Just so I understand things better, how can you have 3 shafts and be set up for non lockup? .. I thought the 3/4 inner shaft ran straight from the 3rd gear clutch pack to a splined hole in the back of the TC housing and the whole advantage of going non lockup was to eliminate that weak point of the 3/4" lockup shaft. What am I missing here?
You just don't seem to get it. A manual valve body does not indicate non-lockup. Passing 3rd to get to first means NOTHING. You had to pass 3rd to get to 1st on a stocker. And he is right it will trash it.I'm set up for non-lockup because i must pass 3rd to get to 1st which sometimes causes the undesirable "BANG" and my engine to shut off. I talked to my transmission guy today in person. He said that over time that will cause damage. An AOD shifting manually is about as normal as one locking up and shutting down.
You just don't seem to get it. A manual valve body does not indicate non-lockup. Passing 3rd to get to first means NOTHING. You had to pass 3rd to get to 1st on a stocker. And he is right it will trash it.
I understand all of that. I rebuilt transmissions for years. Lock up is not supposed to LOCK at idle. So what you have is a LOCK-UP that is locking when 3rd is selected. This all makes sense to me. So here is the issue, you need a non-locking converter for your current valve body. So when you have it in any gear it never locks (converters never do really lock unless they are lock-up, they have some slip) until it hits stall speed then it will move. The other possibility is that the valve body and converter are ok together but the valve body or channel plate gaskets are wrong allowing fluid to reach the converters lock up feature at the wrong engine speed. Or the valve is stuck open in the valve body. Generally the converter wont lock until a certain speed.
I'd bet he just got the wrong valve body or channel plate gaskets installed. Happens easily. All it takes it one hole wrong to misroute fluid. In any case, know that you indeed had a lock-up style converter.
Don't even get me started on those things. We get that A LOT around me. What gets them is having fast idle when the engine is cold, people just throw them in reverse. Full line pressure in reverse plus a high idle does it in easily. Cheap ass stamped steel POS's. You can get "The Beast" through the aftermarket. It's a little thicker and holds up to a bit more.Never had it on an AOD but I used to do them like tune up parts on 4l60-4l60e's all the time.
The new hardened GM one is better but still a joke. I tell people just make sure it idles down before you ram reverse and have your foot off the brake so it can rock a little. I did that sun shell like a tune up part. Pull the trans, replace it, run it out before lunch.Don't even get me started on those things. We get that A LOT around me. What gets them is having fast idle when the engine is cold, people just throw them in reverse. Full line pressure in reverse plus a high idle does it in easily. Cheap ass stamped steel POS's. You can get "The Beast" through the aftermarket. It's a little thicker and holds up to a bit more.
Definitely making the dealership some money since you're blowing the 8 hour R&R time outta the water lol. We don't even JUST replace the sun shell anymore. They get a full rebuild, unless of course it's low mileage. We used to just replace the shell when it was needed, but shortly down the line when the rest of the trans burned up, the customer would come in and b*tch and complain saying it was our fault and that we should fix it for free. So we only do full builds or they can go on down the road. I'm not a huge fan of the 4L60E, but I definitely like them more than the 700R4.The new hardened GM one is better but still a joke. I tell people just make sure it idles down before you ram reverse and have your foot off the brake so it can rock a little. I did that sun shell like a tune up part. Pull the trans, replace it, run it out before lunch.
The thing is, we've taken all the internals from the problem case, put in another case, and it works like a charm. The '06 we had, all that we replaced to solve the issue was the center section of the case. It worked like a charm and we haven't seen it backBand is only 2+4th. Yes I have had the issue. You have a slipping sprag. (one way roller clutch) You can not make it slip by hand but it will in the truck under load. You may see marks on it when you take the center out but most times you won't. That's the slip..I'm thinking about why you burned up the clutches..OH. YES..you have a bad input clutch housing. It leaks out the shaft (small crack) or the check balls in the end. Again, you usually don't see the crack. You can buy the housing for about $100.00 from GM. And you are correct, if it is over 100k I rebuild, under I replace the sun shell. Its easy to beat the time on NEW cars at a dealer when everything is new. Especially when you do one after the other.
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