Are the TAD/TAB vacuum solenoids NEEDED?

dderek · Jul 22, 2009

I no longer have cats, or a smog pump.. going to keep the EGR.

i have a twEECer so i can disable whatever is needed in the computer.

if i just leave the 2 harnesses unplugged and hanging, and cap off the vacuum lines that are needed
will everything be fine?

also, my car had the vapor canister removed.. the one from the gas tank.. and just had the long vacuum line coiled under my car, THAT i want to put BACK into the car.

is anything needed for that?

85SVOGUY · Jul 22, 2009

I did the same thing with my stock motor, i just plugged off the vacuum lines, and it ran flawlessly. I think you should be A ok.

jrichker · Jul 22, 2009

TAB & TAD solenoid valve eliminators – eliminate codes 81 & 82.
You will still get 44 & 94 codes because the computer looks for a change in the amount of oxygen by checking the O2 sensors when the solenoids are actuated. Actuating the solenoids provides more oxygen in the exhaust, changing the O2 sensor output. No change and you get the 44 & 94 codes.

Don’t do this if you have a catalytic converter H pipe. The catalytic converters must have the air from the smog pump or they will clog up and choke.

See US - Electronic Components Distributor | Newark.com for the resistors to replace the TAB & TAD solenoids

OHMITE|43F82RE|Wirewound Resistor | Newark.com
If the link fails do a search using the part number
82 ohm, 3 watt wirewound resistor, 94 cents each.
Newark P/N 64K8974
Ohmite part # 43F82RE.
Or use the following part number if the first part number isn't available:
OHMITE|23J82RE|Wirewound Resistor - Vitreous | Newark.com
Newark P/N 64K8241
Ohmite part #23J82RE

Pay a visit to your local Radio Shack to get some heat shrink and some crimp on tap terminals. They do not stock the resistors. Or you can use the Ford connector pin kit from AutoZone.

18 gauge crimp on taps Catalog #: 64-3053

Put the resistor inside the heat shrink tubing and crimp the connectors on. I would choose the Ford pin connectors since they should plug in the TAB & TAD wiring. That way you haven't modified the wiring so it is easy to re-install the TAB & TAD solenoids if emissions testing comes to your area.

Two flat pin connectors.
One 82 ohm, 3 watt resistor.
One piece 3/8" heat sink tubing 2" long.
Two pieces 3/16" heat shrink tubing 1 1/2" long.
Solder the pins onto the resistor leads using electrical solder.
Slide the 3/8" heat shrink tubing over the resistor.
Slide the two pieces of 3/16" heat shrink tubing over the two wires, leaving the flat part of the pins uncovered.

It helps to have the resistor leads straight and not bent as shown in the first picture when you apply heat to the heat shrink tubing. That way, the tubing shrinks more evenly.
Finally, apply heat to shrink all the tubing uniformly.

Bend the leads to fit the spacing on the female TAB & TAD connector sockets.

Push the connector pins of the completed resistor assembly into the empty female TAD or TAD connector sockets on the wiring harness. The resistor assemblies replace the missing solenoids: one resistor assembly per solenoid socket.

Do not crimp on the pins and wrap the mess with electrical tape and say you got the idea from me. If you do, and I hear of it, I will say unkind things about your intelligence and family heritage. Do Quality Work!

This information is for informational purposes only and is intended for use only on off road vehicles. It should not be used on any vehicle operated on public roads.

Operating a vehicle modified in such a manner on public roads is a violation of the EPA codes regarding modification of emission controlled vehicles.

dderek · Jul 22, 2009

Cant i use the tweecer to disable it in the computer instead of doing this resistor ****?

my TAB and TAD were never hooked up to anything in the exhaust before, and i wasnt getting codes.
but they were plugged in.. one had a screw in the end of the tube... the other im not sure what it was connected to

jrichker · Jul 22, 2009

dderek said:
Cant i use the tweecer to disable it in the computer instead of doing this resistor ****?

my TAB and TAD were never hooked up to anything in the exhaust before, and i wasnt getting codes.
but they were plugged in.. one had a screw in the end of the tube... the other im not sure what it was connected to

Sure. The resistor trick is for those of us who don't have a Tweecer...

dderek · Jul 22, 2009

jrichker said:
Sure. The resistor trick is for those of us who don't have a Tweecer...

awesome!
thats what i needed to know.

hopefully i can remember how the rest of the vacuum system goes now
and figure out how to put that charcoal canister for the gas tank vapors back in

jrichker · Jul 23, 2009

Some help with the carbon canister...

