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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
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ARP main studs hit oil pump! help

  • Thread starter Thread starter twolo4u2c2
  • Start date Start date Jan 10, 2007

twolo4u2c2

5 Year Member
Apr 10, 2003
330
6
29
reading, PA
Jan 10, 2007
#1
  • Jan 10, 2007
  • #1
I got a set of ARP main studs and main support(girdle) for my 347 and the stud right at the oil pump hits the pump.(stud is to long.) Is there a cure . and why does this happen. I cant be the only one with this? ....can i cut it? All the studs are the same length as well.


thanks
 

twolo4u2c2

5 Year Member
Apr 10, 2003
330
6
29
reading, PA
Jan 10, 2007
#2
  • Jan 10, 2007
  • #2
bump
 

donsbad68

Immensely Educated
Jan 4, 2003
838
0
0
Oklahoma
Jan 10, 2007
#3
  • Jan 10, 2007
  • #3
pics?
 

twolo4u2c2

5 Year Member
Apr 10, 2003
330
6
29
reading, PA
Jan 10, 2007
#4
  • Jan 10, 2007
  • #4
pic of the problem

 

txstang84

15 Year Member
May 21, 2005
1,639
42
69
Tuscola, tx
Jan 10, 2007
#5
  • Jan 10, 2007
  • #5
This may be a dumb question, but are the studs fully seated in the block?
 

twolo4u2c2

5 Year Member
Apr 10, 2003
330
6
29
reading, PA
Jan 11, 2007
#6
  • Jan 11, 2007
  • #6
yes.....fully seated.
 
3

347blown

New Member
Dec 29, 2006
7
0
0
NJ
Jan 11, 2007
#7
  • Jan 11, 2007
  • #7
I grinded mine down, also grinded the pump a little to, also had to grind the nut, I also seen some pics where they put a 12 point nut there, it looks smaller then the 6 point nuts. Or u can use the regular bolt with no problems.
 

Markus

Member
Feb 29, 2004
238
2
19
germany
Jan 11, 2007
#8
  • Jan 11, 2007
  • #8
Hello guys,

with a main girdle is that a absolute normal problem.
I had the same problem, but with main bolts instead of main
studs. Don´t grind the studs !! Only the pump.

before:
http://212.227.100.192/mustang/pump1.jpg
http://212.227.100.192/mustang/pump2.jpg

after:
http://212.227.100.192/mustang/pump3.jpg
http://212.227.100.192/mustang/pump4.jpg

Markus
 

twolo4u2c2

5 Year Member
Apr 10, 2003
330
6
29
reading, PA
Jan 11, 2007
#9
  • Jan 11, 2007
  • #9
is it thick enough to grind off.....i'd hate to break thru.
 

twolo4u2c2

5 Year Member
Apr 10, 2003
330
6
29
reading, PA
Jan 11, 2007
#10
  • Jan 11, 2007
  • #10
I have the 12 point nut that came witht the girdle BUT its real thin and I dont trust it. Id rather use the arp nut just grind it a little.
 

Italian-LX

Member
Dec 9, 2002
970
0
16
Anniston, AL
Jan 11, 2007
#11
  • Jan 11, 2007
  • #11
I have a Canton girdle on my 418w and they actually tell you that you may need to grind on the pump to make it fit (if you use a high-volume pump).

I had to take metal off the area that Markus showed above, and I had to grind down the gussets on the side of the mounting arm. Also, I didn't install the ARP washer on that particular bolt.

Apparently, this is a common issue, as my friend had to grind down the top of his bolt to make a std-volume pump work with his canton girdle on his 306.
 

thehueypilot

Active Member
Feb 25, 2004
1,084
0
37
Medina,Tennessee
Jan 11, 2007
#12
  • Jan 11, 2007
  • #12
As long as all the threads are fully engaged in the nut you can cut off the end of the stud. Any threads that stick out above the nut are not really needed.
 

twolo4u2c2

5 Year Member
Apr 10, 2003
330
6
29
reading, PA
Jan 11, 2007
#13
  • Jan 11, 2007
  • #13
I think I'll trim off the top of the stud and use the beefy ARP nut. I will feel better doing that than grinding the pump.

thanks for all the input. I knew I could count on the stangnet crew.:SNSign:
 
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