Thanks! Sorry, this showed up late on my phone. Hopefully the second pic can be of some help anyway
Thanks! Sorry, this showed up late on my phone. Hopefully the second pic can be of some help anywayI’ll have to look in my car tomorrow as I have that area open and unplugged. I should have the same wire.
Probing the pigtail, putting the trans in gear or in neutral causes no change, continuity is the same. Pushing the clutch in causes the 200 Ohm setting to go from 00.6 to 00.0. Which means less resistance, yeah?I think it’s this. This is one spot where the 1987 EVTM differs from the 88-later cars. Probably means that plug you are holding is a 1987 only plug
if you break out your digital multimeter, you likely have continuity on light blue/yellow to pin 30 on the ECU.
According to the diagram, the two wires on the connector should show continuity when the trans nuetral sense switch is closed. If you tough a probe to each terminate with the trans in nuetral, does it show as closed?
Does this sound like it could plausibly be the NSS itself just being bad? It’s original to the donor T5 car that was carbed and had no wiring hooked up, so it could’ve been long dead and noone would know. I’ll have to get out there tomorrow unless it quits rainingYou won’t have continuity to the ECU on the black wire unless the trans switch (nss) is closed. It almost sounds like it’s not closing for some odd reason.
also, it appears the wiring diagram does not correctly include the clutch switch as it has an effect on your readings but isn’t shown in the Ford diagrams. Sadly I’ve seen this before where there are errors like this.
key on, engine off. Trans in gear (so NSS is open) Prob the blue/yellow wire to ground. Do you have voltage?
key off, trans in nuetral, do you have continuity from black/white to pin 30? You should
Does this sound like it could plausibly be the NSS itself just being bad? It’s original to the donor T5 car that was carbed and had no wiring hooked up, so it could’ve been long dead and noone would know. I’ll have to get out there tomorrow unless it quits raining
Well, now my car is acting like it’s been beaten since i messed with electrical connections. I just drove it to Kroger and it had weird throttle response, misfires, and it left me stranded there. Wont start now. I’ve taken the ECU home because I figure that connecting the open NSS pigtail to the 12V fuel door release pigtail probably cooked something. Makes me wanna bang my head on a wall… Maybe I fried pin 46 by doing that and now I’m missing a lot of sensor input? I couldn’t find any reference pics online for what a fried pin 46 looks like and my ECU appears mostly alright, would anyone happen to have a pic?I would suspect the NSS in this case. You really need to confirm that circuit is intact as it looks like it's not closing in nuetral
ECU doesn’t have any visible burns on either side of the circuit board, unless it’s hiding under the plastic 60 pin area. I messed with a lot of wires recently, even under the hood, so i dont know what the hell could’ve done thisWell, now my car is acting like it’s been beaten since i messed with electrical connections. I just drove it to Kroger and it had weird throttle response, misfires, and it left me stranded there. Wont start now. I’ve taken the ECU home because I figure that connecting the open NSS pigtail to the 12V fuel door release pigtail probably cooked something. Makes me wanna bang my head on a wall… Maybe I fried pin 46 by doing that and now I’m missing a lot of sensor input? I couldn’t find any reference pics online for what a fried pin 46 looks like and my ECU appears mostly alright, would anyone happen to have a pic?
Found my cooked ECU trace. Picture with red is mine, other is a reference pic i found. For anyone else looking for the burn, it’s on the back side of the circuit board. Was causing my car to have a no start when hot and bad drivability problems. Once i fix this I’ll get back to my other issue lol… DONT PLUG YOUR OPEN NSS PIGTAIL INTO THE FUEL DOOR RELEASE PIGTAIL. They fit perfectly even down to the connector tabs, but it’ll cook your computer! Gotta go solder it upECU doesn’t have any visible burns on either side of the circuit board, unless it’s hiding under the plastic 60 pin area. I messed with a lot of wires recently, even under the hood, so i dont know what the hell could’ve done this
Blue/yellow to ground doesn’t show any voltage with key on.You won’t have continuity to the ECU on the black wire unless the trans switch (nss) is closed. It almost sounds like it’s not closing for some odd reason.
also, it appears the wiring diagram does not correctly include the clutch switch as it has an effect on your readings but isn’t shown in the Ford diagrams. Sadly I’ve seen this before where there are errors like this.
key on, engine off. Trans in gear (so NSS is open) Prob the blue/yellow wire to ground. Do you have voltage?
key off, trans in nuetral, do you have continuity from black/white to pin 30? You should
Putting in the fuses didn’t seem to change any results. Also, I thought that the clear plug was for the NSS and the brown was for clutch safety?Not sure, Obly because the wiring diagram doesn’t show it. I believe it should be.
you can pull the clear/gray plug off and jump it with the fuse to simulate clutch in. If you do that and test for continuity, does the look to the nss show as closed?
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