audio question, speaker wire, whitch is negative..

do you have an aftermarket wire harness that connects to your factory harness and then your head unit? if so there should be 4 sets of wires (white, white w/black stripe, Green, Green with black stripe, Purple, purple with black stripe, and brown, brown with black stripe)

or did someone just splice into the facotry wires behind the actual harness making it look like a gehto rig?

what brand of aftermarket head unit do you have?


I dont remember the brand, maybe jenseng, but I have the harnesses set up, no splicing behind there.
 
http://www.installer-parts.com/wires/index.html

go to that link it will tell you what wire does what


run a short lead to your speaker and just test that your headunits amp is not shorted out, it sounds like you have everything hooked up right so you might have shorted out the amp in the head unit

btw, running new wires from the rear is easy just take off one side of trim run the wires under the rear seat and then run both sets (right and left) downt he same side up to your head unit
 
OK so something weird just happened. I pulled on the passenger side set of speaker wires and it just pulled right out, not connected to anything, it was probably 3 feet long. I tested a speaker on the driver side set of wires and that speaker works. WHAT!?!
 
OK so something weird just happened. I pulled on the passenger side set of speakers and it just pulled right out, not connected to anything, it was probably 3 feet long. I tested a speaker on the driver side set of wires and that speaker works. WHAT!?!

Are you sure that your not working on a chevy?

I assume your the orignal owner of your 5.0 ( thats a joke)
someone has been cutting wires. use the diagram in that link I sent your and run a new wire up front and your day will be over.
 
haha damn its weird cause all the stuff was stock when I got the car audio wise, and all these wires look like the stock ones. Ill try and use that chart though and I'll get new wires I guess for just the passenger side haha.

That chart you gave me works for my headunit, I found those wires, so Im gonna run up to my work and get some speaker wire and use their tools. Thanks guys.
 
I always wanted to go there and get my whole car done up like a rock star and then come back a week later and return all the goods....... I wonder what they would do?
 
If I recall correctly, ford has a common ground for the speakers. As is you would have 4 positives, and 1 ground. Because of this, it is recommended to rewire the speakers. Also, if you have the polarity correct on one speaker and reversed on the other, you will have a noticible reduction in sound quality. The two speakers will cancel each other out because 1 is going in st the same time the other is going out. This is most noticible with subwoofers.
 
Here's what crutchfield has to say on the subject.
The 80s
Starting in 1984, select Mustangs used an amp, separate from the in-dash receiver's amp, to power the back speakers. If you install a new receiver in these models, you'll need to either bypass the amp, or purchase a special adapter that allows you to continue to use it. If you want the best performance, bypassing is the best way to go. Aftermarket receivers have considerably better internal amplifiers than the external one installed in the Ford; your sound will be much better when you bypass the stock amp.

If you're confused about whether or not your particular Mustang has an amp, Crutchfield can help. Just give one of our expert Product Advisors a call at 1-888-955-6000. If you know your Mustang's system layout, go to Crutchfield.com and click on the "What Fits My Car?" tab. Plug in the particulars about your car and our on-line Vehicle Selector will sort through the entire lineup of components to show you what receivers and speakers will fit the factory locations.

In 1988, the speaker layout for the Mustang was updated, with some models featuring 3-1/2" dash, 6-1/2" door and 6"x8" rear deck speakers as an upgrade from the 3-1/2" dash and 6"x8" rear deck configuration. Installation of a new receiver in the six speaker models involves bypassing the amplifier. If you purchase the receiver from Crutchfield, we'll provide a bypass harness for free. The models with four-speaker systems have no external amp.

The 90s
As we saw in the 1980s, some 'Stangs in the 90s were equipped with upgraded factory systems that have external amps. If you want the best possible sound, bypass the amps and use your new receiver's power.

In 1995, Ford introduced the Mach 460 sound system. The system features three separate amplifiers, driving a total of eight speakers. Four 6"x8" woofers located front and rear drive the bass and mid-bass, with four tweeters, also front and rear, handling the highs. Integration of new equipment into a Mach 460 system can be complicated. New receivers can be installed and connected with the use of a special adapter that allows you to continue to use the existing amps and speakers. Speaker replacement is problematic, since aftermarket 6"x8" speakers are usually full-range speakers. If you're thinking about a complete change of the in-dash receiver and speakers, it's best to rewire directly from the new receiver to the new speakers (or from an aftermarket amplifier to the new speakers).

If your Mustang doesn't have the Mach 460 system, installation is much less complicated. These cars do not have the separate woofer/tweeter speaker set-up that you'll find on the Mach 460-equipped vehicles. You can install 6"x8" speakers front and back, and plenty of aftermarket models are available that offer vastly-improved sound and a direct fit. Some Mustangs without the Mach 460 system (particularly 1996 and up models with cassette) do have amps; your options are similar to what we saw in the 1980s — purchase an adapter or bypass the amp (an easy proposition with a bypass harness.
 
Not sure if it will help in your situation, as I am still a little confused as to what you are asking and what you have done, but here is some an installer trick you might not know.

If you have the speakers hooked up and you are at the radio or amp and are unsure as to which wire is positive and negative, as some speaker wire is not identifiable. Take a 9v battery and place the positive of the battery to one wire and negative to the other. If the speaker moves out those are correct positive and negative. If it moves in they are reversed.