Are all main girdles created equal? discuss

All main girdles do basically the same thing, hold the peices together when the engine blows up.

I have never had any hardcore engine builder tell me that they help.

They say just buy a stronger block.
 
04sleeper said:
All main girdles do basically the same thing, hold the peices together when the engine blows up.

I have never had any hardcore engine builder tell me that they help.

They say just buy a stronger block.
I got the strongest one I could afford.
Ok which one holds the pieces together the best?
 
The only girdle that would be any good is one that to my knowledge, doesn't exist. It would be a one piece forging that had the main bearing caps made as part of it. It would use its own unique oil pan and maybe even a front cover. The bolts for the oil pan would be larger than stock and would hold the outer edges of the one piece cap/girdle/oil sump in place. It would cover and surround the whole bottom end of the engine.

I can see it in my mind, I hope that this is good enough for some of you who have imagination.
 
04sleeper said:
All main girdles do basically the same thing, hold the peices together when the engine blows up.

I have never had any hardcore engine builder tell me that they help.

They say just buy a stronger block.

You saved me some typing.
 
I've talked to Rick about this subject. Some girltles require grinding down on the stock block/caps, which further weakens them. The weakest part of the block is right up the middle where they usually split. Even a 69-74 351Ws will usually break up the middle. The newer blocks arn't good much over the mid 400's in HP and girltles don't seem to help much. What they do is hold the mains togeather, for less crank walk, and hold it togeather when it does come apart. Also, Rick told me that the DSS alumimum tends to dampen harmonics, which is aways good.

In other words, girtles are good, but they arn't a substitute for a stonger block. I look at it this way, after the price of the girltle, all the machine work, your approaching the price of the dart block. I know then you need to get the machine work done to the dart, but at least you'll only have to do this once. So unless your building a mild setup, then it might be better to invest in the better block.
 
Thanks for the input 90mustangGt, I'll look for one that doesn't require the extra machining. I'll get a cheap one too since consensus is it's only good for a lil peace of mind.
Got to admit I hear of the splitting up the middle block alot. Wouldn't this make a Valley girdle make sense?
 
I just spent a fair amount of time doing a search (duh) and my final answer is to buy a canton main support so no machining has to be done to weaken the caps. I will bolt it on before block machining. This won't hurt block strength and will help a lil'. I 'may' also buy the lifter valley girdle. All told if anything $400 is to be able to re-use as many engine components as possible should failure occur.
I will also encase the entire motor in a block of cement and a gigantic vise to hold the cement together. Anyone still reading this???
 
lifter valley girdle is 100% useless, been building small-big and clevelands for 15 years, another gimmick. It's your money though and if you find peace of mind in it, then rock on:flag:
 
pb_paulie_b said:
I just spent a fair amount of time doing a search (duh) and my final answer is to buy a canton main support so no machining has to be done to weaken the caps. I will bolt it on before block machining. This won't hurt block strength and will help a lil'. I 'may' also buy the lifter valley girdle. All told if anything $400 is to be able to re-use as many engine components as possible should failure occur.
I will also encase the entire motor in a block of cement and a gigantic vise to hold the cement together. Anyone still reading this???
Just a thought......dip your block in kevlar right before the cement.:D