AOD/kickdown help

bart

New Member
May 16, 2003
243
0
0
tn
alright follow along. i bought a torque converter off of one of my freinds. it was a B&M holeshot 2400. when the motor was stock it stalled at about that. i built the motor and the stall went somewhat away. it flashed around 1600-1700. i then bought a 65mm tb, the lever for the kickdown rod was a little further back than the stock one was. it left a little slack in the kickdown cable. NOW if i leave the slack out of it, it will stall about 1500, but it shifts terribly and way too soon. if i take up the slack, it shifts right, but i no longer have a stall, itll lunge at red lights actually. whats the deal??? im about half tempted to put my stock tb back on and see what happens. ive already talked to a guy that runs a tranny shop here, asked him about the tv pressure and he said its not determined by the cable, you have to set it inside and thats where your shifts come from. the cable just determines the place and time in which it kickdowns.........i dunno, im lost :shrug:


this summer im building my trans, its an AOD btw. i would do a t-5 conversion, but A) i dont feel like it, and b) i had a 5 speed on my 6-cyl and i got tired of it. dotn get me wrong it was fun, but from monday to thursday i hated it. but on the weekends it was great.
 
That tranny guy is wrong. THe AOD takes the thottle postion from the TV cable. It's not like the old C4's, that use vacuum for the shifting. If you don't get that adjust right, you stand the chance of frying your tranny. The stall could be one of many things, but I suspect that when you built the motor, it lost a fair amount of the low end torque, and that will affect the stall speed big time. The addition of the 65 TB, and loss of stall speed make me believe it even more. You may need to have the converter opened up and reset for your new combo.
 
Yes, set the TV cable the way it is supposed to be. If you error, do it on the tight side, not loose. When you have the gas pedal on the floor, you want the TV cable as close as you can be to the full pressure position on the trans, with out it getting to max too early.
 
ok i was thinkin that the cable did affect it but i dont know enough about it to even think about questioning.

now lemme get this straight....when you lose low end torque...your stall speed will go down? so if i were to put the stock tb back on.....the stall would comeback, any? what would i lose if i were to swap back...top end? i never really noticed much increase when i put the 65 on, but i did lose a fair amount of torque.
 
The only true way to adj that tv cable is with a pressure gauge that attatches to the tranny on the pass side.If you are experiencing short shifts it's to loose and your not building proper pressure at the right points which is why that tv cable exsists.

If i'm not mistaken you have to put trans in drive possition and at wot there should be no slack in cable in other words you should not be able to pull any extra cable out beyond your throtle linkage(towards the front of the car)



I went full manual valve body for this reason,to avoid the tv cable all together and to be able under wot short shift the tranny at will without having to build preset line pressures before the trans will shift.Even though you decided to go with a trans-go shift kit which is a good product,the only thing that allows you to do is hold line pressure but it will still shift when it wants to unless you get the tranny tuned exactly where the motor makes peak power and shifts itself right before the motor starts to fall off this is no easy task lots of trial and error.
 
I have read up on the transgo-hp shift kit and have it.It allows full manual control of shift points when you shift it manualy.It also readjust the governor for a little higher then normal automaic shift points.Many people think all shift kits do the same thing witch is wrong.Transgo make a regular shift kit for under 30 bucs that just fixes some problems that aod's have.The transgo-hp kit cost 100-150.