Attention All Cobra Intake Manifold Owners!

[1FaStMcLAREN]

Hello to all!!

Im getting ready to swap engines on my 89Gt, but before i start with all accesories, i would like to ask for a little help if i could get any.

Parts include:
24# injectors
granatelli mass air
bbk cold air intake
holley 255lph fuel pump
bbk fuel pressure regulator
cobra intake manifold
long tube headers
x pipe
2 chamber flowmasters
3.73 gears would come a little later with 5 lug conversion

-the cobra manifold bolt for the bottom could be the same ones off my stock intake right? What about the top manifold bolts? does anybody know the sizes?
or can i get them at a ford dealer?

-what should be the right throttle body? 65mm or 70mm? The intake opening is a 65mm right? would it change if i get a bigger TB than the opening?

-by the way the granatelli mass air is calibrated for 19#.. am i able to get it calibrated to 24#s.. or i need a new one?

What else do you suggest to be done while in the process of swaping the engine?

Any comments would be greatly appreciated!

sorry for the long questions.

 

[Black 93 Fox]

Do all the gaskets on the motor clean it up while its out. Get all that little stuff you think you'll do later but wont. Once that motor is in its alot harder to work on.

 

[z9_87]

didn't see heads on your list, might as well do it while you have the intake off.

 

[jrichker]

The lower manifold bolts are the same. The uppers are probably different.Since the are a low strength bolt that screws into aluminum, you could use threaded rod from Home Depot or Lowes and cut it to fit.

The 24# injectors are a little too big for an engine without heads & a cam. The 19# would be a better match for your current setup.

For street use on your current tune, a 65 MM TB is your best choice for low end torque and snappy pick up.

Vacuum line connections:
One large vacuum line from the upper front goes to the carbon canister

One large vacuum line from the rear goes to the vacuum tree.

One small line in the front feeds the Smog pump solenoid control valves on the rear of the passenger side wheel well..

One small line in the rear goes to the fuel pressure regulator.

One small line in the rear goes to the EGR suction regulator.

One large line in the rear goes to the PVC valve.

My favorite trick that saves time and effort is the stay in place gasket. Be sure that you scrape (don't use a wire brush) all the old gasket material off, then clean all the surfaces with acetone or MEK.

When the surfaces are clean, use weather strip adhesive on the head to manifold surface, and on the side of the gasket that mates to the head. Follow the instructions on the tube or can and when it gets tacky, press the gasket down on the head.

Clean the area where the rubber rails mount to the block in front and in the rear with more acetone or MEK and do the same trick with the weather strip adhesive that you did to the heads.

Coat the rubber seals and the gasket area around the water passages with lots of Blue Silicone gasket sealer and put it together. Wala! no leaks, and no gaskets that shifted out of place.

If you reuse the injectors from your old setup, a repair kit is available from most auto parts stores if needed. Coat the injector body "O" rings with oil before you use them and everything will slide back together. Take the other advice you got here and run with it.

Fuel injector seal kits with 2 O rings and a pintle cap (Borg-Warner P/N 274081) are available at Pep Boys auto parts. Cost is about $2.74 per kit. The following are listed at the Borg-Warner site ( http://www.borg-warner.com ) as being resellers of Borg-Warner parts:

http://www.partsplus.com/ or http://www.autovalue.com/ or http://www.pepboys.com/ or http://www.federatedautoparts.com/

Most of the links above have store locators for find a store in your area.

Use motor oil on the O rings when you re-assemble them & everything will slide into place. The gasoline will wash away any excess oil that gets in the wrong places and it will burn up in the combustion chamber.

 

[tmoss]

The long bolts from the stock intake (edit)cannot be used - and you need 4 for that intake. Yes, Ford dealers sell the bolts but they are a little pricey. I paid $6 for 2 of them.

 

[legalize420]

i just ordered the bolts from oemfordparts.com . the bolts from home depot break to easy. i could not use my stock bolts. they were not long enough.

 

[legalize420]

now that i think about it you can use 2 of the bolts. the two little ones

 

[Black331Stang]

i can chime in for one part, the cobra intake opening is 70mm not 65. but i 65mm TB should be fine to use

 

[mondos90lx]

id say ditch the cold air and just remove air silencer and put a K&N in there and with the saved money get pulleys or an a/c delete or both

 

[legalize420]

i can chime in for one part, the cobra intake opening is 70mm not 65. but i 65mm TB should be fine to use

i agree. i am going back to a 65. i bought the cobra intake with the 70 but on stock heads and no power adder its not a match. go with the 65.

 

[txstang84]

...bring along a couple of good friends, one to help, one to heckle
junk food of different kinds (hey you're gonna ge the muchies
maybe a beer or two...or 12 (ya know, if you like beer)
engine degreaser
carb or brake parts cleaner
lots of rags...

probably wouldn't hurt to get a new t-stat...180* if you haven't already

and like jrichker mentioned sealants for sealing it all up right when you go to put it all back together

 

[1FaStMcLAREN]

thanks guys for all the help, it's all appreciated. Yeah i forgot to mention that i already have the a/c delete kit, and pulleys. so i should be fine with the 65 rite? should i still have the 255lph fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator? might i want to add that this engine is really strong, for some reason ford made this engine beefy. lol. this is the way i got it from my friend.

 

[1FaStMcLAREN]

ohhh, man i keep on forgetting everything i have, i also have a stage 2 centerforce clutch, if that matters.

 

[18mustangs]

Lower intake bolts are the same, upper intake bolts are as follows:
stud: 5\16-18 x 1.62 (need 1)
bolt: 5\16-18 x 6.07 (need 2)
bolt: 5\16 x 6.85 (need 2)
bolt: 5\16 x 1.62 (need 1)
throttle body stud: 5\16 x 1.75 (need 4)
EGR studs: 5\16-18, and 3\8-16 (need 1 each)

Tim

 

[1FaStMcLAREN]

thanks everybody for all your help

 

[TenorPlayinGuy]

sweet I'm doing the same setup with a set of TrickFlow TW, 93 Cobra intake(with ported Lower) 70mm TB, 24# injectors... etc etc.

just waiting on the darn 347 to ship in. Street fighter anyone?