aode shifting at 55!

CManT1914 said:

One of my best friends has been wrenching on fords for 30 years, has owned about 10 different racer cars (and I mean 11 second cars) and still calls them 4.11's from time to time. Is something wrong with him? No, cus he still knows a helluva lot more than you or me.

Back on topic, we need to know what kind of stuff you have done to the 94. Are you not sure what gears you have? There's an easy way to tell.

Jack the rear of the car up, put it in neutral. Mark the top of the driveshaft and the top of the wheel. Now turn the wheel 1 full rotation. Count how many times the driveshaft rotates. If it rotates two and three quartes, you have 2.73's, if it rotates three and a half, you have 3.55's, four times, and you have 4.10's. It's easy, and a sure way of telling what gears are in your stang.

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or if your sure it has stock gears you can check the axle code on the sticker that is on the door jam.
M = 2.73
Z = 3.08
E = 3.27

331 stang91 said:

sometimes people make a mistake or think the wrong thing. Thanks for pointing it out so nicely. I guess something must be wrong with me? well I'll try to answer my own question then thank for everything

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sorry, i wasnt trying to be mean. But what is done to the 94????????? and gears would make you shift sooner in the MPH, not in the RPM.

Mustangless said:

or if your sure it has stock gears you can check the axle code on the sticker that is on the door jam.
M = 2.73
Z = 3.08
E = 3.27

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Yep. I forgot all about that sticker.

first of all, yep you def got 2.73's in there, my auto will shift at the same mph, and is around 5250 or 5500 or somewhere around there, i dont remember and its been a while since it was all the way up there. if you dont believe me theres another way of telling what you have for stock gears... it says it right on the tag on the rear end cover bolt, it will probably say 2L73 where the L stands for trac-loc. now gears would really help you out in not only letting your car pull harder by multiplying the torque that meets the road, but also it would get you into the correct rpm quicker. but dont jump right into dropping 4.10's in, the 5 spd guys dont have to worry about this, but with the autos... some guys will install them and somehow not run into problems, but most guys will hit the rev limiter before the next shift with a stock trans and tune, so you will have to get an aggressive shift kit, or computer tune to cope with this problem... for this reason just in case you cared, haha im gonna say it anyways ... our cars are designed to shift into the next gear at a certain given rpm as told by the computer. the action to disengage the current gear and engage the next gear takes a small fraction of a second to do so(actually with a stock tune it take a pretty large fraction of a second) now the computer anticipates this delay so the shift occurs at a little higher rpm than when the process is started. now just for a reference lets say the trans take .5 seconds to shift, and the car will climb rpms at a rate of 1000 rpms per second (the shift occurs at 5500 when told to shift at 5k for reference at least... now if you throw in 4.10's which will make yourt rpms climd that much quicker, more rpms go by before completing the shift which results im hitting the rev limiter... so quicken up the speed at which the shifts are made by getting a shift kit or reprogram your comp to tell the trans to shift that much sooner resulting in a shift at the right stock rpm...

4.10's will make the tranny shift too late. 3.73 are ok and 3.90 is pushing it but most guys have problems installing 4.10's with out a chip/tweecer

I installed 4.10's on my car and don't hit the rev limiter under normal conditions. Now, if I have tire spin, it gets stuck on the rev limiter until I back off the throttle. A bolt on only car should be fine with 4.10's and no tune.

from a dead stop and you wot it does it shift fine through all of the gears?