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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-

AOD TO T-5 swap parts list

  • Thread starter Thread starter Makdaddymac
  • Start date Start date Feb 13, 2008
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Makdaddymac

New Member
May 28, 2005
323
1
0
orlando
Feb 13, 2008
#1
  • Feb 13, 2008
  • #1
So far this is what i got,so tell me the stuff i need!!!!!!!

`good t-5
`shifter,shifter plat cover,(everything but a nice knob and matching leather boot)
`bell housing with cover plate( i guess starter index plate)
`flywheel(needs resurfaced)
`pedal assembly
`after market clutch quadrant
`ford racing king cobra clutch
`center force dual friction pressure plate, th one with the weight-ring **** (great shape)((need resurfaced))
`clutch cable
`harness for backup
`sack of bolts

according to my list and fact the parts i have are recommend to replace,
i need
`pivot ball
`pilot bearing
`throw out bearing
`speedometer gear(for 3.73"s/future plan)
`t5 cross member,he told me the auto and the t5 are not necessary to replace,but he has one for me that he needs to pull, if i need it???
so about another 80 in parts,and im tackling this little sob!!!!

what about tranny mounts? i have a new one for my aod, will it be the same, and what do i do for the h-pipe holder(exhasut/mid pipe holder)? i want to keep the stock h-pipe,well im going to modify it a little (SHHH!!!)

anything else to make the job easier and complete cause im going to try to knock the swap out in 1-3 days(depending on how it goes) so i want everything ready to rumble!!!!!
 

5.0 Nostalgia

10 Year Member
Feb 28, 2003
904
5
39
CT
Feb 13, 2008
#2
  • Feb 13, 2008
  • #2
I have never done the swap, but I have been told that it is best to do the pedal assembly first when you have the time because it is the hardest part and if it takes longer than you thought, you can still drive the car as an auto with the manual pedal.

I am pretty sure the AOD trans mount is the same. The hanger bracket should fit fine, but if it doesn't you can just leave it off. Depending on what year the T5 is, you may want to change the internal speedometer gear while the tranmission is out. If it's a later T5, you will not get the speedometer accurate without changing it unless you have 3.73's. If that's not important, don't worry about it.
 

Bay_Stang

New Member
Nov 25, 2007
22
0
1
sacramento CA
Feb 13, 2008
#3
  • Feb 13, 2008
  • #3
the aod cross member is the same the exhaust hanger is different. 5.0 nostalgia is correct the pedals are the hardest part. u'll need to re-route the speedo cable, becuz the clutch cable goes in that spot. but my lil piece of advice is to get jeg's adjustable clutch cable kit. its like 100 bucks but its well worth it. take ur time i did my whole swap for around 600 bucks. its not that bad. and when ur done its like ur drivin a whole new car. nuthin better than dumping the clutch and lightin'em up
 

mustang302fan

New Member
Feb 11, 2003
7
0
1
Wichita, KS
Feb 13, 2008
#4
  • Feb 13, 2008
  • #4
i just got done swapping a t-5 into my ride. the clutch pedal assembly was a pita!!! other than that the tranny lined up fine on the cross member and the aod back light wiring works with the t-5. the only thing i don't have is a neutral safety switch hooked up and no exhaust hanger for the h-pipe. pretty easy swap in my opinion. took me 20 hours working slow over 2 saturdays.
 

LiquidGT

Member
Oct 8, 2007
368
0
16
Near STL hell
Feb 13, 2008
#5
  • Feb 13, 2008
  • #5
I did a t-5 swap aside from the pedals, putting the H-pipe on the exhaust hanger other PITA for me.
 
M

Makdaddymac

New Member
May 28, 2005
323
1
0
orlando
Feb 14, 2008
#6
  • Feb 14, 2008
  • #6
which hanger is for manual?
1)http://i19.ebayimg.com/01/i/000/d8/ce/bc12_1.JPG
2)http://i18.ebayimg.com/06/i/000/d8/ce/a5e5_1.JPG
 
M

Makdaddymac

New Member
May 28, 2005
323
1
0
orlando
Feb 14, 2008
#7
  • Feb 14, 2008
  • #7
i also got the seat out amd the, hood release out the way, i started on the steering column nuts, but it got dark so i quit...........
 

Darkwriter77

Resident Ranting Negative Nancy
5 Year Member
Jul 1, 2005
314
281
134
Apache Junction, AZ
Feb 14, 2008
#8
  • Feb 14, 2008
  • #8
I thought to use the AOD crossmember, you had to grind off the spot welds on the side bushings to adjust the thing back a bit...?

Also, why would there be a difference in exhaust hangers between the AOD and T-5, if the H-pipe mounts in the same location...?

Just wondering, so I don't get any nasty surprises whenever I get around to doing my own swap.
 