Charcoal canister plumbing - one 3/8" tube from the bottom of the upper manifold to the rubber hose. Rubber hose connects to one side of the canister solenoid valve. Other side of the solenoid valve connects to one side of the canister. The other side of the canister connects to a rubber hose that connects to a line that goes all the way back to the gas tank. There is an electrical connector coming from the passenger side injector harness near #1 injector that plugs into the canister solenoid valve. It's purpose is to vent the gas tank. The solenoid valve opens at cruse to provide some extra fuel.

Purge valve solenoid:

Carbon Canister:

dcurtis · Jul 23, 2009

When I removed my cats and smog and tab tad completely I got and still get no codes at all, I removed everything but the egr and carbon can

dderek · Jul 26, 2009

Ok im all set on the TAB/TAD solenoids.. just going to ditch them.

now, i have more vacuum questions.. i think the purge solenoid for the charcoal canister gas tank **** was cut out, so ill have to fix that apparently.
As i found 2 wires that were cut down to nothing on the passenger side fuel injector harness.. right near the temp sensor harness... Im guessing those are the correct wires? ill find the solenoid from somewhere and compare wire colors.

But, Now.

I know one of those is the vacuum resovoir.. pretty sure its the round one, but whats the cylinder shaped one for?

Also, what is this solenoid?

Whats it connect to? Is it needed?
Im pretty sure either the green or red one.. whichever was longer, goes to the EGR on the throttle body, and im THINKING the other one went to the port with the TAB/TAD soleoid tree pictured below.. but its been years since i had this car together, so i cant honestly remember.
If so, i guess ill just cap that end off, right?

TenorPlayinGuy · Jul 26, 2009

Arent those the TAB/TAD solenoids? or are you referring to the piece plumbed and bolted after the reservoir?

jrichker · Jul 26, 2009

The following diagram is for an 88 Mustang. The vacuum systems are the same from 87-93 with the excepion of the MAP vaccum line on Speed Density cars.

Evidently one vacuum reserve tank is for the emissions control system and the other is for the HVAC system.

Diagrams courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds

dderek · Jul 26, 2009

wow! $100 for a new charcoal canister at 50resto.
i guess ill be getting a used one

I also confirmed one of my own answers, sort of.
still not sure where the other end leads to

but this is "86-93 EGR VACUUM SOLENOID, 5.0L"

TenorPlayinGuy · Jul 26, 2009

Oh the last photo, yes that is for the EGR isnt it?

dderek · Jul 26, 2009

so im guessing the green tube runs to the EGR on the throttle body...
and the red tube USE to run to the TAB/TAD tree?
so ill just cap the red tree?

also, im unsure what the cylinder shaped thing in the first picture is

dderek · Jul 26, 2009

TenorPlayinGuy said:
Oh the last photo, yes that is for the EGR isnt it?

yep.. thats for the EGR..
i guess ive answered most of my own questions

im just curious what the thing in the first picture is
the round ball, im 90% sure is the vacuum resovior.

but the other thing, in front of it closer to the nose of the car
no idea what that is.
but all this stems off of it i guess

oh ok, ones for the a/c
and ones just a resevoir.
so the diagram says.

i guess all my vacuum issues should be solved. thanks guys
hopefully

66COUP · Sep 13, 2016

Does anyone have the images of what the tab tad solenoid eliminators look like? Looks like the image links are gone since the original post is 7 years old. I bought the resistors 7 years ago, I am just now getting around to this. Thanks.

jrichker · Sep 13, 2016

66COUP said:
Does anyone have the images of what the tab tad solenoid eliminators look like? Looks like the image links are gone since the original post is 7 years old. I bought the resistors 7 years ago, I am just now getting around to this. Thanks.

I am the guy who created that particular mess, and there is nothing to them except some heat shrink tubing, a 5 watt or 3 watt 50 to 82 Ohm resistor and the 2 crimp on tabs that plug into the solenoid wiring harness. None of the stuff is polarity sensitive and the main concern is to keep from exposing any bare metal parts of the assembled resistor pack. That's what the heat shrink tubing is for.

66COUP · Sep 16, 2016

Thanks, I appreciate it.

Are the TAD/TAB vacuum solenoids NEEDED?

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