AOD quart capacity.
- Thread starter Makdaddymac
- Start date
12 quarts, if you drain the pan and the converter.
Put in about 6 quarts, start it, run through the gears SLOWLY a few times, shut it off. Add 3 or 4 more. Start and row through gears again. Check your fluid reading on a flat, level ground to see where you stand before you go pouring in the last two quarts. Sometimes there's enough fluid caught up in the valve body and such that you might not need all 12; other times, you may actually need just a wee bit more than 12.
Put in about 6 quarts, start it, run through the gears SLOWLY a few times, shut it off. Add 3 or 4 more. Start and row through gears again. Check your fluid reading on a flat, level ground to see where you stand before you go pouring in the last two quarts. Sometimes there's enough fluid caught up in the valve body and such that you might not need all 12; other times, you may actually need just a wee bit more than 12.
It sounds like your trans was out for a rebuild? If so, plan on a dry fill and it taking a bit more.
Also have enough to fill your stacked plate cooler (that you already installed, right?).
Good luck.
Also have enough to fill your stacked plate cooler (that you already installed, right?).
Good luck.
Ah. Didn't read the part about the rebuild. Probably going to be in the ballpark of close to 13 quarts ... maybe 14, with the stacked-plate cooler.
Plain Mercon/Dexron III will work just fine, but if you're starting fresh, you may as well upgrade to Mercon V - more pricey, but a far better fluid.
Plain Mercon/Dexron III will work just fine, but if you're starting fresh, you may as well upgrade to Mercon V - more pricey, but a far better fluid.
new problem now....i got it all in and when i put in reverse all was well then the line started leaking...i lost about 4-8ounces until i tunrd off the car... it seems that my fittings are shot!!!the two of them are leaking not at the threads but at like were the flare is/shoul be???
i dont know what im gonna do....these were the stock fitting...and the ones that came with the junkyard one are a little different(seems to better design)...but the only solution i though of was to cut the old fitting off and use the junk fittings and join the pipe with fuel hoses and clamps???? but its to close to the exhaust?? and will probably melt??? i cant find nothing online about the complete lines??? so what to do>>>
ps. i also put in a high stall 2k-2.6k and everything works all gears shift,i only have the dripping lines.....
but i get this sound equivalent to a worn out or low fluid PSterring Pump only about 2x louder!??? could it be my stall??? it only does it randomly no pattern to the noise or length of the noise. and it seems that it doenst do it while in D only in P....??!?!?!???!?!?!?!
ahhhh so close to getting to run......
i dont know what im gonna do....these were the stock fitting...and the ones that came with the junkyard one are a little different(seems to better design)...but the only solution i though of was to cut the old fitting off and use the junk fittings and join the pipe with fuel hoses and clamps???? but its to close to the exhaust?? and will probably melt??? i cant find nothing online about the complete lines??? so what to do>>>
ps. i also put in a high stall 2k-2.6k and everything works all gears shift,i only have the dripping lines.....
but i get this sound equivalent to a worn out or low fluid PSterring Pump only about 2x louder!??? could it be my stall??? it only does it randomly no pattern to the noise or length of the noise. and it seems that it doenst do it while in D only in P....??!?!?!???!?!?!?!
ahhhh so close to getting to run......
My AOD does the same thing sometimes when it gets about a quart low on fluid. When warm and in park, that weird whining/whirring sound fades in. If I tap the throttle just a bit, it goes away with the rise in RPM's, but comes back as they come back down. Pull the dipstick with it warmed up and idling in park, and see where your fluid level is at.
Also, did you use Teflon tape or any other kind of thread sealer on your tranny line fittings? Could be something as simple as that.
Also, did you use Teflon tape or any other kind of thread sealer on your tranny line fittings? Could be something as simple as that.
Hmmm. It sounds like the front of the lines' fittings aren't seating fully against the base of the radiator's tranny line bungs. Those lines shouldn't be able to be jiggled about in there like that - they're the same as the brake lines coming off the side of your master cylinder, once they're seated they should be firmly affixed in place and not able to be wiggled around.
Is this the same set of tranny lines and radiator that you'd had bolted together before having the tranny serviced? Could be that there's a difference in the fittings you're using. Like, the lines may be a flare fitting of one kind, but the hole(s) in the radiator aren't the same. Hard to describe. Look through a bunch of brake line and pipe fittings in a Dorman drawer at a local Autozone or Checker or whatever, and you'll see what I mean. Some have a flat front edge, others have a beveled front edge or inside lip, and so one will not thread into another and seat correctly.
If your tranny cooler lines and/or the radiator have changed, then it's likely that you just need to use a couple of brass brake line or transmission cooler adapters (don't forget the Teflon). Again, try looking through the Dorman drawers at your local parts store(s), and also look over by where they sell their aftermarket tranny coolers, as they'll usually have a packaged assortment of adapters available there - I had to use a pair of 'em when I added a stacked-plate B&M tranny cooler to a 94 Cougar I used to have.
Don't try to RTV the fittings, as it won't prevent leakage in this instance, and you'll just gum things up.
Is this the same set of tranny lines and radiator that you'd had bolted together before having the tranny serviced? Could be that there's a difference in the fittings you're using. Like, the lines may be a flare fitting of one kind, but the hole(s) in the radiator aren't the same. Hard to describe. Look through a bunch of brake line and pipe fittings in a Dorman drawer at a local Autozone or Checker or whatever, and you'll see what I mean. Some have a flat front edge, others have a beveled front edge or inside lip, and so one will not thread into another and seat correctly.
If your tranny cooler lines and/or the radiator have changed, then it's likely that you just need to use a couple of brass brake line or transmission cooler adapters (don't forget the Teflon). Again, try looking through the Dorman drawers at your local parts store(s), and also look over by where they sell their aftermarket tranny coolers, as they'll usually have a packaged assortment of adapters available there - I had to use a pair of 'em when I added a stacked-plate B&M tranny cooler to a 94 Cougar I used to have.
Don't try to RTV the fittings, as it won't prevent leakage in this instance, and you'll just gum things up.