5.0 Nostalgia

10 Year Member
Feb 28, 2003
904
5
39
CT
Feb 14, 2008
#9
  • Feb 14, 2008
  • #9
Makdaddymac said:
which hanger is for manual?
1)http://i19.ebayimg.com/01/i/000/d8/ce/bc12_1.JPG
2)http://i18.ebayimg.com/06/i/000/d8/ce/a5e5_1.JPG
Click to expand...

2
 
M

Makdaddymac

New Member
May 28, 2005
323
1
0
orlando
Feb 15, 2008
#10
  • Feb 15, 2008
  • #10
Darkwriter77 said:
I thought to use the AOD crossmember, you had to grind off the spot welds on the side bushings to adjust the thing back a bit...?

Also, why would there be a difference in exhaust hangers between the AOD and T-5, if the H-pipe mounts in the same location...?

Just wondering, so I don't get any nasty surprises whenever I get around to doing my own swap.
Click to expand...

yah im with this guy^
 

Jaswir

Member
Mar 31, 2005
578
0
18
Orlando, FL
Feb 15, 2008
#11
  • Feb 15, 2008
  • #11
yes the cross member is the same... well atleast it was in my 92... the exhaust hanger is different... i ended up using the old one just because the hangers on the pipe just fit in enough... i would recommand getting the right one for the t5
 

Darkwriter77

Resident Ranting Negative Nancy
5 Year Member
Jul 1, 2005
314
281
134
Apache Junction, AZ
Feb 15, 2008
#12
  • Feb 15, 2008
  • #12
The hangers on H- and X-pipes area PITA to put in, anyways. I'm just wondering what it is, exactly, that makes the difference between the T-5 and the AOD crossmembers any different. Is one farther back/forward or higher/lower than the other, or is one spread farther apart, or ... or ... what? I mean, assuming that all factory H-pipes were created equally, then wouldn't that mean they would have to poke into the same location for a hanger on either transmission...?
 

Bay_Stang

New Member
Nov 25, 2007
22
0
1
sacramento CA
Feb 15, 2008
#13
  • Feb 15, 2008
  • #13
hey dark writer. the reason the hangers are different is the mounting point for the speedo cable is different. where its located on the t5 is directly above the exhaust hanger. soo u'll end up with such an extreme angle on the speed sensor and cable that the speedo wont work. it took me a long time to figure this out. hence i havnt had a speedo since i did my swap 2 years ago. the manual specific hanger is angled back to allow use of the speed sensor. heres the one for the manual. View attachment 330168
the auto one doesnt curve back at all.
 

Darkwriter77

Resident Ranting Negative Nancy
5 Year Member
Jul 1, 2005
314
281
134
Apache Junction, AZ
Feb 15, 2008
#14
  • Feb 15, 2008
  • #14
Aaaaah-HA! I guess this explains why I had such a PITA of a time dealing with getting the VSS out and back on the '89 notch I had (now Frankenstang's) - it was an AOD-to-T5 swap. It fits, but it's such a damned tight squeeze that it ain't exactly a pleasant job just removing that one bolt and pulling the thing out. I still have no clue how the hell that retaining clip for the speedo cable is supposed to fit onto the VSS, as it was such a tight fit in there I never could bother screwing with it. (It's stayed in there just fine for over 2 years without any problems, though.)

Now that I think about it, the VSS and hanger on Frankenstang's Capri is exactly the same way. I wonder if maybe she's got an AOD crossmember in hers by chance, too, since a lot of the stuff in her '80 Capri was swapped in from a '90 Mustang...?

Sooooo, if the only difference is that the hanger is simply angled back to allow clearance for the VSS and speedo cable ... couldn't one simply cut off about 1" from the foremost portion of the exhaust hanger (where it's near the VSS and cable) and call it done? I mean, it's not like the H- or X-pipe puts THAT much strain on the hanger that cutting back some of it is going to matter. Just a suggestion, as it might save a person a lot of hassle in having to go hunt down (and/or buy) one of those hangers to do the swap. Just thinking of ways of safely cutting corners to keep the cost/labor down on the swap...
 
M

Makdaddymac

New Member
May 28, 2005
323
1
0
orlando
Feb 16, 2008
#15
  • Feb 16, 2008
  • #15
im all about saving money
i still need
`pivot ball
`pilot bearing
`throw out bearing
`clutch adjuster
`speedometer gear(for 3.73"s/future plan)

MY SWAP QUESTIONS!!!!!!!!!
.5)!!!!!!!!!!t5 cross member,not sure about this, but i'm learning that i will need a t5 exhaust hanger unless it coule be modded......
1)so besides the exhaust and cross member question.
2)i was wondering about the swap. I already pulled the seat out, and the hood release.... but i noticed a metal bar going across the underneath dash, that would stop me from pulling the column down, but my instructions never say nothing about it? but i guess it has to come apart?
3) do i want to put the the clutch cable with the big bulky dohicky inside the car or in the engine compartment?
4)also i do not have the firewall adjuster yet and dont know they attacht to the cable? should i wait to have this part or will it just snap on later?
5) about the speedo gear, do i just want one for 3.73's if i plan to put them in later?
 

