm bolted to the intake manifold. At the trans end the sheath is also held by and attachment arm. This bolts onto the trans using factory bolt positons. I also think I put a return spring on the trans end to keep tension on the lever. I guess the main thing is that there can never be slack in the cable and the TV lever must move the same amount as the carb arm.
If the trans doesn't shift the first time out, this is the first thing to check. The first time I didn't have it set up right and it wouldnt shift. Readjusted it and it shifts pretty good now. I only have about 50 miles on it so far, but it hasn't self destructed yet.
I think mine is out of a 89 F-150
If the trans doesn't shift the first time out, this is the first thing to check. The first time I didn't have it set up right and it wouldnt shift. Readjusted it and it shifts pretty good now. I only have about 50 miles on it so far, but it hasn't self destructed yet.
I think mine is out of a 89 F-150
geostang351
Member
redhotcomet
New Member
I think it came out of a 2WD truck. If it was a 4WD I would think you would have problems. I'm not quite sure how the 4WD transmission/transfer case works.
No big problem with it, except I think I turned the shift shaft 180 degrees. Not too hard, just have to remove the pan, disassemble the linkage a little, and make sure it goes back together properly. Its probably a lot easier if the trans is not in the car to do this.
No big problem with it, except I think I turned the shift shaft 180 degrees. Not too hard, just have to remove the pan, disassemble the linkage a little, and make sure it goes back together properly. Its probably a lot easier if the trans is not in the car to do this.
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