Auto to 5 spd. help please
- Thread starter schug4
- Start date
I think you need a diffrent drive shaft cuz I tried to put an automatic drive shaft up against my t5 (they looked the same and I got them confused)and it was too long by a little bit. I almost got it in there by jacking up the trans but im glad i didnt cuz that would probally not have been good lol.
the drive shafts are the same, i just got done with my conversion a couple hours ago, what you need are:
trans
bellhousing
clutch fork
clutch kit
cable
crossmember (auto and stick share the same crossmember, its just tack welded on to different spots on the rails, i just ground out those welds)
pedal assembly
console parts (trim ring, shfit boot, knob, etc)
if you do a search theres plenty of info out there on how to do it. it wasnt all that hard, a bit of heavy lifting, getting the pedals in and out is one of the harder things to do.
trans
bellhousing
clutch fork
clutch kit
cable
crossmember (auto and stick share the same crossmember, its just tack welded on to different spots on the rails, i just ground out those welds)
pedal assembly
console parts (trim ring, shfit boot, knob, etc)
if you do a search theres plenty of info out there on how to do it. it wasnt all that hard, a bit of heavy lifting, getting the pedals in and out is one of the harder things to do.
It's been a while now, but I've done a billion mustang clutch jobs. I seem to remember it taking a sat.
however, approach this in two stages.
the first weekend install the clutch pedals. It won't take the entire weekend, but it'll take long enough to completely throw off your sched on the rest of the stuff enough to make a sun deadline difficult.
the next weekend, lose the aod, pull the center console, lose the shifter assembly...fyi I cut it up/bent it, mutuatled it to pull it out. don't waste your time trying to pull it out as a complete assmbly, that'll take too much time.
if you have all your stuff lined up, it'll take maybe a couple more hours than a normal clutch job would, and that's just because you've got to remove the aod lines and shifter.
it's absolutely necessary to have EVERYTHING lined up and ready, or you're gonna blow your deadline.
some specifics to keep in mind that will completely mess you up if you're not prepared.
1. metric pressure plate bolts. frpp sells a cheap kit, less than $10, pick them up from summit
2. get NEW flywheel bolts. at 85 pounds of torque, it's cheap insurance. FYI, the automatic flywheel bolts are shorter, so be sure to run the manual ones, or the arp ones. arp ones less than $10 at summit
3. the top two bell housing bolts on your aod are too long. have a stack of washers ready to take up the slack, or a cutoff wheel to shorten the bolt.
4. get all the tiny stuff such as the clutch cable clip, the clutch cable, and even stupid stuff you may overlook like the shifter to trans bolts
5. if you want to be extra prepared, buyfordracing.com has a NEW HD clutch fork and oem clutch cable for under $50 to your door.
6. if you haven't had too many manuals b4, break in your clutch for 500 miles, which means NO full throttle from a stop or even while in motion, this is VERY important unless you enjoy clutch jobs.
however, approach this in two stages.
the first weekend install the clutch pedals. It won't take the entire weekend, but it'll take long enough to completely throw off your sched on the rest of the stuff enough to make a sun deadline difficult.
the next weekend, lose the aod, pull the center console, lose the shifter assembly...fyi I cut it up/bent it, mutuatled it to pull it out. don't waste your time trying to pull it out as a complete assmbly, that'll take too much time.
if you have all your stuff lined up, it'll take maybe a couple more hours than a normal clutch job would, and that's just because you've got to remove the aod lines and shifter.
it's absolutely necessary to have EVERYTHING lined up and ready, or you're gonna blow your deadline.
some specifics to keep in mind that will completely mess you up if you're not prepared.
1. metric pressure plate bolts. frpp sells a cheap kit, less than $10, pick them up from summit
2. get NEW flywheel bolts. at 85 pounds of torque, it's cheap insurance. FYI, the automatic flywheel bolts are shorter, so be sure to run the manual ones, or the arp ones. arp ones less than $10 at summit
3. the top two bell housing bolts on your aod are too long. have a stack of washers ready to take up the slack, or a cutoff wheel to shorten the bolt.
4. get all the tiny stuff such as the clutch cable clip, the clutch cable, and even stupid stuff you may overlook like the shifter to trans bolts
5. if you want to be extra prepared, buyfordracing.com has a NEW HD clutch fork and oem clutch cable for under $50 to your door.
6. if you haven't had too many manuals b4, break in your clutch for 500 miles, which means NO full throttle from a stop or even while in motion, this is VERY important unless you enjoy clutch jobs.
i started mine friday and just finished today (i had 3 vacation days to use by june, seemed like a good time). fbd is about right on everything, i didnt have to remove the console to get the old shifter out, but i did use the trusty cutoff tool to get rid of the cable bracket thats riveted to it. also, while youre in there id get rid of the stock quadrant, i got a steeda double hook billet aluminum piece and it was much easier to install out of the car than in, my fat hands barely got in enough to get the cable hooked on.
Don't forget to re-route the speedo cable.
I did mine a month or so ago and it went pretty smoothly, except I misplaced my T5 insulator
(found it weeks later) I was able to use the AOD crossmember with the auto insulator, no prob's with it so far. I stuck the AOD driveshaft in too with no ill effects.
Oh and it wasn't just my top bolts that were too long, I had to put washers on some of the other ones too
I cut my tranny cooler lines, started to try and wiggle them out and decided I was never going back to auto
I didn't need to change the EEC either, my car has an A9P and it runs fine. I get to save the A9L for my '66 Coupe project
I did mine a month or so ago and it went pretty smoothly, except I misplaced my T5 insulator
(found it weeks later) I was able to use the AOD crossmember with the auto insulator, no prob's with it so far. I stuck the AOD driveshaft in too with no ill effects.Oh and it wasn't just my top bolts that were too long, I had to put washers on some of the other ones too
I cut my tranny cooler lines, started to try and wiggle them out and decided I was never going back to auto
I didn't need to change the EEC either, my car has an A9P and it runs fine. I get to save the A9L for my '66 Coupe project
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