5.0 Nostalgia

10 Year Member
Feb 28, 2003
904
5
39
CT
Feb 16, 2008
#16
  • Feb 16, 2008
  • #16
Makdaddymac said:
im all about saving money
i still need
`pivot ball
`pilot bearing
`throw out bearing
`clutch adjuster
`speedometer gear(for 3.73"s/future plan)

MY SWAP QUESTIONS!!!!!!!!!
.5)!!!!!!!!!!t5 cross member,not sure about this, but i'm learning that i will need a t5 exhaust hanger unless it coule be modded......
1)so besides the exhaust and cross member question.
2)i was wondering about the swap. I already pulled the seat out, and the hood release.... but i noticed a metal bar going across the underneath dash, that would stop me from pulling the column down, but my instructions never say nothing about it? but i guess it has to come apart?
3) do i want to put the the clutch cable with the big bulky dohicky inside the car or in the engine compartment?
4)also i do not have the firewall adjuster yet and dont know they attacht to the cable? should i wait to have this part or will it just snap on later?
5) about the speedo gear, do i just want one for 3.73's if i plan to put them in later?
Click to expand...

.5) If you want to save money, don't even use the hanger bracket. You don't need it.

3) I am not sure what you are asking, but you install the clutch cable by sliding the end that has the big white plastic piece through the firewall. Go into the car and pull that end down and hook it to the quadrant. Then route it to the clutch fork, connect it, then adjust.

4) If you don't have the firewall adjuster, I would wait until you have it. You have to pull that rubber piece behind the white plastic piece off, cut the burrs off that hold it on, then slide the firewall adjuster on.

5) Do this when you get the gears. I don't know what year your T5 is from, but you may want to change the internal gear in the tailshaft now if you want the speedometer to be accurate.
 
M

Makdaddymac

New Member
May 28, 2005
323
1
0
orlando
Feb 17, 2008
#17
  • Feb 17, 2008
  • #17
more ?'s
i dropped my column,but i think i have to pull it out cause im going to brake it or mess something up if i dont get that sob out of there.......is this recomended or necessary or am i just female dogging!
1) so the white plastic piece stays under the hood and feed the skinny side through the firewall to the quadrant??? i have never done any cable work so??? yah!!!????
2)the 23tooth gear(white) i heard gets it as accurate as i can without doin all that internal ****...i just want to be close. a 10+-mph inst a concern for me. i just don't want no 50mph!!!! only going 10mph.lol..
3) do i have to get a different plastic piece, around the shifter??? or will the t-5 handle fit in that one and i just get an after market boot, and handle etc...
 

LiquidGT

Member
Oct 8, 2007
368
0
16
Near STL hell
Feb 17, 2008
#18
  • Feb 17, 2008
  • #18
Makdaddymac said:
more ?'s
i dropped my column,but i think i have to pull it out cause im going to brake it or mess something up if i dont get that sob out of there.......is this recomended or necessary or am i just female dogging!
1) so the white plastic piece stays under the hood and feed the skinny side through the firewall to the quadrant??? i have never done any cable work so??? yah!!!????
2)the 23tooth gear(white) i heard gets it as accurate as i can without doin all that internal ****...i just want to be close. a 10+-mph inst a concern for me. i just don't want no 50mph!!!! only going 10mph.lol..
3) do i have to get a different plastic piece, around the shifter??? or will the t-5 handle fit in that one and i just get an after market boot, and handle etc...
Click to expand...

Make life eaiser and take the steering column out.

1.?? The skinny side goes to the bellhousing?

2. I heard the 23 tooth gear wears out in a couple of months, as it is not a Ford gear.

3. The aod and t5 trim is different, you can try to put a boot on the aod one if you're on a budget. I'm running t5 trim with no leather right now.
 
M

Makdaddymac

New Member
May 28, 2005
323
1
0
orlando
Feb 18, 2008
#19
  • Feb 18, 2008
  • #19
mods, can you relable this thread as aod to t-5 conversion progress!!!!

got my steering column out and the rain started
im moving along slowly and really enjoying it more, all mods should be done in moderation!!!!!!!lol...
got the clutch adjuster coming, and im going to order the needed parts..

1) so will the aod trim work or will the shifter bang it and not alow for you to put in 5th or reverse etc etc... cause i think the manual trims hole is too big. i think im just going to cut my open a little sand it down and repaint it!!!!!!!!! and im going to buy this metal pedal kit, that comes with boot,shifter,pedals,tire pressure caps!lol....rice but its what i need!
 

mustang302fan

New Member
Feb 11, 2003
7
0
1
Wichita, KS
Feb 18, 2008
#20
  • Feb 18, 2008
  • #20
just buy the upper and lower shifter boots and a new trim ring. its not that expensive and the shifter will come perfectly through the hole. like this
 
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